Weekend Update 3/29/20

[u18b]

DKS,

I like how your feeder wires are soldered on the underside so that the are hidden by the ballast.
That's how I do it.  Just more aesthetically pleasing- even though it might be a little harder.

[hegstad1]

Returning to an older project.  A needed to make loading platforms for the Missoula freight house.  There are many mini projects for this building to finish it up.  Railings for steps, light fixtures, roof supports, etc. 

[John]

Leased D&RGW C-19 #345 rounds Windy Point with a short consist:

I think you nailed it

[fcnrwy23]

The FCN saw some much need attention the past two weekends.
I finaly got around to replacing the "Tube Lights" that have lit the layout from the begining.
The local Home Improvement store had a sale on LEDs, some weeks ago .  5000 Lumens versions...  sooo..





The layout is now a lot brighter than it has been.  But, the LEDS are single bulb versions.  I went from (10) fluorescents to (12) LEDs.  I still will be doing some adjustments.  Like adding some shade extensions in some locations...

Jerry G.

[jereising]

Oakville is active - an Amtrak detour has run around an earthworm and returns to the WB main at Caliente...



3 months left...

[johnb]

looks like I am going to be violating Rule G

[thomasjmdavis]

The FCN saw some much need attention the past two weekends.
I finaly got around to replacing the "Tube Lights" that have lit the layout from the begining.
The local Home Improvement store had a sale on LEDs, some weeks ago .  5000 Lumens versions...  sooo..



The layout is now a lot brighter than it has been.  But, the LEDS are single bulb versions.  I went from (10) fluorescents to (12) LEDs.  I still will be doing some adjustments.  Like adding some shade extensions in some locations...

Jerry G.

@fcnrwy23 - I really like the way that looks.  I have been going at basement remodeling in fits and starts (mostly fits) and running up against "budget constraints" because we have an old farmhouse, and roof and plumbing and whatnot get in the way of affording a major basement remodel.  But your approach - clean it up, paint the block, install "sky" only where you need it (instead of drywalling the whole space) seems do-able as a spring project, without needing to hire a contractor.  What material did you use for the "sky"?  (noting the curved corner)

[fcnrwy23]

Tom D.

The sky is (I had to go measure it!  )  1/8 inch thick "hardboard", glossy smooth on one side, textured on the other.    Out of a 4 x 8 foot sheet (48 x 96 inches), the sizes are 16 or 24 inches in height, 96 inches in length.  This will give you, either 3 or 2 pieces per sheet. It will flex (bend) to a certain extent.  Just make sure you have enough fasteners (screws) space evenly.

One other trick.  It was suggested to me to paint the floor, "one block" up the wall.  This helps hide any uneven floor... 


Jerry G.

[rickb773]

I’m sure this is meaningless to most of you but to me this is a major milestone: I finally got 3 of the Pennsy signals I have had for 40+ years wired. They were on my old layout unwired and on my current layout in their current (prototypical) positions for almost 10 years. They are grossly oversized but I still like them.

1)   The old signals have 5 wire leads. One common and one each for the center (1 bulb), vertical (2 bulbs), diagonal (2), and horizontal (3) (includes the lower post bulb also). I currently have them wired to an Atlas selector which means I have to turn on the center bulb and also chose another aspect to turn on. Can someone tell me what kind of switch (how many poles; [4 throws (off/vertical/diagonal/horizontal)]) and how to wire the center light to come on with vertical/diagonal/horizontal positions without shorting and turning on all bulbs?) (@peteski where are you when I need you?)

2)   While I am at it: How do you hook up and control the newer LED version? It has 3 wires (1 with a resistor). How do you change positions and what kind of switch do you need? The instructions that came with it are pretty useless.

3)   And while I am asking is there a circuit that would show where adjoining block of separate throttles are both aligned to the same direction (vertical); aligned to opposite directions (horizontal) or one side off (diagonal)? All using track power (I do not have block sensors. It is a DC layout.)

