Atlas Code 80 rail joiners

[cjp53]

Anyone use the plastic rail joiners,I'm putting together Code 80 track with the metal joiners but what a PITA and have bleeding fingers plus they are not holding the track together very well.I'm not at any point to solder them just laying the track out ,then will put in the cork bed.With the plastic looks like no solder.Are they better?

[wvgca]

tthe plastic are insulated ... is that what you want ???... different colors = different hardness

[mu26aeh]

As a friend of mine says " If you're not bleeding, you're not modeling "    

Plastic would only be if you need to insulate, you'd have no power going from section to section.  Are you using Atlas track as well ?  I just finished redoing my layout, code 80 everything and it's all nice and tight.

[cjp53]

No I did not want insulated,I never seen those before.I have a large HO layout I did almost 30 years ago done with flex and have been away from the hobby until a friend got my interest in N scale started.I'm not up on the latest and at 66 my eyes are not what they used to be.I have to hit the train shop for more joiners and the drugstore for band aids.

[cjp53]

As a friend of mine says " If you're not bleeding, you're not modeling "    

Plastic would only be if you need to insulate, you'd have no power going from section to section.  Are you using Atlas track as well ?  I just finished redoing my layout, code 80 everything and it's all nice and tight.

Yes Atlas Code 80 curved pieces 19 inch radius and flex track for my straight.I cut the joiners apart with wire cutters and that's how the sharp edges made the fingers bleed.Do they have metal joiners that need no cutting without sharp edges?I would get those.lol

[peteski]

A pair of needle nose pliers might be helpful.  I also seem to recall that there is a rail joiner installation tool available somewhere (from Atlas maybe)?

If you are building a permanent layout then I would recommend soldering the joiners to the track. Also, they should not be loose when installed on the track  (I wonder why yours are?).  If not soldering the joiners, for reliable (and frustration-free) running, you should solder electric feeders to every section of track.

Have you looked into Kato Unitrack?  It is easier to deal with and joining the track segments is pain-free (but there is a higher price to pay for that track system).

[Curtis Kyger]

It sounds like your hurting your fingers trying to slide stubborn joiners on the rail.  I suggest you make the process significantly easier by taking a mill file and lightly taper the edges of the base of the rail in a 45 degree angle, and then same for the base of the rail with an upward stroke. As you get used to doing this you'll find the process quick and painless, and the joiners slide right on with minimal effort too.  Make sure you're either removing the end ties on the flex track or using a chisel Exacto blade to remove the spike heads on the last ties on each flex piece.  Also, as you cut the individual brass joiners from the strip, sometimes the long flat tab that goes under the base of the rail will get bent. I occasionally have to use my orange handled rail nippers to lightly press the tabs back into straightness before attempting to slide them onto the rail.

[mu26aeh]

A pair of needle nose pliers might be helpful.  I also seem to recall that there is a rail joiner installation tool available somewhere (from Atlas maybe)?

If you are building a permanent layout then I would recommend soldering the joiners to the track. Also, they should not be loose when installed on the track  (I wonder why yours are?).  If not soldering the joiners, for reliable (and frustration-free) running, you should solder electric feeders to every section of track.

Have you looked into Kato Unitrack?  It is easier to deal with and joining the track segments is pain-free (but there is a higher price to pay for that track system).

No affiliation, but here's a link for the Atlas Sidekick

https://shop.atlasrr.com/p-48003-all-scales-rail-joiner-sidekick.aspx

[cjp53]

A pair of needle nose pliers might be helpful.  I also seem to recall that there is a rail joiner installation tool available somewhere (from Atlas maybe)?

If you are building a permanent layout then I would recommend soldering the joiners to the track. Also, they should not be loose when installed on the track  (I wonder why yours are?).  If not soldering the joiners, for reliable (and frustration-free) running, you should solder electric feeders to every section of track.

Have you looked into Kato Unitrack?  It is easier to deal with and joining the track segments is pain-free (but there is a higher price to pay for that track system).

