Bearden Bearing Block article has new address

[u18b]

A number of you keep the link handy to my Bearing Block Magic article which teaches how to improve many locos by removing the inner bearing blocks (otherwise known as Beardenizing).

I had to do some housekeeping recently, and the file had to be reloaded.   Still on my website:  http://u18b.com

The new address is:

http://u18b.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Bearingblock09.pdf

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Hmm.... the urge to buy "BeardanBearingBlockTrick.com" is suddenly strong... lol

[Mark5]

Thanks Ron!

[Sharky_McSharknose]

Apologies for the n00b question (and searching has been unclear to me).

Is a puller like this needed to perform "The Bearden"?

https://www.amazon.com/Mascot-Precision-Tools-Wheel-Puller-Adjustable/dp/B00065CLXI

[u18b]

Hi Sharky,

No.   That's overkill.

I just use my fingernails.

You will only be removing the hex nut interface that goes into the flywheel.  It is plastic.
You just pull it off the worm shaft.

The bearing then comes right off.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Hmm.... the urge to buy "BeardanBearingBlockTrick.com" is suddenly strong... lol

"Cure all your engine troubles with this one neat trick"

[idog]

Has it ever been necessary to use something like CA or E6000 or Loctite to ensure the hex nut inside the flywheel is snug on the shaft? Not saying that some of us might have accidentally made the fit of the hex nut on the shaft looser than it used to be before Beardenizing

[MK]

If using Loctite, make sure it's CA or some kind of adhesive and not their threadlocker.  Loctite the threadlocker causes plastics to become brittle.

As for whether you need it, I've never heard of anyone using it but it won't hurt if that someone you know made it looser than it needs to be. 

[rrjim1]

I have used Loctite 620 retaining compound for years without any problems. Joints still working great on those old Kato built Atlas locos.  I use the 620 because without heat it's only half strength but it's still very strong.

[diezmon]

great idea.     

Not to go off the rails here, but what was the reason for the 'spring in the flywheel' trick?  Not to be confused with the 'banana in the tailpipe" trick.  Was the universal coming apart?

[peteski]

great idea.     

Not to go off the rails here, but what was the reason for the 'spring in the flywheel' trick?  Not to be confused with the 'banana in the tailpipe" trick.  Was the universal coming apart?

This is the first time I have seen this type of modification. I imagine it is to reduce  the noise in the drive.  Thedrive shaft  in the universal has fore and aft play. The spring, by exerting  pressure on the drive shaft, eliminates that play. At least that is how I suspect this works.

[learmoia]

Hmm.... the urge to buy "BeardanBearingBlockTrick.com" is suddenly strong... lol

Goes to Lowes.. Buys a box of springs, cuts them to size.. Sells modification kits for $9.99.. plus $19.99 processing handling.

~ian

[Steveruger45]

This is the first time I have seen this type of modification. I imagine it is to reduce  the noise in the drive.  Thedrive shaft  in the universal has fore and aft play. The spring, by exerting  pressure on the drive shaft, eliminates that play. At least that is how I suspect this works.

I’ve actually done the this on a several locos over the years for quieting down a noisy drive.  It does work most of the time.  I rather do this now only after I have tried other fixes such as beardenizing.   I have used  either a cut down Rapido coupler spring or a complete MT axle spring.

[davefoxx]

When Beardenizing, I always adjusted the universal on the worm gear shaft such that there was just a little bit of end-to-end play to eliminate binding.  Doing this, I see no need for the spring.  Besides, each time you take your locomotive apart, you could put an eye out with that thing, kid! 

DFF

[Steveruger45]

When Beardenizing, I always adjusted the universal on the worm gear shaft such that there was just a little bit of end-to-end play to eliminate binding.  Doing this, I see no need for the spring.  Besides, each time you take your locomotive apart, you could put an eye out with that thing, kid! 

DFF

Hi Dave,
To be clear I don’t do the spring thing when I do a beardenizing thing.  It’s an either/ or case.
But sometimes you can’t do a beardenizing thing such as when there is a universal that needs to have both bearing blocks in.  Then the spring thing is something to consider, and it often works.
I have found that To quiet down a noisy drive it can be a little more of an art rather than a science in a trial and error step by step sort of way.
  I have spent days sometimes to get a growler to go quiet.  One Atlas B40-8 really tested my patience. But by continuously thinking “We shall endeavor to persevere”  and “we shall never surrender” I got the sucker quiet in the end.  That one was the truck gears, BTW.

The spring thing is just another arrow to the quiver to be considered in the quest to get those growlers quiet.