I still have 2 old and 3 new signals that need to find a home on the layout

[SkipGear]

Trim work is done on the station for now. There is supposed to be a cove molding where the roof meets the building but adding that throws off the proportion of the band around the top. I may just get frustrated enough to raise the roof .030" so I can add the molding, then again, I may not. I'm pretty sure you won't be able to see any of the trim under the eaves when it is on the layout anyhow.

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Edit - Forgot to add this shot. The roof is removable so I can eventually add interior and lighting. My problem is finding an actual picture or floor plan of the building when it was a station. The station is currently being used as a retail store for Joggers/Runners and has been completely remodeled inside.

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[peteski]

I’m sure this is meaningless to most of you but to me this is a major milestone: I finally got 3 of the Pennsy signals I have had for 40+ years wired. They were on my old layout unwired and on my current layout in their current (prototypical) positions for almost 10 years. They are grossly oversized but I still like them.

1)   The old signals have 5 wire leads. One common and one each for the center (1 bulb), vertical (2 bulbs), diagonal (2), and horizontal (3) (includes the lower post bulb also). I currently have them wired to an Atlas selector which means I have to turn on the center bulb and also chose another aspect to turn on. Can someone tell me what kind of switch (how many poles; [4 throws (off/vertical/diagonal/horizontal)]) and how to wire the center light to come on with vertical/diagonal/horizontal positions without shorting and turning on all bulbs?) (@peteski where are you when I need you?)

I'm here and ready to this on. Look in the Electronics/DCC forum (in few minutes from now). 

[Mike Madonna]

The FCN saw some much need attention the past two weekends.
I finaly got around to replacing the "Tube Lights" that have lit the layout from the begining.
The local Home Improvement store had a sale on LEDs, some weeks ago .  5000 Lumens versions...  sooo..





The layout is now a lot brighter than it has been.  But, the LEDS are single bulb versions.  I went from (10) fluorescents to (12) LEDs.  I still will be doing some adjustments.  Like adding some shade extensions in some locations...

Jerry G.

Jerry,
Good light is key, marked improvement!
Do you have a build thread?
Thanks!

[u18b]

Here is two week's worth for me.

I continue to make slow progress on the next EP-2.  Painted the red on the sand boxes.   I know it sounds crazy, but that red is a couple of hours work carefully masking. 



I finally got around to starting the process of patching my 3 GP39-2s.
I started with the easiest one- the D&H classic scheme.


I chose this road number because all of the heralds were intact.



I started with a stock unit.



I then used a #11 knife to scratch off the cab heralds and the road number on the body.
CSX decals added.
Then airbrushed with a very thin white to make the paint look old.
Then weathering with chalk to completed the model.


Body shell doesn't want to go down on this side.  Got to check that out.




Now just two more to go.


Also, one evening I was virus-bored.   So I remembered a loco I had in parts somewhere.
Some of you will remember this thread:  https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=40776.0

And this locomotive drawing.  Inspired by the nutty creative things people did in Mexico.


I had already built this (undec) years ago- but needed the parts for some reason.    All I still had in my parts box was the undec portion below.   So I gave it a chassis and a body shell, putting it back together.
Some day, it will get a paint job (though I have to make some decals for it first).

[BCRail_FSJ]

I just completed basic ground texture and ballast for the whole of Fort St John yard.    None of my previous layouts ever got to the ballasting stage so this feels like a major accomplishment.   Standard Woodland Scenics fine grey ballast was used throughout.  The ground texture is a blend of grey and buff tile grout with a pinch of ground foam.  Dirt tracks, gravel lots, grass, scrub and hay field textures will be added over the next few months.

[nkalanaga]

Nate:  You're welcome!  Given the age of the body casting, anything more complicated would be overkill, and it seemed to be in keeping with the recent "retro" trend.

WM3798:  I also have one of those PRR hoppers, original, from about 50 years ago.  Except for body-mounted KD (pre-MT) couplers and an ACI label, it's basically stock.  It has been heavily weathered, though, and I wouldn't recommend the method.  At some point I brush-painted it black with Polly Scale paint, probably 40 years ago, and relettered it with dry transfers.  No, I don't remember what the lettering was.  Then, later, I stripped that off, leaving the original lettering, looking rather faded and worn.  It looks good, but I wouldn't dare try to duplicate it!