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Quote from: nkalanaga on November 16, 2019, 02:25:42 AMIf the gap isn't a problem for trains crossing it, electrically, why not print the gap-filling rail as part of the joiner? No need to cut, or fiddle with, a little piece of metal.Quote from: peteski on November 16, 2019, 02:29:44 AMA standard Kato metal joiner is installed into the extended joiner Mark printed. There is not way to print the piece of plastic rail to protrude through the metal joiner. Come to think of it, Kato joiners are very deep. I don't think they can hold a 3mm piece of rail securely - it will fall into the metal joiner.I think what nkalanaga was trying to say is to bypass using the metal rail joiner altogether. Instead, add to the 3D print, a small 3mm "rail" to bridge the gap. Yes, there will be no electrical conductivity but we're assuming that it wouldn't be a problem as each rail will have a feed somewhere down the line. There'll be no bumpty-bump as the train goes by.
If the gap isn't a problem for trains crossing it, electrically, why not print the gap-filling rail as part of the joiner? No need to cut, or fiddle with, a little piece of metal.
A standard Kato metal joiner is installed into the extended joiner Mark printed. There is not way to print the piece of plastic rail to protrude through the metal joiner. Come to think of it, Kato joiners are very deep. I don't think they can hold a 3mm piece of rail securely - it will fall into the metal joiner.
The head profile on Kato rail is huge, and helps prevent the rail from falling into the deep joiner. Worst case, a dab of solder would do the trick too. And there will certainly be uses where an insulated 3mm joiner would work just as well, or even be preferred. I'll make both versions. https://i.imgur.com/0mAV4Zc.jpg
The Railwire is not your personal army.
Damn, @diezmon, that is one looooooooooong caboose. What in the world was that built from or its purpose for being so big?DFF