Author Topic: ESU micro select direct 73100 in an Atlas SD60 (Read 3651 times)

Steveruger45 · « **on:** February 10, 2020, 08:23:10 PM »

Did this one a while ago and now working on its sister loco.
16 x 9mm speaker in a 907mm3 styrene enclosure.
4 x 20v 100uF poly tantalum capacitors, mounted in a block 2 x 2 under the rear of the decoder and just ahead of the speaker.
Frame milling, had to remove the frame slots for the dc board to fit this decoder in, so drilled and tapped a couple of 00-90 holes, one In each frame half, and screwed down a piece of pcb on each to solder the left and right power wires on.
Used the full sized led up front and a 0603 led, stuck to the rear of the speaker for the rear light.

Video how it sounds (some fine tuning still to do) and pictures of the frame milling needed.

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RBrodzinsky · « **Reply #1 on:** February 10, 2020, 08:28:43 PM »

Looks good, Steve. I am amazed how many of the Atlas locos require milling for the “drop in” board, not just for speaker.

Steveruger45 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 10, 2020, 08:44:40 PM »

Yeah. The sd60/50 use a much longer dc board than most locos of this era.
I did an sd50 quite a while ago with a 73800 before I had a 73100. It is in the reference thread JC is updating.

IMHO This is a much neater install and with the earlier sd50, gives a good comparison for fitting the two type of decoders used in similar locos. Which is why I posted it.

The new lok5dcc Micro could go in, in much the same way as my earlier 73800 in the sd50 but you get limited to an 8x12 speaker up front but get to keep the frame slots.

All in all I prefer the 73100

jdcolombo · « **Reply #3 on:** February 10, 2020, 09:04:57 PM »

You guys are killing me!

Nice work, Steve!

John C.

tehachapifan · « **Reply #4 on:** February 11, 2020, 12:50:05 AM »

looks and sounds great, Steve! I put that same sound file in a GP60 install I did. File is for an SD60E, IIRC, but sounds better than the other files IMHO.

Steveruger45 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 11, 2020, 09:11:23 AM »

Hi Russ, it’s actually the older 73831 sound file but I slowed down the sound speed quite a good bit and changed the horn.

tehachapifan · « **Reply #6 on:** February 11, 2020, 12:50:05 PM »

Yeah, I went out last night to confirm and realized it was a different file. I used to have the file you used loaded in my GP60 but didn't like something about it (I cannot recall what right now). What speed did you change it to?

Steveruger45 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 11, 2020, 01:44:05 PM »

I brought the sound speed down to 95 from normal 128. On its sister loco I will set it a little lower say 93, just to get some small difference when in consist.

conrad · « **Reply #8 on:** September 22, 2020, 04:06:58 PM »

Steve,

After I finish the GP40-2 install I'm thinking of putting 73100's into my SD60 & SD60M. Am I correct that the decoder location is fixed by the location of the motor saddle tabs. Thus none of the decoder's power tabs could be used. If so, what holds the decoder in position. If loose, I worry about shorts against the frame sides or the bottom of the decoder against the frame. See my paper decoder below.

conrad

Steveruger45 · « **Reply #9 on:** September 22, 2020, 08:00:41 PM »

Quote from: conrad on September 22, 2020, 04:06:58 PM

Steve,

After I finish the GP40-2 install I'm thinking of putting 73100's into my SD60 & SD60M. Am I correct that the decoder location is fixed by the location of the motor saddle tabs. Thus none of the decoder's power tabs could be used. If so, what holds the decoder in position. If loose, I worry about shorts against the frame sides or the bottom of the decoder against the frame. See my paper decoder below.

conrad

Hi Conrad, yes, you have to loose the frame slots for the decoder as you don’t want to loose the motor cradle tab holes. The latter keeps the motor alignment. I hard wired the the second set of power tabs by short lengths of wire to bits of pcb screwed into drilled and tapped 00-90 holes in each frame half. I apply kapton tape to critical areas of the frame. I also applied liquid electrical tape to the solder pads on both the ones I used for motor and U+ and my own made ground connection (After soldi g on the wires) and on any unused pads too, on the decoders underside to be sure no shorts could occur. The decoder is held in position by two bands of Kapton tape. You will note I also widened and lengthened the void area of the frame above the motor too both for ease of stuffing all the wires in and to remove frame metal that could contact the pads.
Hope this helps explain.

Wolf N Works · « **Reply #10 on:** September 23, 2020, 09:12:54 AM »

Steve, thanks for posting this, this will help me and my Rio Grande 50s that I have been wondering which was to go with sound install. Looking good

conrad · « **Reply #11 on:** September 23, 2020, 12:24:40 PM »

Steve,

Thanks for the details. Looking for the drill and tap set (one used by MT for coupler boxes). Have liquid electrical tape and Kapton tape.

Still itching to fit decoder using frame slots. Hoping that the longer I stare at frames their dimensions will change. Maybe have to call upon Uri Geller's powers.

Conrad

Steveruger45 · « **Reply #12 on:** September 23, 2020, 01:57:44 PM »

Quote from: conrad on September 23, 2020, 12:24:40 PM

Steve,

Thanks for the details. Looking for the drill and tap set (one used by MT for coupler boxes). Have liquid electrical tape and Kapton tape.

Still itching to fit decoder using frame slots. Hoping that the longer I stare at frames their dimensions will change. Maybe have to call upon Uri Geller's powers.

Conrad

As Atlas has now released a new SD60 with Loksound installed, those will have to have new frames I’m thinking. If those frames are available as spares then that could be an option too, assuming the rest of the mechanism is interchangeable. I just did a quick search but couldn’t find any spares for the new release.

EL3632 · « **Reply #13 on:** September 23, 2020, 05:07:47 PM »

Quote from: Steveruger45 on September 23, 2020, 01:57:44 PM

As Atlas has now released a new SD60 with Loksound installed, those will have to have new frames I’m thinking. If those frames are available as spares then that could be an option too, assuming the rest of the mechanism is interchangeable. I just did a quick search but couldn’t find any spares for the new release.

From the old runs, the SD50 and SD60 shells can fit over the sound mechanisms. The SD60M, for some reason, does not, you would need to cut holes in parts of the walkway to accommodate a nub on the mechanism, or shave off the nub.

conrad · « **Reply #14 on:** September 23, 2020, 08:02:21 PM »

EL3632, Thanks for the info. I'm not actually looking to put old shells on new locos. Rather, I hope to replace my older DCC decoders with sound decoders.

Steve, the new SD60"E" may not have compatible frames. Although these frames are made for the ESU board they also have the new (to me) Atlas wired truck connection and the plastic clip to hold the frames together. In addition, all the regular parts; saddles, trucks, universals, etc. have different part numbers. Again, compatibility could be an issue. Someone will have to buy a 60E and compare it to his/her old 60 or 60M. If it's a match, for less than $10, you can do a conversion without FILING.

Here's what I've found on the Atlas site:

The EMD 60E is not listed on the parts page.

Atlas SD60 and SD60M frame halves (p/n 9490101 & 2) are $4.05ea.

The parts diagram for the EMD SD60E (with DCC and DCC/sound board) has frame nos. AF9817-M81 & 2.

The electrical pin part number is A-4F9645-M101.

Conrad