Author Topic: Best Of The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread  (Read 41174 times)

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u18b

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #270 on: August 10, 2021, 09:56:23 PM »
+5
Correcting and Improving the Crankshaft- part 2


I found it was impossible to hold everything and keep everything tight while soldering.

I got another casting and polished it all up.

 

Since I am eventually going to cut the casting spru, I went ahead and started the cut.

 

I drilled out the hole for the new shaft.  I did not want to do this last because this part is about to get very delicate.

 


I tinned the soldering surfaces.

 

And here is what made this great detail possible.  I placed the part in a hobby vice.   I bought this years ago and this is actually the first time I’ve used it!



Cut some more straps.

 

Made a loop and soldered it closed.

 

The solder joint now gave me something to hold on to and pull while soldering on the big end.

 

I snipped the loop.



Folded it over TIGHT and then soldered.

 

Trimmed the excess.  Folded the other side and soldered.

Flipped it over and repeated- though I also started using a heat sink to protect what I’d done.

 

Now we’re talking.  Better than before.  I also went ahead and cut out the casting spru remnant. Opening up the gap in the counterweight.

   

This is a pretty small piece.

 

Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

TiogaTracks

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #271 on: August 10, 2021, 10:41:00 PM »
0

This is a pretty small piece.



You don’t say!  :o

Your work on this rebuild is nothing short of amazing.

-Steven
Wellsville Addison & Galeton RR in 1:29
Still dabbling in N scale
Restoring a full size 1951 Brill bus

Chris333

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #272 on: August 10, 2021, 10:56:06 PM »
0
You sir are a crazy man.

u18b

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #273 on: August 11, 2021, 12:42:55 AM »
+2
Correcting and Improving the Crankshaft- part 3

I’m now ready to finish the new crankshaft.     As I slide the parts onto the shaft, I need to know the orientation of the rod bearing/counterweights for our imaginary pistons.

Studying photos, I determined the position of the rod bearings/counterweights.

I made myself a chart.  For example, in one photo the connecting rod on #1 was dead down (6 o’clock) and I made note of any other position.

Here is what I concluded.

If cylinder #1 is TDC (top dead center- which also means the counterweight is dead bottom)), then #2 is about at 2:30  and cylinder #3 is at 7:00.

Even better:  I found a photo of a bare Shay crankshaft.  My estimations were pretty accurate.





 
Since I’m redoing the crankshaft, I corrected another error I had not noticed during original construction.
The hole in the middle rocker was broken.  I could re-use the other two assemblies, but this one would have to be replaced.  The drill went a bit sideways.

 

So I created a new eccentric bearing/blades/rocker assembly.
And then installed all of the parts on the new crankshaft.

 

This time I added solder to the main drive gear and to the middle crankshaft part.
« Last Edit: February 15, 2023, 11:49:35 AM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #274 on: August 11, 2021, 09:09:06 AM »
+1
Back to that Tumbling Shaft
(have I lost my mind?)


And now…. Is it more asshattery?  …. or do I need an intervention?

Since I had this all apart, I decided to make a stab at that tumbling shaft linkage I had planned on skipping.

The tumbling shaft is behind the cylinders and little arms come up and interface with the rockers.

http://www.plan-ahead-designs.com/summaries/WM6PLANSET1STEAMENGINE.pdf


I dreaded doing this because it would have to be THIN- and would probably need to be manually cut out of thin brass sheet.  (It could be ugly- and would I even be able to make 2 that match.).

But then inspiration hit.   The key idea I had was to use the electrical pickup from some old cannibalized Arnold S-2 switchers.   It’s a bit more curved than the prototype, but it is thin, and just the right size.

 

I trimmed and drilled a #86 hole.

 

I then installed the linkage on the front end where there was a lot of room to work.  The part is simply soldered onto the end of the shaft.

 

The problem was installing the part in the rear.  There was precious little room to work.

This side was also harder because I could not solder the part to the end of a shaft- as in up front.

I had to cut a slot in the linkage for the shaft.

 

I used a heat sink to protect the work I had done.
The new part goes to the right of the tweezers.

 

For situations like this….. I created a special soldering iron tip which had been filed down to a sharp point and knife edge.

This tool was the only way I was going to be getting in there.

 

It was VERY hard tedious work, but I finally succeeded.



 




I reassembled everything, and now the Shay is back running again.

Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

Ed Kapuscinski

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #275 on: August 11, 2021, 09:46:48 AM »
0
Correcting and Improving the Crankshaft- part 2

 


Where'd you get the comically large finger? The print detail is amazing.  :D

garethashenden

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #276 on: August 11, 2021, 12:17:29 PM »
0
I know you want an all brass engine, but that linkage is a perfect spot to use some steel. Solders just as well and much stronger. Mild steel shim stock is great for things like this. You don’t want stainless steel, it doesn’t take solder, although that can be useful some times. 

u18b

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #277 on: August 11, 2021, 02:04:19 PM »
0
I know you want an all brass engine, but that linkage is a perfect spot to use some steel. Solders just as well and much stronger. Mild steel shim stock is great for things like this. You don’t want stainless steel, it doesn’t take solder, although that can be useful some times.

