Making TTRAK Modules

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Now I know that many of you will have PLENTY of advice on how to do every aspect of this better, but... over the weekend I was asked for a quick write up on how I make my TTRAK modules.

So, since Terri is out of town, I had plenty of time to get to work.

http://conrail1285.com/making-ttrak-modules/



I thought it might be helpful here too.

[BuddyBorders]

Nice write up Ed. Thank you. I have forwarded your page to our favorite librarian who is interested in trying to get the kids involved.

-Buddy

[nthusiast]

Bookmarked. Thanks for sharing.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Nice write up Ed. Thank you. I have forwarded your page to our favorite librarian who is interested in trying to get the kids involved.

-Buddy

Excellent!

[John]

I should build one of these ..

[NorsemanJack]

Thanks for posting this.  Is that "Long sides are 14.25" on the first graphic a typo?

[paggs]

We're starting a new project about getting started in N scale with T-Trak for NSR in 2020.

[Lemosteam]

Certainly not a criticism, but I have never liked exposed T nuts as they eventually will work themselves loose.  What I prefer is to counterbore the block from the styrofoam side and trap a rod-coupling nut inside the hole.  Drill a hole just undersize of the dimension across points and tap the nut into the hole.  The nut will follow the counterbore and center on it. This will leave pockets all along the flats of the nut. Drizzle some epoxy or even yellow glue in these pockets and the nut will NEVER rotate in the hole. One advantage of this is the carriage bolt will have the same amount of adjustment, but will allow a longer thread engagement inside the nut with less wobble on the bolt and the nut will never loosen or come out at all.

@Ed Kapuscinski , sorry for my ignorance, is there a formula to calculate side lengths that will work with other modules? 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, etc.?

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I should build one of these ..

Yep! You DEFINITELY should.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Thanks for posting this.  Is that "Long sides are 14.25" on the first graphic a typo?

Why yes, yes it is. Thanks!

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Certainly not a criticism, but I have never liked exposed T nuts as they eventually will work themselves loose.  What I prefer is to counterbore the block from the styrofoam side and trap a rod-coupling nut inside the hole.  Drill a hole just undersize of the dimension across points and tap the nut into the hole.  The nut will follow the counterbore and center on it. This will leave pockets all along the flats of the nut. Drizzle some epoxy or even yellow glue in these pockets and the nut will NEVER rotate in the hole. One advantage of this is the carriage bolt will have the same amount of adjustment, but will allow a longer thread engagement inside the nut with less wobble on the bolt and the nut will never loosen or come out at all.

@Ed Kapuscinski , sorry for my ignorance, is there a formula to calculate side lengths that will work with other modules? 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, etc.?

That's totally a good solution. You're absolutely right about the t nuts working loose over time. I think we've had to replace the ones on my Strasburg NTRAK module once or twice (in its 30 years... wow, f***, that's a long time). I like your solution. Some other good options are allthread connectors or threaded inserts too. I go with t nuts cause I've been doing it that way for ages. Adding a little glue can help with pull out too. The one thing that makes me less worried about all of this is that, compared to NTRAK modules that often get tossed in trailers and somewhat abused, TTRAK modules tend to live a much more charmed life.

[randgust]

Working with T-trak modules has let me play with modeling the PRR scenes from the 1920's instead of tearing down my entire layout and starting over, and I don't have the space for two layouts anyway.   I'm more interested in the local history and prototype scenes than just the PRR equipment per-se, the PRR just is 'there'.  But you can just do so much with T-trak that you can't easily do with N-trak, and it starts with that 3-track main line and curve geometry limits.    And I'm the renegade now doing 1-track modules by throwing the second inner main behind a narrower version with the skyboard moved closer in but still fitting the 14" total.   I've also done an Nn3 oval on a standard triple, using Rokuhan track components.

And I've got HO friends converted over as well, same deal, they aren't willing to scrap a complete layout but building a couple T-trak modules is a great way to dabble in N without a huge investment or commitment of time and money.   

[Point353]

But you can just do so much with T-trak that you can't easily do with N-trak, and it starts with that 3-track main line and curve geometry limits.

The NTRAK standards don't constrain you to "that 3-track main line."
There's a common interface requirement at the ends of modules (or groups of modules), but in between you have a great degree of freedom for the track arrangement. 
Minimum curve radii (24" for the two mains and 18" for the branch) are admittedly greater than for T-Trak.

[CRL]

IMHO, NTrak would have been better off if they had originally gone with the “alternate” branch line location. That change produces better looking modules with more variation. Also, better operational options.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Working with T-trak modules has let me play with modeling the PRR scenes from the 1920's instead of tearing down my entire layout and starting over, and I don't have the space for two layouts anyway.   I'm more interested in the local history and prototype scenes than just the PRR equipment per-se, the PRR just is 'there'.  But you can just do so much with T-trak that you can't easily do with N-trak, and it starts with that 3-track main line and curve geometry limits.    And I'm the renegade now doing 1-track modules by throwing the second inner main behind a narrower version with the skyboard moved closer in but still fitting the 14" total.   I've also done an Nn3 oval on a standard triple, using Rokuhan track components.

And I've got HO friends converted over as well, same deal, they aren't willing to scrap a complete layout but building a couple T-trak modules is a great way to dabble in N without a huge investment or commitment of time and money.   

Precisely!

It lets you build "snacks". Or, umm... have mistresses.