Proposed HO/HOn3 Layout. Colorado Midland/D&RG/C&S

[dcarrell8]

More like a file for foam, but yeah.  Gouge out, round off, shape and contour.  And like I said they come in many shapes and sizes.

Scott

I will look in to it!

[dcarrell8]

Got started on the roadbed.
After much thought, I decided to go ahead and lay roadbed every where the track is.  I had planned on bringing some of it down to the foam but decided it was going to be too much trouble to mess with.  I used cork for the dual gauge and homasote for the HOn3.

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Next I attempted the creek, it was way too close to the fascia so I quickly nixed that idea.  I raised the sub road bed up 1.75 inches so I can cut the fascia away and make the front edge a little more dynamic.

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Unfortunately I cut the plywood to contour with the river, leaving gaps that will be difficult to fill.  I'm thinking of stuffing Wal-Wart bags into the gaps, then covering the area with cheesecloth and "painting" it with plaster. This is a technique that Kelly Newton uses, so I may give it a try. http://www.ucwrr.com/Kelly'sScenery.htm

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Before got too carried away with the scenery at the front of the module, I needed to mock up a control panel to see where it would sit and impact the scenery.  The panel has a push button and a single LED for each turnout.  The amber LED will light up only on the diverging route.  I still haven't decided how to create the panel itself.  I want it to look professional, so spray paint and sharpies are out!  (Ideas are encouraged)

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Each button and LED at the panel will only need three wires, +5 VDC  -/ GND  a control wire from the LCC node and appropriate resistors.  I will also recess this by about 3/4 of an inch to make room for the rumored box lid in the future.

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On a side note, I also need to build a roll around table for my Christmas Present!

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Thanks Everyone for the encouragement and input!

[dcarrell8]

I have no idea why those pictures are sideways, they were not uploaded that way.

[Steveruger45]

Hi,
Yes, frustrating isn’t it when technology in this digital age can’t figure out how to orient a picture.
Anyhow, you can prevent this by holding your iPhone or iPad side ways with the home button on the right side when you take the photo.    Then the pics will get posted the right way up.
Rotating a picture that was taken before with the iPhone not in sideways/home button on the right, before you post it still won’t come out correctly oriented.

[dcarrell8]

Hi,
Yes, frustrating isn’t it when technology in this digital age can’t figure out how to orient a picture.
Anyhow, you can prevent this by holding your iPhone or iPad side ways with the home button on the right side when you take the photo.    Then the pics will get posted the right way up.
Rotating a picture that was taken before with the iPhone not in sideways/home button on the right, before you post it still won’t come out correctly oriented.

That is what is frustrating.  I took these pictures home button down, I did not go "landscape" on them.  Maybe I had the phone completely upside down and didn't realize it!  There was no issues on my computer preview before I uploaded either. But I will remember your tick when do go for a wider shot.

[Hawghead]

For the gap between the fascia and the "stream", I'd use your scrap foam pieces like you've started to and then use that expanding foam insulation to fill the leftover voids.  One word of caution though on the expanding foam, once you've sprayed it in the voids, DON'T TOUCH IT UNTIL IT'S COMPLETELY DRY!!!  If you do, you'll wind up with a mess on your hands, ask me how I know.     Once it's dry it trims very easily with a blade from a hack saw.

Scott

[dcarrell8]

For the gap between the fascia and the "stream", I'd use your scrap foam pieces like you've started to and then use that expanding foam insulation to fill the leftover voids.  One word of caution though on the expanding foam, once you've sprayed it in the voids, DON'T TOUCH IT UNTIL IT'S COMPLETELY DRY!!!  If you do, you'll wind up with a mess on your hands, ask me how I know.     Once it's dry it trims very easily with a blade from a hack saw.

Scott

Thanks Scott, I Like that idea.

I went back and read all of Kelly Newton's blog on cheese cloth scenery, I still want to try it, but since I already have roadbed down I don't think I'll attempt it here.

There are more than one kind of spray foam, do you recommend a specific brand/type?

~ Dennis

[Hawghead]

The foam I used was Great Stuff I picked up at the local hardware store, but I'm sure they are all pretty much the same.  Just remember it'll expand to many times it's wet volume when it dries.  A little goes.a long way.

