Weekend Update 1/5/20

[peteski]

That sounds like more work 

Marginally yes (just 3 more solder joints per switch, but it will be much less work if one of the switch contacts fails after the switch is installed and being used for few years. Having doubled contacts should pay dividends in the future (who wants to be fixing an operating layout, pulling out switches and resoldering wires)? 

[Bob]

Boy, Helicon focus is easy to use.  I took three series of photos of the Duffields West Virginia scene (the only bit of scenery I have completed) with my iPhone and just using the layout's LEDS overhead lighting and without a holder or tripod - I did not supplement with the photo flood lights I have.  I then used Helicon focus which is a snap.  Well, 5 of 8 photos series were no good (too much vibration from my hand, I guess), but three were just fine and are shown here.  Well, I took screen shots rather than posting the high-res images.

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[CRL]

Or to double up the contacts for extra reliability.

Why don’t you just use an opti-visor like everyone else?

Ba-da bing!

[peteski]

Or to double up the contacts for extra reliability.

Why don’t you just use an opti-visor like everyone else?

Ba-da bing!

Wow!  That went way over my head. I guess you had to be there. 

[peteski]

Boy, Helicon focus is easy to use.  I took three series of photos of the Duffields West Virginia scene (the only bit of scenery I have completed) with my iPhone and just using the layout's LEDS overhead lighting and without a holder or tripod - I did not supplement with the photo flood lights I have.  I then used Helicon focus which is a snap.  Well, 5 of 8 photos series were no good (too much vibration from my hand, I guess), but three were just fine and are shown here.  Well, I took screen shots rather than posting the high-res images.

It really is amazing how much more realistic N scale looks when the entire photo is in focus. As if it was larger scale, or even a 1:1 scene.
Yes, Helicon Focus is quite easy to use.  It is harder to take a series of stack photos than to plug plug into HF and let it do its thing.  HF will work with any photos, taken under any light conditions. I have used on some night shots too.

[Bob]

Yes, it is really impressive and super-fast.  Peteski - do you usually use this for the photos you post?  I'm thinking of all those 'winter' shots you have posted with barren trees.

[Bob]

The other things these photos show are all the blemishes.  Looks pretty good to me, and then in the photo I see that I have static grass on roofs, on the passenger platform, etc.  On the other hand, you are quite right that when you have depth of focus the images really pop and look way more realistic.

[peteski]

Yes, it is really impressive and super-fast.  Peteski - do you usually use this for the photos you post?  I'm thinking of all those 'winter' shots you have posted with barren trees.

Thanks, but that was not me.  Was it Conrail?  Then it was Ed Kapuscinski.

[CRL]

Why don’t you just use an opti-visor like everyone else?

Ba-da bing!


Wow!  That went way over my head. I guess you had to be there. 

...Double up the contacts (lenses) for better reliability. 

Tough room tonite!

[peteski]

...Double up the contacts (lenses) for better reliability. 

Tough room tonite!

GROAN!   

[Maletrain]

The other things these photos show are all the blemishes.  Looks pretty good to me, and then in the photo I see that I have static grass on roofs, on the passenger platform, etc.  On the other hand, you are quite right that when you have depth of focus the images really pop and look way more realistic.

If you need it, I am sure you can find prototypes for grass growing in parking lots and on roofs.  One of the things that stands out to me is how unnaturally clean most model roofs look.  I have one 1:1 case with plenty of moss and lichens on my shingles.  I had a neighbor with gutters that looked like they could be "hayed".  (Of course, on his sloped roof, he would have needed that special West Virginia version of the mower and bailer equipment.  )

[peteski]

The other things these photos show are all the blemishes.  Looks pretty good to me, and then in the photo I see that I have static grass on roofs, on the passenger platform, etc.  On the other hand, you are quite right that when you have depth of focus the images really pop and look way more realistic.

I agree with Maletrain:  blemishes and imperfection is what makes a scene look realistic. I'm not talking about some exposed plaster, or some unfinished area, but the overall look of the scene.  Looking at the way your layout looks, you are striving for realism, not some unrealistically clean perfection.  I think you are doing pretty darn good job to make the scenes look like real world, not some fairy tale model train village.

As far as seeing all the (good and bad) details, it's closeup photography in general, not specifically focus-stacked images.  Many modelers use photos to judge the quality of their modeling.

[CRL]

GROAN!   

😜

[diezmon]

It really is amazing how much more realistic N scale looks when the entire photo is in focus. As if it was larger scale, or even a 1:1 scene.
Yes, Helicon Focus is quite easy to use.  It is harder to take a series of stack photos than to plug plug into HF and let it do its thing.  HF will work with any photos, taken under any light conditions. I have used on some night shots too.

It's also great for showing off your modeling mishaps   I did some test shots a few weeks ago.  I saw lots of dust, fuzz, and decal lines.   Motivation!      

[nkalanaga]

Never mind grass on the roofs.  Over the years I've seen several pictures of trees on roofs, or growing from the sides of brick buildings. 

I wouldn't model the trees, unless you have a prototype photo showing one, but anywhere dirt can accumulate on a roof grass and weeds can grow.  Grass and dandelion seeds can blow up there, and larger seeds can be deposited by birds.