LokSound install in Kato N scale SD40-2 early/snoot mechanism

[nightmare0331]

Greetings!

Here is a relatively quick down and dirty installation of a LokSound 73100 select direct in a Kato N SD40-2 mechanism.

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The clips and rear SMLED is from a scrap SD70ace board (I have lots of these floating around so I use what I have).  The clips are trimmed, bent and soldered in place. The speaker is a Soberton SP1508 speaker with a 3d printed housing.  The front LED is from a current run of ES44AC's but that isn't so much important as 1. it was what I have lots of and 2. the color looks okay to me.  Leads are just scrap wire.

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Basically, two areas need to be milled down to clear the decoder along with a bit of dremel work to cut slots in the rear tabs and cut the front decoder/light board tabs at a 45 degree angle.  Photo B shows where to mill.

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From front to back- milled frame, milled frame with decoder being test fit along with speaker housing and behind it, a stock SD40-2 early mechanism.

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Mechanism completely assembled.  It's tight, but everything fits with the shell on.  I was thinking there may be some issues with the surface mount caps clearing and I might have to do some interior scraping, but it fits, so I'm rolling with it.

Anyhow.  I hope this helps someone out.  And if not, thanks for looking and have a fantastic day. 

Enjoy!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

[samusi01]

What technique do you use to ensure the motor clips end up in the right place laterally? Tried this and made a mess of it, so I ended up just using wire from the motor to the board, but I'd like to find out how you get the spacing correct.

Thanks

[peteski]

Nice install Kelley!  Not surprising since you have done hundreds (or possibly thousands) of customer sound installs in Kato locos. 
But where it the speaker enclosure?  Looks pretty much non-existent. There still seem to be some daylight between the top of the speaker and the decoder.

[nightmare0331]

What technique do you use to ensure the motor clips end up in the right place laterally? Tried this and made a mess of it, so I ended up just using wire from the motor to the board, but I'd like to find out how you get the spacing correct.

Thanks

This picture may explain it a bit better...

Start by cutting the clip with a photo etch cutter.  Take off one side at a 45 degree angle like so.  After that cut, use a set of needle nose pliers to gently bend them into shape.

With the 73100 (like here) you need two that are modified in the same way...they get flipped due to solder pad locations for the motor lead.  for the 73199 like I use on the SD70M/SD70ACe, you need two mirrored pieces.  On the leads for the 73199's you will need to shorten the small leg approximately a mm or so.  I usually just eyeball it, but then again, I've done thousands.

Tin and solder in place (you are using flux, aren't you ).  I also solder in any additional leads and LED's at this time.  Then gently make any final adjustments to the contact shapes.

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Does this answer your question?

Enjoy!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

[nightmare0331]

Nice install Kelley!  Not surprising since you have done hundreds (or possibly thousands) of customer sound installs in Kato locos. 
But where it the speaker enclosure?  Looks pretty much non-existent. There still seem to be some daylight between the top of the speaker and the decoder.

Thanks Peteski. 

We're well in the thousands category, but that's another story for another day. 

As for the speaker enclosure...there are several things going on.  1.  can't make it much taller in this application...once the mechanism is together, I put a small piece of electrical tape that the speaker is then glued to.  Since it has to fit underneath the board, plus there are leads coming off the bottom and the top of the speaker is metal, there needs to be a slight gap.  I actually ended up sanding the bottom of the speaker housing down a hair to make everything fit nice and snug.

I suppose I could have designed a new speaker housing that was offset like Keystone Customs (see?  I do read other threads here.  )  But..in keeping with using what I already had, these are the same speakers and housings that I know work well and already had onhand that have gotten dropped into thousands of locos.  *If* I had time and had more than the occasional one off to do on this model (this was just to see if it would fit...not because I actually had to make any) I suppose I could design an offset speaker housing in Fusion360 and print up a few new housings and mess around with it.  This would actually allow me to throw a mount or support for the rear SMLED on there also if I was so inclined.

Side note, it's actually hard to see the 3d housing and speaker because I was printing them in black for the longest time.  I printed some in white, and they are visible in the photo of the previous post.

Anywhoo...remember what you paid for this tutorial, and hope it helps someone. 

Enjoy!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

[Mark5]

Damn good. Is that your own 3d speaker design? Can you share?

[peteski]

Thanks for the explanation Kelley. Yes, there seem to be some empty space behind the speaker, and we always strive for the largest volume enclosures, but if what you have works for you - ship it!   

[samusi01]

Does this answer your question?

Yes, it does. Thanks for taking the time to explain. I'll have to try this next time I install a Loksound in one of my Katos.

Sam

[kondor]

What perfect timing. I just got my first SD40-2 snoot last week, and I'll be doing a similar install.
Thank you!

[nightmare0331]

Damn good. Is that your own 3d speaker design? Can you share?

Sure.  It's nothing fancy.

It won't let me upload a .stl file so shoot me with a PM with your email address.

Conversely, if someone doesn't have a 3D printer and wants any of the 3D housings I made for the SP1508's, they're a whopping $1.25 apiece from me (minimum of 5, free shipping in the US).  Consider it my beer fund.  haha.  (housing only, does not include speaker)

Enjoy!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

[jdcolombo]

Amazing work, Kelley.  I'll add this to the master list of decoder installs.

John C.

[jmc13bnsf]

Greetings.

I thiught I had found the solution to my problem but I am afraid not.  The board you are using is the first generation Loksound Select Direct Micro.  The next generation is quite different underneath.

[Wolf N Works]

Boards are the same generation but are config differently for different manufacturer frames. The one you posted is for the newer Intermountain SD40-2s

[jdcolombo]

Greetings.

I thiught I had found the solution to my problem but I am afraid not.  The board you are using is the first generation Loksound Select Direct Micro.  The next generation is quite different underneath.

As Wolf N Works points out, two different boards.  The 73199, which you have posted the photo of, is for the Intermountain SD40-2 (and maybe other Intermountain locos).  The 73100, which is what Kelley is using, was made to fit Atlas frames, but can be used with other manufacturers' models with appropriate frame mods, like what Kelley has done. 

John C.

[jmc13bnsf]

Greetings.

I stand corrected.

My apologies for mixing the two boards up.