The 2-10-0 project

[mmagliaro]

A Faulhaber 1016 + 4:1 gearhead is what I used for my I1s (Kato Mikado + extra wheelset + custom tender)
Even in a stock mikado, that motor gets quite warm after you run the engine for a while, even pulling a 20-car train.

With a 6v 1016, overdriven to 10 volts, the top speed of my engine is about 40 mph, which is good for a Penny I1s.
I did run it for a long time on a friend's layout once, with 90 cars on it, without failure.  But it did start to get pretty warm through the pewter boiler, even with the Faulhaber in it, which made me nervous.  I don't think I'd push it like that on a regular basis.

And for anybody reviewing all these options, realize that you can remotor a Trix 2-10-0 like John did, and put all-wheel-pickup tender trucks in it, and it will be a very respectable runner.  But if you want to run it on code 55 track, you will also have to grind down the driver flanges.  It's not an insurmountable task, just something to be aware of.  That motor John used in his example is a real
gem - low cost, low RPM, lots of power.  What's not to like?  You can harvest them out of old LL diesels from the 1990s.

John, I remember that project where you put the Kato drivers onto the Trix axles.  I had completely forgotten about it! It would DEFINITELY be worthwhile resurrecting and posting in here, as you did some very clever, talented work on it to make all that go back together.  I hope you post it here.

[mike_lawyer]

First step taken tonight - I removed the entire Kato Mikado shell.  I always forget how delicate that process is.  Next step - grind away the area for the 5th driver.

[mike_lawyer]

Started grinding away the frames this evening...will post pictures soon.

[mike_lawyer]

I have been working on grinding away two frames with a Dremel wheel.

Step 1 - Make two trench cuts lengthwise until the point where the underside of the chassis is flat. 







Step 2 will be to grind off the pin that holds the trailing truck so there is a flat surface for the 5th driver carrier.

[mmagliaro]

Good times, man.

By the way, when you try to spot a carrier for that 5th driver, I recall Jason Smith (superturbine) makine a little jig
with plastic styrene blocks to exactly spot any number of Kato axle carriers.  All you have to do is cut some styrene blocks that
very accurately sit in the existing axle bearing slots in the frame.  Then cement a heavy styrene strip across them.

Try to picture this... I have no photos.   

You end up with a styrene strip with 4 little blocks glued to it, which fit exactly into the existing 4 bearing slots.
Now, you can just put it in the bottom of the frame, but slide it one axle back, so that the rearmost block becomes your "locater"
for your new axle carrier. 

I think this is a lot easier than doing what I did all those years ago,  which was to measure, cut, and shim my axle carrier until I had it just right.

[Lemosteam]

Mike, this was my solution, this gave me a perfect place to also slot the block for a new drawbar:

[mike_lawyer]

Good times, man.

By the way, when you try to spot a carrier for that 5th driver, I recall Jason Smith (superturbine) makine a little jig
with plastic styrene blocks to exactly spot any number of Kato axle carriers.  All you have to do is cut some styrene blocks that
very accurately sit in the existing axle bearing slots in the frame.  Then cement a heavy styrene strip across them.

Try to picture this... I have no photos.   

You end up with a styrene strip with 4 little blocks glued to it, which fit exactly into the existing 4 bearing slots.
Now, you can just put it in the bottom of the frame, but slide it one axle back, so that the rearmost block becomes your "locater"
for your new axle carrier. 

I think this is a lot easier than doing what I did all those years ago,  which was to measure, cut, and shim my axle carrier until I had it just right.

Thanks Max, I remember that tip from a PM you sent me years ago.  That jig is one of those "why didn't I think of that earlier" moments.  Such a great solution to the spacing problem!

[mike_lawyer]

Step 3 - Frame modification at the rear to eliminate the trailing truck pin and prepare for 5th driver holder.

[mike_lawyer]

Can anyone recommend a good 00-90 tap for cutting into metal?  I have a kadee tap and it is really difficult to use cutting into metal.  I have gotten them stuck sometimes.

[peteski]

Can anyone recommend a good 00-90 tap for cutting into metal?  I have a kadee tap and it is really difficult to use cutting into metal.  I have gotten them stuck sometimes.

We had a discussion just about this about 3 weeks ago.  This thread should have the answers you are seeking: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=48950

[mike_lawyer]

Thanks Pete, I missed that thread.  BTW, where did you get that storage box for all your 00-90 screws and taps?  I need to pick up one of those!

[peteski]

Thanks Pete, I missed that thread.  BTW, where did you get that storage box for all your 00-90 screws and taps?  I need to pick up one of those!

Good luck with that. Sorry!
These clear boxes (lined with anti-static foam rubber) were used as packaging for Sun Microsystem's memory modules (SIMMs and DIMMs). Remember those from the early '90s?  They were 4MB and 16MB modules. Those were the days. . . Since I worked on repairing Sun Microsystems computers at that time, I ended up with bunch of those empty boxes.  Those were just plain clear boxes.  I made the nifty dividers from some discarded recessed fluorescent lamp fixture diffusers. The ones that look like white plastic grates.  I just cut ir to size, glued a piece of sheet styrene on the bottom and put it in the box.  That is what you see in those photos.

[mike_lawyer]

Wow, nice job making that storage box.  I am looking for a small storage box myself for small parts, screws, taps, etc.  Maybe I can find something at my local hobby shop.

[MK]

Wow, nice job making that storage box.  I am looking for a small storage box myself for small parts, screws, taps, etc.  Maybe I can find something at my local hobby shop.

I use something like this.  Great if you have small quantities of each item.  Also the visibility allows for easy searching without dumping everything out.  And since they are individual jars, even if you drop the entire tray, no spillage at all.

https://www.amazon.com/Embroidery-JUSTDOLIFE-Painting-Containers-Rhinestones/dp/B07MDKQ959/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=beads+organizer&qid=1583589457&sr=8-20

[mike_lawyer]

We had a discussion just about this about 3 weeks ago.  This thread should have the answers you are seeking: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=48950

I saw in that thread that you had several 00-90 cutter bits that were 00-90 width for a good length, not with a tapered shaft.  I need to tap some threads through about .25 inches, so I can't use one of the tapered bits.