Problems with DCC

[Bangorboy]

Sorry if my previous post sounded a$$haterish, I didn't mean it to be.

Umm, did you mean a$$HATERish, or did you really mean a$$HATTERish?  Just askin' fer unnerstandin's sake.

[Hawghead]

Umm, did you mean a$$HATERish, or did you really mean a$$HATTERish?  Just askin' fer unnerstandin's sake.

Hummm, a$$hat, a$$hater or a$$hatter... words are hard.  I'm gonna go with a$$hatter, because my mother always told me, you may dislike someone but you never a$$hater them. 

Scott

[Hawghead]

Update:

Replaced all the layout wiring (just six wires) using T-Taps and spade connectors.  I checked continuity at each step, even checked resistance across each track joiner solder joint (0 ohms) .  I checked the output of the P/S and it measured 13.5 volts.  Hooked up the Power Cab and measured 13 VAC at the rails.  Tried the SW-7 and if still exhibited the same issues.  I didn't try the Blackstone K-27, but it's looking more and more like I bought a couple of lemons.  I'll know for sure in a few days when the new Blackstone C-19 shows up.

Thanks,
Scott

[peteski]

Update:

Replaced all the layout wiring (just six wires) using T-Taps and spade connectors.  I checked continuity at each step, even checked resistance across each track joiner solder joint (0 ohms) .  I checked the output of the P/S and it measured 13.5 volts.  Hooked up the Power Cab and measured 13 VAC at the rails.  Tried the SW-7 and if still exhibited the same issues.  I didn't try the Blackstone K-27, but it's looking more and more like I bought a couple of lemons.  I'll know for sure in a few days when the new Blackstone C-19 shows up.

Thanks,
Scott

That's what we have been trying to tell you all along: the DCC system is likely ok.  Good to see you come around and start the troubleshooting again.  Hey, if the problem ends up being the Power Cab, I'll eat my    !
 

But even if it ends up not being the Power Cab, you should still consider upgrading it.  With your electronics background you seem to be capable of opening the throttle case and replacing the socketed microcontroller chip.  So you could just email NCE and ask them to send you the most current chip. They will probably do that at no (or minimal) charge.

[Mike C]

Update:

Replaced all the layout wiring (just six wires) using T-Taps and spade connectors.  I checked continuity at each step, even checked resistance across each track joiner solder joint (0 ohms) .  I checked the output of the P/S and it measured 13.5 volts.  Hooked up the Power Cab and measured 13 VAC at the rails.  Tried the SW-7 and if still exhibited the same issues.  I didn't try the Blackstone K-27, but it's looking more and more like I bought a couple of lemons.  I'll know for sure in a few days when the new Blackstone C-19 shows up.

Thanks,
Scott

  If the decoder is fried I would seriously consider switching to the newest Tsunami 2 decoder . I put one in my C 25 and really really like it .   And have you checked out the HOn3 yardsale IO group ?  I've been seeing K27's and C19's going for around 350 ....Mike

[Hawghead]

But even if it ends up not being the Power Cab, you should still consider upgrading it.  With your electronics background you seem to be capable of opening the throttle case and replacing the socketed microcontroller chip.  So you could just email NCE and ask them to send you the most current chip. They will probably do that at no (or minimal) charge.

Pete,
Oh I planned on upgrading to the latest firmware version either way.  However the chip isn't free, it $30.00 plus shipping.  I just wanted it to be the Power Cab so I wouldn't look like a complete chump who got snookered not once but twice buying locomotives from unknown people on the internet.

If the decoder is fried I would seriously consider switching to the newest Tsunami 2 decoder . I put one in my C 25 and really really like it .   And have you checked out the HOn3 yardsale IO group ?  I've been seeing K27's and C19's going for around 350 ....Mike

Mike,
If I have to replace the decoder I'll certainly go with the tsunami II.  As for the HOn3 yardsale IO group, where do you think I got the K-27 that doesn't work   

 

[peteski]

Pete,
Oh I planned on upgrading to the latest firmware version either way.  However the chip isn't free, it $30.00 plus shipping.  I just wanted it to be the Power Cab so I wouldn't look like a complete chump who got snookered not once but twice buying locomotives from unknown people on the internet.