Scott

[CRL]

I first learned scenery using cheesecloth draped over random styrofoam shapes. The only other difference is we use a paper mache’ product called Celluclay instead of plaster, mixed with a 50/50 solution of water & latex paint to a oatmeal consistency and applied to the cheesecloth in a layer about 1/8” thick. The layer should be thick enough to cover the weave, but not too thick or it will crack when drying. Apply zip texturing or other ground material (dirt) while the paint is still wet, spraying wet water to bond the texture. Very lightweight & tough when dry.

[C855B]

The foam I used was Great Stuff I picked up at the local hardware store, but I'm sure they are all pretty much the same. ...

Actually... they're not all the same. I found out (the hard way!) that expansion rates of the various spray foams are all over the map. There was one discount brand I used that was supposed to be an equivalent to Great Stuff (regular) that continued expanding for something like a week. I had to tear out that part of the layout after it warped everything.     Another foam I tried - "Smooth-It", a two-part resin - was so hard after curing I could have used it as a hammer. It required power tools to cut, with much effort and dulling of blades.

In my own layout construction I originally thought the plan was going to be lots of spray foam for geoforming and some structural reinforcement. In execution, between the potential for big messes, poor control and unpredictable expansion characteristics I've backed-off that idea somewhat. Nonetheless, in seeking better control I now have the Great Stuff "pro" kit, and advise it as a better solution - at least more controllable, debatably less messy - than any of the rattle cans.

[Steveruger45]

That is what is frustrating.  I took these pictures home button down, I did not go "landscape" on them.  Maybe I had the phone completely upside down and didn't realize it!  There was no issues on my computer preview before I uploaded either. But I will remember your tick when do go for a wider shot.

Hi again, yep, in your computer the photo will look correct way up no matter how you held the phone. But to get it to post right side up you still need to hold the phone sideways (landscape) with home button on the right for every shot, no matter what style of shot you take.  Wonderful this technology isn’t it    Anyhow I like what you’re doing.

[Hawghead]

Actually... they're not all the same. I found out (the hard way!) that expansion rates of the various spray foams are all over the map. There was one discount brand I used that was supposed to be an equivalent to Great Stuff (regular) that continued expanding for something like a week. I had to tear out that part of the layout after it warped everything.     Another foam I tried - "Smooth-It", a two-part resin - was so hard after curing I could have used it as a hammer. It required power tools to cut, with much effort and dulling of blades.

In my own layout construction I originally thought the plan was going to be lots of spray foam for geoforming and some structural reinforcement. In execution, between the potential for big messes, poor control and unpredictable expansion characteristics I've backed-off that idea somewhat. Nonetheless, in seeking better control I now have the Great Stuff "pro" kit, and advise it as a better solution - at least more controllable, debatably less messy - than any of the rattle cans.

I guess I assumed that like most mass produced products for the general public that it was all made by one company and repackaged for the different brands.  Thanks for clearing that up.  I don't think I would try using the spray foam to make land forms.  In my opinion it's just way to messy and uncontrollable, but it's great for filling gaps.  YMMV.

Scott

[dcarrell8]

I first learned scenery using cheesecloth draped over random styrofoam shapes. The only other difference is we use a paper mache’ product called Celluclay instead of plaster, mixed with a 50/50 solution of water & latex paint to a oatmeal consistency and applied to the cheesecloth in a layer about 1/8” thick. The layer should be thick enough to cover the weave, but not too thick or it will crack when drying. Apply zip texturing or other ground material (dirt) while the paint is still wet, spraying wet water to bond the texture. Very lightweight & tough when dry.

Any pictures or video of this technique?  I'm interested.

~Dennis

[CRL]

Here’s a link to a write up on the technique by gentleman named Jim Ladd I was privileged to know. He has since moved on to the great train room in the sky. Go to the “techniques” section and pull up “General Terrain Scenery for Modules”.

http://santrak.org/

I did the base scenery years ago on this junction module for the owner, but he never finished it.

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[dcarrell8]

Progress!
I used the Great Stuff spray foam as suggested by Scott and did some carving, I still have some more to do but I'm happy with it so far.  I'm still considering the scenery base technique.  I may try Celluclay mixed with 50/50 water paint as suggested by CRL.  I figure I will try the technique on something else to see what I think.

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I've also completed a prototype panel.  I went with spray paint and a silver sharpie on my first go.  The Panel is designed to be eisely removed if any work needs to be done to it.

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Hopefully I can get some track work done this next weekend.