So, why DO we use cork?

[wazzou]

They make composite shims too.

[TLOC]

I remember TruScale wood road bed and it was loud and worst after ballasting. That was around 1974 and on my 1st layout. I much prefer cork roadbed since.

Tom

[Santa Fe Guy]

     After rail fanning the AT&SF from Chicago to Dallas whilst on holidays with a group of mates from down under we noticed just how hi track was on the mainlines. Study a profile drawing of the prototype and you will see what I mean.
    So when I started to build my SFRSD back in 94 I used 3mm cork sheet cut to a scale 8 feet wide and layed that down on either side of the track center line. Then a scale 9 feet went on top for all mainline tracks. For passing sidings same dims only I used 2mm cork then for the industry tracks that was layed on 3mm cork to whatever size the area needed.
    This gave me the track height I wanted for all three situations.
    When I ballasted the main I did the widest cork area first in a colour that was going to be slightly different to the top layer, let that dry, then applied the ballast around the track.
    Changing the colour of the ballast for the passing sidings and industry tracks from the main also helped. I also provided for drainage ditches by cutting my sub-roadbed using the cookie cutter style and attached the scenery foam from below allowing me to contour the scenery to match with Plaster gauze.
    So yes I am a big fan of using cork for several reasons, not just for sound deadening which was I believe its first use in the hobby.
Rod.

[wazzou]

Exactly @Santa Fe Guy, that's why when I modeled mainline ops, I mentioned upthread using HO cork with N glued to it.
Additionally, what is intriguing is when highways parallel the mainlines, and industrial spurs come off of the main and cross the highway or road the grade is pretty darned steep, typically dropping for some distance beside the mainline before angling across the road.

[dem34]

Exactly @Santa Fe Guy, that's why when I modeled mainline ops, I mentioned upthread using HO cork with N glued to it.
Additionally, what is intriguing is when highways parallel the mainlines, and industrial spurs come off of the main and cross the highway or road the grade is pretty darned steep, typically dropping for some distance beside the mainline before angling across the road.

Hard to find pictures but some of the abandoned sidings along the NEC really exemplify this, some of them have to be between %4-5.

[CRL]

The grade transition to sidings is so short that a 4-5% grade wouldn’t be a problem.

[MichaelWinicki]

Hard to find pictures but some of the abandoned sidings along the NEC really exemplify this, some of them have to be between %4-5.

We had many of those out this way also.

in addition many of our model RR industrial tracks are short and you probably do not want to leave a car on part of the trackage that has a grade to it– In other words that drop down from main height to siding height has to be short in many cases.

[OldEastRR]

If you want to uproot the track for some reason, after it's been glued down, the cork will be easy to pry off and take the rough wear and tear instead of damaging the track itself. 

[SandyEggoJake]

@DKS

Quote from: SandyEggoJake on October 18, 2019, 07:17:07 PM
Plus, with ACC, you can cleanly remove track from the roadbed with debonder should you wish to reposition.   Sure ACC may be more brittle than glue or caulk.  But with ballast glued down, I've yet had issues.

For Unitrack or other roadbed track, I use CA exclusively now to bond it to wood, Foamcore and other surfaces with excellent results.

ACC direct to pink Foamcore?  What about debonder?  Never considered it as a suitable direct substrate - but honestly never tried since I don't use "roadbed track" on my current home layouts, and Freemo-N requires use of roadbed that is 1/8" cork or equivalent for the through mainline.   

[RRRover]

At one time I had some Vinylbed and it was just right. About 3mm, better edge profiles, light gray color, no breaking in half to fit and a bit narrower - worked great with ME Flex. But at the time pricing was a bit steep, but worth it. I notice it's now called Flexxbed. 3/16" is the smallest nowadays. Maybe for the next layout in a couple of years...
https://hobbyinnovations.com/products

Rrrover

[MK]

@DKS

ACC direct to pink Foamcore?  What about debonder?  Never considered it as a suitable direct substrate - but honestly never tried since I don't use "roadbed track" on my current home layouts, and Freemo-N requires use of roadbed that is 1/8" cork or equivalent for the through mainline.

ACC or CA debonder is acetone based.  I doubt it would work too well with any type of foam(core)!  Unless the foam is EPO or EPP.  They are resistant to acetone and most solvents.

[peteski]

ACC or CA debonder is acetone based.  I doubt it would work too well with any type of foam(core)!  Unless the foam is EPO or EPP.  They are resistant to acetone and most solvents.

Most home insulating foams are polystyrene based.  As far as the acetone-based debonders go, they will work just fine - they will melt the foam around the glue joint!   

But seriously, I have seen nitromethane-based debonders too. Not sure how they will affect polystyrene.

[DKS]

I use Gatorfoam for my mini- and micro-layouts, which is very durable. Bonding roadbed track to it with CA not only works very well, but debonding it doesn't necessarily require acetone; a packing knife works just as well, and is a lot faster. (Ask me how I know this.)

[chuck geiger]

The smell of cork roadbed in the morning smells like victory. Yes it does bring back memories. My son loved the smell when we were building layouts.

[Angus Shops]

Cork scented CA?
G