I plan on soldering,I think trying to force them on may have spread the joiners and made them loose.After I get the cork bed down I'll solder each piece as I lay the track.I was putting the track together today to see if I need to trim my foam board to fit in the corner of the room.I have a tight space to work the layout.I will trace the outline of the oval and install the cork road.Also I scratched built a truss bridge and covered bridge and need to know where I want them.I'm going to raise the track about 2 inches above the foam board to put my bridges in.I also made a barn and some farm buildings as well as a windmill I'm just finishing up.I don't like the Kato track as it would not look good with my bridges I scratched built as the Kato track is to high with the base it's on.If that makes sense.I made a covered bridge for a friend who has Kato track and because of the height of the track he has problems running some cars through it.I did the same with my HO layout,made my own covered bridges and attached the track to the floor of the bridges.cork bed and flex track for the rest of the layout.

[narrowminded]

Atlas makes a fairly inexpensive tool for installing joiners for just the reason you've experienced.  I don't solder rail joiners after one early experience with trying to unsolder joiners from some turnouts.  Instead I use wire feeders to each piece of rail or sometimes, on turnouts only (Rokuhan specifically), a joiner that has a wire soldered to it and then slid onto the turnout.

On my new handlaid code 40 track where I have bent the rails to fit I'm using no joiners.  The tie bed is glued to the board and the curved rails are formed to the radius so there is no spring back tension trying to straighten the rails at each joint.  The molded in tie plates serve as guides for installation as well as mechanically supporting the rail position after the attachment glue has set.  With flex track the last inch or two of rail before a joint could be bent to the shape required or even threaded several ties in to the next piece of tie bed to accomplish a similar result.  The attached link to a thread with posts from @DKS  as well as @robert3985 have more on this method.  That combination has proven not to need joiners.  It also makes for a very clean installation and doesn't require the extra step after all track is laid of sanding and fitting ties under all of the rail joiner positions.

Link: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44435.msg572397#msg572397

[CRL]

Since I use Peco code 55 flex track, I also use the Peco rail joiners which are very tight and are well hidden when installed on the lower buried web of the rail. With a small amount of flux, the solder is wicked into the joint with just a quick touch of the iron. I also solder the wire drops to the notch between the buried web and the visible web on the outside of the rail. When painted & ballasted, the drop is almost invisible.

[wm3798]

The Atlas joiners come in a strip of four.  Without separating them, I slide the first one on, then snip it free from the strip.  Lather, rinse, repeat.  It usually doesn't take much pressure, and saves a lot of wear and tear on the fingers.
In the old days, Atlas track came with the joiners already installed.  Such luxury!
And take some time to practice soldering your track joints.  It is literally the difference between enjoying the hobby and throwing your trains in a bonfire.
Lee

[MK]

https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/atlas-401-all-scales-rail-joiner-sidekick-tool/?ne_ppc_id=1079742151&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoKzsBRC5ARIsAITcwXHhvzbxZ1KOC_sQnMuTLUReKVZ2huvnwR5hTKs1wU6FJ-IEFFPeo50aAso0EALw_wcB

[SecretWeapon]

MK, I used that tool 1 time & broke it! those joiners suck. I've complained about to Atlas. They are too small. I used pliers & opened the gaps with a small glasses screwdriver. I have a good sized layout with 4 mainlines. i've cursed out Atlas & everyone that works there with every cut. On the other hand, I just came across Life-Like rail joiners from the 70's or early 80's. They went on perfectly! Just like the Atlas ones from the past.  It was a pleasure redoing an area on my layout. I hope Atlas revisits the dimensions of the track & joiners & gets them right.

[wm3798]

Okay.  An illustrated primer.  No extra tools needed.

Do not separate the joiners!  Even the plumpest of digits can work with a strip of 4.  Slide the first joiner on like so.



Now simply bend the strip back and forth until it snaps off. Like so!



No jagged end to hurt yourself on, no special tools required.  And when you get down to the final joined of the strip, throw it away and go spend $1.79 on a box of extra joiners.

I hope you find this information helpful.



Lee