Hmm.  I got the chip for free at the NCE booth, few years ago at the Springfield show.  I guess I just lucked out.

Hey, we all get burned from time to time. There is no shame in that.  If they turn out to be duds, and you got the models through eBay and the description stated that they are in working condition, you might be able to get a refund.

[Dave V]

Scott, which C-19 is it?  Inquiring narrow gauge minds want to know!

Also, before you give up all hope on the K-27...  Removing the tender is relatively easy--Blackstone even has a YouTube video that shows you how to do it--and the board is so big and in-your-face that you can pretty quickly tell if it's at least physically intact.  Mine had a melted component and had that toasty electronics smell.

I didn't read all the way back to see if you'd attempted to reset the K-27 to factory defaults, but if not, that'd be the very next step before you even bother to try to open up the tender.  I don't recall for certain but I think even though they come from the factory with the road number already programmed in, that reseting the decoder to factory default resets the loco's address to 03.  In case she won't respond at all to her road number after you reset, you may want to try that.

[Hawghead]

Hmm.  I got the chip for free at the NCE booth, few years ago at the Springfield show.  I guess I just lucked out.

Hey, we all get burned from time to time. There is no shame in that.  If they turn out to be duds, and you got the models through eBay and the description stated that they are in working condition, you might be able to get a refund.

Got the SW-7 through ebay and it does work, just not very well and I bought it several weeks ago and never tried it before now (shame on me).  Now the one from the HOn3 yard sale IO groups does kinda piss me off a little as I asked several questions about the locomotive and was assured it was in good working order.  Now it could be something as simple a one of the motor leads coming off during shipping, I'll have to open it up and see if there is anything obviously wrong.

Thanks,
Scott

[Hawghead]

Scott, which C-19 is it?  Inquiring narrow gauge minds want to know!

Also, before you give up all hope on the K-27...  Removing the tender is relatively easy--Blackstone even has a YouTube video that shows you how to do it--and the board is so big and in-your-face that you can pretty quickly tell if it's at least physically intact.  Mine had a melted component and had that toasty electronics smell.

I didn't read all the way back to see if you'd attempted to reset the K-27 to factory defaults, but if not, that'd be the very next step before you even bother to try to open up the tender.  I don't recall for certain but I think even though they come from the factory with the road number already programmed in, that reseting the decoder to factory default resets the loco's address to 03.  In case she won't respond at all to her road number after you reset, you may want to try that.

Dave,

It's RGS number 40 with the sunrise herald.  I wasn't going to buy another locomotive for awhile but the CFO told me to and who am I to argue with SWMBO.

I really think the issue is power to the motor or the motor itself.  All the sounds other than the chuff, because well...it doesn't move.  Could be that the problem is in the connection between the tender and the engine as the headlight doesn't work either.  Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the only thing that goes between the tender and the engine is motor and headlight power?

Thanks,
Scott

[Dave V]

Dave,

It's RGS number 40 with the sunrise herald.  I wasn't going to buy another locomotive for awhile but the CFO told me to and who am I to argue with SWMBO.

I really think the issue is power to the motor or the motor itself.  All the sounds other than the chuff, because well...it doesn't move.  Could be that the problem is in the connection between the tender and the engine as the headlight doesn't work either.  Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the only thing that goes between the tender and the engine is motor and headlight power?

Thanks,
Scott

I thought there was a cam in the engine for chuff rate...

[Maletrain]

Regarding the cost of the PowerCab chip, I also got one for free at the Springfield show this past January.  But, I had a 1.65 ship, that has a flaw, so they were willing to give me the 1.65B chip for free to replace that.  I think the actual upgrade from the 1.28 chip to the 1.65 version always cost $30, at least unless there was a booth vendor who liked you.  Of course, the guy was just taking my word for the fact that I had the 1.65notB version, rather than the 1.28 version.  But, it cost me more to go to Springfield than $30, anyway.

[peteski]

But, it cost me more to go to Springfield than $30, anyway.

But I suspect it was money well spent (besides getting the upgrade chip for free).   

[MK]

Hawghead, eBay/PayPal gives you a 6 month period to file a dispute since what was described was not what you got.  So if you don't want to deal with all the fuss and potentially more money for new decoders, I would just file a dispute.  Problem solved!

[LIRR]

did you try thinking about it about a beer?