Fox Valley Loco Detail Parts: HOW?!?!

[peteski]

Isn't that kind of permanent?

No, that stuff rubs off from metal surface. Or, some acetone will dissolve it.  I would also say that it might require multiple dip and dry cycles to build up thick enough layer of rubbery surface.

Even if it was permanent, tweezers are relatively inexpensive - keep one pair with soft tips. That is what I do - as you can see, mine (red tips) is permanently converted. I also have another pair (self-closing) that I converted to soft tips using pieces of small diameter thin-wall heat shrink tubing (pair with black tips, visible in the back).

[jagged ben]

Yeah I gotta get more serious about my tweezer collection.   

[ednadolski]

But this might be too chunky to work for tiny grab irons.

Quite so.  The 0.005" wire is tricky enough to pick up without any of that, even with the 'precision' tweezers.   The dirty little secret is, of course, how many of those itty-bitty little parts never make it onto a model and end up in the carpet, never to be seen again

Ed

[CRL]

Yeah I gotta get more serious about my tweezer collection.   

Especially for those really hard to reach ear hairs.

Don’t laugh youngsters... your time is coming!!!

[peteski]

Especially for those really hard to reach ear hairs.

Don’t laugh youngsters... your time is coming!!!

Electric nose-hair trimmer works even better (and much less painful). 

[MetroRedLine]

Honestly there are no guides, no rules, no magic, and you don't need any of that.  Ultimately it is a matter of mindset. You're just making some little holes in some plastic, and gluing some little wires into them. That's all, really.  If you're less confident in your current skills, you can always practice on some scrap shells until you are getting more consistent results.  But don't let yourself get hung up over notions that aren't really there, and won't be of any help to you to move forward and learn.

(Hopefully that's useful and doesn't come across as condescending.)

Ed

Thanks. No condescension felt! I need that wisdom. I do want to be a kung fu/Jedi/Pokemon master of N scale loco detailing (or at least try).
I guess I'm more discouraged about the lack of a basic guide from FVM. The exploded diagram that comes with the loco (ES44 GEVO) is very general and vague, and there are even some grabirons which I have absolutely no clue where they go.

[Missaberoad]

Do the old Blma guides/videos still exist? Might be helpful...

[ednadolski]

... and there are even some grabirons which I have absolutely no clue where they go.

That sounds like you're still worried about "doing it wrong".  To me at least, detailing is about taking something and making it somehow (subjectively, IMOHO) better.  So if there are extra grabirons or whatever, it isn't something that I would let get into my way.

I do want to be a kung fu/Jedi/Pokemon master of N scale loco detailing (or at least try).

So as far as the 'jedi master' thing goes - I'm not sure I see much point in that sort of notion [1], other than perhaps as an excuse to grow more ear hair

As for trying: well, that's up to you, isn't it?   The only one who can stop you there is yourself.

Ed


[1] the idea probably comes out of reading too much of the MR press hyperbole.

[tehachapifan]

Adding details, like grabirons, is one of the things in this hobby I enjoy the most. While admittedly somewhat tedious, I find it's almost therapeutic! Grabirons alone can take a rather toy-like shell and transform it into an impressive scale model. That said, I typically use a drill jig (not necessary with the FVM dimples), a good pin vise with a #80 bit, and a spacer. I also agree with honing skills on a scrap shell first. The hardest thing for me is scraping the molded-on grabs and leaving a clean, smooth surface that can be touched-up with paint afterwards.

….with the spacer....you got to be careful that the edges of the spacer doesn't reach any of the holes, as you can have ACC migration/wicking occur after applying ACC from the inside of the shell, causing the spacer to become affixed to the shell. Another good reason to practice first!

[James Costello]

The key to picking up and holding grabs with tweezers is counter-intuitive too:



Less pressure is more 

But definitely master the grabs before you try threading lift rings onto EMD coupler lift bars for installation as an assembly...that one's a real PITA.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I'd also HIGHLY recommend making a jig for drilling everything.

I did that the other night for my 8905 project. Hooray for using Adobe Indesign like CAD, but when all you've got in your toolbox is a hammer...

[JanesCustomTrain]

But definitely master the grabs before you try threading lift rings onto EMD coupler lift bars for installation as an assembly...that one's a real PITA.

Life is too short for that. Use the GE "hooks" or buy the BLMA Z scale coupler lift bars, plenty of little "hooks" on these and yes, they are big enough for the BLMA N scale EMD and GE coupler lift bars.

Jane

[Hatchet]

Peteski,
Where did you get that block holding your tweezers? Been looking for one of those!

Mark

[Sharky_McSharknose]

I have the FVM NYC Heritage SD70ACe that has the separate grabirons and a Kato E8A I will be adding Gold Medal Model grabs to as I detail it up as a MBTA loco. This thread is definitely relevant to my interests!

I measured the FVM grabirons with my digital calipers- they have a diameter of 0.0095"/0.24mm.

The Gold Medal Models 160-56 grabirons kit comes with drilling jigs. I'll have to check if any of the jigs line up with the dimples on the nose/rear of the SD70.

There's only an exploded diagram for instructions with the SD70ACe, so adding the grabs will be a process of elimination and lots of referencing prototype photos.

[ednadolski]

Where did you get that block holding your tweezers?

Nice, tho I prefer something where I can put the pointy/sharp end facing down:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3P5B5V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ed