Proposed HO/HOn3 Layout. Colorado Midland/D&RG/C&S

[dcarrell8]

I have finished the bench work for the "Malta" section of my layout.  This section is designed to be a stand alone module that can be transported as a single unit.

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I wanted to create a light weight but sturdy frame that could be broken down into components that will fit into the back of a pick-up.

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I created tenons out of 1X4's that the box frame would easily slip on and off of with carriage bolts and wing-nuts.

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One of the more challanging aspects to the build is creating a "Lid" that will protect the module during transportation.  I chose to place the masonite on the inside of the frame creating a lip for a lid to slip on to.

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I also wanted to have a backdrop that would fit into the lid.  The upright supports and frame for the backdrop will fit into a section of the lid. (not yet built)

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I will hold off on building the Lid and back drop until I'm in the scenery phase of the build.

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[Hawghead]

Looking good so far, looking forward to seeing more.

Scott

[John]

I watched the video.. very ambitious ..  looking forward to this project going forward .. how are you going to heat this thing?  I hear it gets cold out there?

[dcarrell8]

I watched the video.. very ambitious ..  looking forward to this project going forward .. how are you going to heat this thing?  I hear it gets cold out there?

Thanks for the view!
The main area for the layout is still under construction.  Unfortunately I threw my back out this fall and it took a month of chiropractor appointments to get things back in place.  I intentionally stayed away from doing anything above my head and on a ladder!!

Heat and air will be provided by a Mini split in the north end of the building (3600 BTU's I'm thinking.)  I'm holding off on that until I have completed sheeting and insulating the walls and ceiling.  I plan on attacking the rake walls to the ceiling next.  (All on a ladder, above my head, by myself ) 

I should be posting two more videos before the end of the month.

~Dennis

[CRL]

Rent a drywall jack if you can.

[dcarrell8]

I have started track work on Malta. While planing on the computer, I did my best to use accurate dimensions of the buildings I wanted to use.  A lot of manufactures will include the footprint of the model in the description of the item before you purchase.  Apparently some of these are rough dimensions and not necessarily true measurements.

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My first snag was Malta station.  This is the Bar Mills model "Whistle Stop" kit.  The paper on top of the platform is what I used in my initial planning.  The original tack spacing wouldn't work with the kit unless I wanted locomotives to take out the odd pedestrian on the platform.

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You can see the red line where my original main line was supposed to be.  I also elected to use a right hand turnout coming out of town instead of a left.  I think this makes more sense.  Don't mind the crooked FSM kit. (a work in progress) I still need to do some more fitting to make sure it fits in this space as well.  It's certainly too close in it's current position. 

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Track spacing is a little wonky on the east end of town as well.  I think I may need to compress the cattle pens some, so they don't crowd the back drop too much.  The crude building to the right is a coal dealership that never made the original track plan.  I couldn't find the measurements for it, so i finally just mocked it up.  It turned out to be much bigger than I expected.  It's a tight fit.

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Another option for the coal dealership is to slide the cattle pens further east and place it just west of the pens.  There is another "shed" attached to the back of this model, but I won't be able to model tracks going into that area if I place it west of the cattle pens.  I'm leaning toward this decision right now.

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Finally I'm not sure how to lose the overall flat look of the town.  Everything I have ever modeled has been on a piece of plywood, I'm open for simple suggestions.

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[dem34]

On the flatness concern, once you know where all the buildings are going to land definitively you can both carve a couple ditchs and slopes in some areas and build up small amounts of sculptamold in others. Not like cliffs and mountains, but small variations make a big difference to the overall look.

[narrowminded]

I like what you're doing.  

As far as a lid, once all is completed, consider making the whole lid from 1/2" or 3/4" foam board.  Economical, easy to work with, and especially lightweight.  I did just that, an entire box, top and bottom, for moving @davefoxx Seaboard Central 2.0  hollow core door layout from Delaware to Pittsburgh.  And when done with it, recycle into another layout.

I used WS Scenic cement to glue all of the joints.  It worked really well, enough so that Dave, seeing how it worked as we packaged the thing up, suggested it should be a build thread.  He may have taken pictures.

[dcarrell8]

I like what you're doing.  

As far as a lid, once all is completed, consider making the whole lid from 1/2" or 3/4" foam board.  Economical, easy to work with, and especially lightweight.  I did just that, an entire box, top and bottom, for moving @davefoxx Seaboard Central 2.0  hollow core door layout from Delaware to Pittsburgh.  And when done with it, recycle into another layout.

I used WS Scenic cement to glue all of the joints.  It worked really well, enough so that Dave, seeing how it worked as we packaged the thing up, suggested it should be a build thread.  He may have taken pictures.

You think 3/4" foam would be strong enough to hold the backdrop frame and legs? 

[John]

Finally I'm not sure how to lose the overall flat look of the town.  Everything I have ever modeled has been on a piece of plywood, I'm open for simple suggestions.

I think you are off to a good start just by using sheet foam ... it will allow you to go negative elevations .. get yourself a good form tool from HD or Lowes .. and some thinner foam board as well ..  1/2"  1" .. etc ..

On the flatness concern, once you know where all the buildings are going to land definitively you can both carve a couple ditchs and slopes in some areas and build up small amounts of sculptamold in others. Not like cliffs and mountains, but small variations make a big difference to the overall look.

Great advice ...

[dcarrell8]

I think you are off to a good start just by using sheet foam ... it will allow you to go negative elevations .. get yourself a good form tool from HD or Lowes .. and some thinner foam board as well ..  1/2"  1" .. etc ..

Form tool?  Like a hot wire cutter?  Or do you have something else in mind?

[Hawghead]

Form tool?  Like a hot wire cutter?  Or do you have something else in mind?

I'm sure he's talking about something like Surform tools.  Something like this.



They are available in many different shapes and sizes.

Scott

[pdx1955]

I think you are off to a good start just by using sheet foam ... it will allow you to go negative elevations .. get yourself a good form tool from HD or Lowes .. and some thinner foam board as well ..  1/2"  1" .. etc ..

Great advice ...

I've used pieces of 1/4" foam core sheet to build up larger areas for slight elevation changes - the edges can be filed down or use spackle/sculptamold to form the transitions .

[dcarrell8]

I'm sure he's talking about something like Surform tools.  Something like this.



They are available in many different shapes and sizes.

Scott

Looks like a cheese grader, is that essentially how it works?  Gouge out low areas.

~Dennis

[Hawghead]

Looks like a cheese grader, is that essentially how it works?  Gouge out low areas.

~Dennis

More like a file for foam, but yeah.  Gouge out, round off, shape and contour.  And like I said they come in many shapes and sizes.

Scott