So, why DO we use cork?

[EmdFan]

Like others I always used it because when I got started in the 70s and 80s everyone was using it. I like that it can be sanded to level out any high spots. I always sanded the sharp edge on the profile down, made ballasting easier.

One layout was built using Homabed, that was nice to work with and a very effective sound deadener.

Now that I'm about to start a layout on 2" EPS I am not sure what I will do, so I will be watching this thread with interest.

[MichaelWinicki]

One way to eliminate a lot of sanding in order to create a transition from mainline to industrial track is to use one of these:



They worked great on my pike.

[C855B]

One way to eliminate a lot of sanding in order to create a transition from mainline to industrial track is to use one of these:



They worked great on my pike.

For crying out loud. Why didn't I think of this? I have stashes of these shims scattered everywhere - layout room, workshop, two tool boxes, the house, our guest house - all for their intended purpose. And, yes, I've done a lot of sanding to make transitions.

(Thank you!)

[MichaelWinicki]

When I put down Woodland Scenics roadbed I used a sanding sponge to easily take the edge off the profile.

Thankfully I found WS roadbed to be rather uniform as far the height, so it didn't require any sanding down. 

[MichaelWinicki]

For crying out loud. Why didn't I think of this? I have stashes of these shims scattered everywhere - layout room, workshop, two tool boxes, the house, our guest house - all for their intended purpose. And, yes, I've done a lot of sanding to make transitions.

(Thank you!)

You're welcome sir!

[CRL]

If you’re laying track on a plywood surface, cork gives a slight roadbed above the hard “plywood plains” surface, but if you’re using foam, cork roadbed is counterproductive. It’s simple to carve a roadbed profile of various heights and breaks that hard flat surface appearance that’s way too common on many layouts and modules.

[glakedylan]

One way to eliminate a lot of sanding in order to create a transition from mainline to industrial track is to use one of these:



They worked great on my pike.

i needed transition from table top to WS 2% grade incline
these worked very well just cutting off the portion that is taller that the beginning of the grade starter


sincerely


G

[Chris333]

Those shims seem a little steep.

[dem34]

Those shims seem a little steep.

Grades off main lines to sidings tend to be in real life anyway.

http://photos.nerail.org/photos-original/2018/06/10/20180610113732697.jpg

Bit of forced perspective in the picture but seems to convey the idea.

[ednadolski]

Those shims seem a little steep.

They are also rather coarse and irregular for N-scale track.   I prefer thin balsa, which sands easily and can be built up in layers.

Ed

[davefoxx]

Those shims seem a little steep.

Not to mention that builders' shims do not allow for vertical easements.  I always let the track naturally flex down and then come back and shim, if even necessary, with pieces of scrap styrene to support the track.  Ballast will fill in the voids.

DFF

[Chris333]

Just saying... lets say the shim goes up to .25" thick and they are about 6" long, that is over 4% grade. I guess some shims are shorter and you can always sand them down.

[C855B]

Just saying... lets say the shim goes up to .25" thick and they are about 6" long, that is over 4% grade. I guess some shims are shorter and you can always sand them down.

Not completely unreasonable for transition down to an industry spur. Maybe even desirable, to keep cars on a less-than-level portion of the layout from rolling back into the main.

OTOH, my hand-sanded transitions seem to consistently be ~1.5% and have some vertical easement just by virtue of the sanding, so maybe I'm with your point after all.

[Point353]

Just saying... lets say the shim goes up to .25" thick and they are about 6" long, that is over 4% grade. I guess some shims are shorter and you can always sand them down.

They've already anticipated your concern and also make them in a 12" length:



https://www.shims.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/12_Beddar-Wood_42_Nelson-Wood-Shims.pdf

[MichaelWinicki]

They've already anticipated your concern and also make them in a 12" length:



https://www.shims.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/12_Beddar-Wood_42_Nelson-Wood-Shims.pdf

That's what I used.

Never thought the grade was extreme.  The transition looked good.

They were finished more than adequately to lay a short section of track on.  Over the last decade they've looked & worked just as they should and I'd use them again if I were to ever build another layout.