N-scale Gear Puller

[Maletrain]

I really don't think that anybody wants to totally remove the axle (this notion got injected after the thread was started.  The original question was how to slightly push the pointy axle end in (not totally remove it) without damaging the point.

@Maletrain
My soft-metal ram is actually piece of sheet metal aluminum placed between the steel ram of my arbor press and the pointy axle.  I'm *NOT* ever trying to push the axle all the what through the wheel!  There is no need for that.  My goal is to just adjust the amount the pointy end sticks out of the wheel face.  That is also what this thread was started about.

Sorry about the thread drift (but, it is a TRW tradition  ). 

I do have an situation where I want to completely remove wheels from their axles and put new wheels on the same axle.  (European bogie axles that are way longer than U.S. truck axles and currently have wheels with huge flanges.)  So, I don't want to damage the axle points, but I do need to get the axles shoved completely back through their holes in their wheels. 

[peteski]

Sorry about the thread drift (but, it is a TRW tradition  ). 

I do have an situation where I want to completely remove wheels from their axles and put new wheels on the same axle.  (European bogie axles that are way longer than U.S. truck axles and currently have wheels with huge flanges.)  So, I don't want to damage the axle points, but I do need to get the axles shoved completely back through their holes in their wheels.

That will be a bit tougher.  There is a replacement wheel manufacturer in Germany selling all sorts of wheelsets. They all have 0.9mm flange depth. Not sure of that would be helpful.  You will need Google Translate (or a translating browser).  http://www.modellbahn-radsatz.de/n/radsaetze-n/index.php

Trying to push the pointy side of the axle all the way through the wheel will take some head-scratching.  I don't think that a soft-metal ram of the same diameter like the axle will work without distorting.

[u18b]

Because of the recommendation of this thread, I bought one of these pullers off ebay.
Man, I like it.  Very well designed and the perfect size for N scale.


One of the things I like most is the easy changing of the rams.
And that got me to thinking- it would be easy to make replacements/custom rams.
That is simply 1/8" rod with a groove.


So since I needed a custom raw, I decided to build one. 
I have 2 things in mind- someone asked about moving pointy axles without damaging the point.  So I was thinking this might be a good place for brass.

Second, I needed to re-gage some wheels on my brass Shay and since these wheels are absolutely irreplaceable, I have to do it causing no damage- once again, brass is the answer.  So I collected several K&S brass tubing from my stash.  The largest is 1/8" and the rest nest inside each other. 



When I inserted the first time, it almost fit perfectly.  But the ram must slide in and out easily.



I cut length of tubing, with the inner pieces longer than the outside.



I had an old  1/8" round file.  Broke it off and then gently cleaned out the receiver of the puller.


More in next post.

[u18b]

Here are the 3 tubes nested.


After polishing the oxidation off the tubes, apply flux to the outside of the inner two.



Now solder.  You can use an iron.   I use a resistance soldering station.  Once heated, it sucks up the solder.



Cut off one end so it can be inserted.



Get any excess solder off.



Clean and file until it inserts easily.


more to come.

[u18b]

Now that the new ram fits, time to make the notch.


Insert the ram all the way in and tighten the set screw snug but not too tight.



Now spin the ram.   remove the set screw and you will see marks for the area to cut.



This shot shows two things.  First, it shows the notch I cut.   I saw no reason to go all the way around.   The notch is enough.
Also, this is the base, but I can use it too.  This end is for the Shay.  I took a small round tip motor tool and my made a slight depression.



This can now be used to move the shaft on my Shay.



And here is the other end.  The hole is the inner tubing.  An axle point can go into the center hole.  And since this is all soft brass, it will not damage the wheel axle point.







And these rams are so easy to make, I'm sure I will be making more for special needs.

[Jim Starbuck]

Looks great Ron!
Thanks for the write-up

[Jim Starbuck]

While not exactly a gear puller, I wanted a better way to pull the wheels straight out of the axle tubes on Lifelike SW switchers. The half axles on these are fluted so twisting them while pulling damages the plastic axle tube.
My solution is slotted parallel blocks that when slid together force the axle out of the tube. These blocks are made of walnut hardwood.

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Note how the outer surfaces of the blocks stay flat against the gear and wheel back.
Simply slide the blocks together and it pulls the wheel straight out. It works great.

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[Chris333]

Just like adjustable parallels! Sweet.

[wm3798]

Is there an updated eBay link?  The one posted on page one is dead.
Thx

Lee

[wazzou]

Brilliant @Jim Starbuck
What do you do to press on replacement Atlas or KATO wheels?   

[Jim Starbuck]

Brilliant @Jim Starbuck
What do you do to press on replacement Atlas or KATO wheels?

Thanks Bryan
I start the axle in the tube then just push them back in with my thumbnails. It’s not very sophisticated but it works.

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Jim

[wazzou]

I'm sure you've mentioned it, but do you replace with Atlas or KATO?

[Jim Starbuck]

I'm sure you've mentioned it, but do you replace with Atlas or KATO?

I have removed the stock wheels, turned down the flanges then reinstalled them. I have also used Atlas and Kato. I think  my preference is Atlas. The Katos look good and pick up well but seem to reduce the pulling capacity. The stock wheels pull the best but the Atlas seem to have better pick up than the stock wheels.
I have no scientific data to back this up just my own experience. YMMV

[wm3798]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Pinion-Puller-Gear-Remover-Tool-Gear-Extractor-for-FC-130-FC-280PC/353052755462

Is this the guy?  Just want to make sure before I pull the trigger...
Lee

[Steveruger45]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Pinion-Puller-Gear-Remover-Tool-Gear-Extractor-for-FC-130-FC-280PC/353052755462

Is this the guy?  Just want to make sure before I pull the trigger...
Lee

Lee, that is the one I have and looks identical to the one in reply 32 as well.