Thanks.

Do you have a source or a brand you use?

Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

garethashenden

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #278 on: August 11, 2021, 04:37:52 PM »
0
Thanks.

Do you have a source or a brand you use?

This is what I bought. It should be a lifetime supply at the rate I use it. https://www.mcmaster.com/9300K14/

u18b

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #279 on: August 11, 2021, 05:52:51 PM »
0
This is what I bought. It should be a lifetime supply at the rate I use it. https://www.mcmaster.com/9300K14/

Thank you for that.

So just so I'm clear...
You're suggesting in an application like the arms to the rocker that the thin piece of brass risks getting bent or damaged and that a thin piece of steel would be just as thin, but stronger.

Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #280 on: August 11, 2021, 07:15:37 PM »
+5
The Wow Factor

OK.  I’m ready to reveal something that I must confess amazed me.

In order for you to be blown away, I you need to to look at a couple of videos, for only about 20 seconds each.  If you don’t you will miss the power of the effect.

First.  Here is an older video of my Shay.  What you are looking at is the spinning parts under the cylinders.



Just have that in your mind.

Now watch a couple of minutes of the video of the prototype.

Here is a non-professional video.  Jump to the 1:20 mark.

The first time I saw this…. I thought…. What the heck!?  What am I seeing?




While you are also wondering what you just saw….

Here is another video- this time much higher quality and professional.   Jump to the 10 minute mark.


Weird huh?

The effect is most pronounced when viewed from an angle.

It is an optical illusion of sorts.  It looks like the crankshaft parts are starting and pausing.  But they are not.

What you are seeing is the light reflecting off of those straps that hold the counterweight on.

OK.  If you have watched what I asked you to watch….. then now you are ready.


When I saw this for the first time, I busted out laughing.
Oh my gosh!

This really is a scale model!


« Last Edit: August 11, 2021, 07:19:58 PM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

garethashenden

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #281 on: August 11, 2021, 07:24:25 PM »
0
Thank you for that.

So just so I'm clear...
You're suggesting in an application like the arms to the rocker that the thin piece of brass risks getting bent or damaged and that a thin piece of steel would be just as thin, but stronger.

Yes, anytime thinness and strength are needed, steel is better than brass. There was a great thread on scratchbuilding Walschaerts valve gear, unfortunately the pictures have gone away with photo hosting sites changing their rules...

Chris333

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #282 on: August 11, 2021, 08:09:21 PM »
0
Now wait till you have to paint it  :scared:


On the prototype I really don't understand what those straps do. Are they just to hold it in place if they should break off? Like a safety strap.

u18b

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #283 on: August 12, 2021, 12:32:35 AM »
+2
The Chaffee Branch
Description of a day’s work for Western Maryland Shay #6


Here is a simple summation of the work of the Big Six.
The following conceptual map will help.




Start at engine house at Vindex.

Go downhill nose-first to the interchange yard at the Potomac River.  Pick up 11 empty 55-ton hoppers. 

Running reverse, loco first (on the uphill side), nose to the hoppers, pull 11 cars uphill to the yard.

At the yard, break the train and continue in the same orientation, pulling 6 of the cars up to Vindex (so we are still running backwards, loco first, uphill side,  nose to the hoppers).

Enter the switchback (which has max limit of 6 cars + Shay).
Throw the turnout and move forward.  Head up the mountain.

Same coupling to cars, but now the loco is on the bottom side and is pushing the 6 cars uphill.  This is where the 9.1 % grade is.

At the top, at the mine.  Drop off the empties.
Pick up 6 loaded cars.  Same orientation.  Loco is first, on the downhill side, nose to the cars.

Ease down to the switchback at Vindex.  Do the switchback.

Continue forward on to the small yard below the switchback.  Now the Shay is on the uphill side easing the cars down.

At the yard, drop off the loads and pick up the remaining 5 empties.

Repeat procedure, taking 5 empties up to the mine and returning with 5 loads.

We are now at the small yard with 11 loads.  Run around the 11 loaded cars and couple to the cars, loco first (downhill side), tender facing the cars.

Ease the cars down to the interchange at the river.

Go home back up to Vindex. (actually, there was one or two other smaller mines below Vindex which might have produced 2 or so cars a day).

So when I build a layout, while I will need to use some selective compression, this will be the pattern of operation.
Ron Bearden
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"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

mmagliaro

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Re: The Overland/Wiseman brass Western Maryland Shay thread
« Reply #284 on: August 12, 2021, 02:32:35 AM »
0
I have to say, I saw those straps as a "nice touch" when you added them.  But the way they change the appearance of the motion of the cranks is HUGE.  It makes such a big difference in the coolness of watching it run.  I would never have imagined that they would created the illusion that the cranks are stopping and starting like that.
« Last Edit: August 12, 2021, 01:01:19 PM by mmagliaro »