So I bought a Bowser Pennsy GLa hopper😬

[Cajonpassfan]

I read somewhere that an ocassional load or two of eastern coal made it to L.A. harbor for steam ship fuel and such, so I bought a Bowser Pennsy hopper to get some equipment variety for my SoCal layout. The GLa looked pretty nice in the hobby shop, but first run out, the coupler box (Accumate?) blew up, and when I tried to fix it on my workbench, the other coupler blew up on me. WTeitch?
Well, whatever, as frustrating as it is to have this happen in this day and age on a brand new product, I figured I'll just bodymount MT's, as the car has conveniently located holes in the metal underframe. Not so fast, the 1015 is too thick and the screw protrudes into the space where the axle is supposed to be, and the 1023's are nice and thin but too long 
and even when filed back, stick out too far
Since this is an SPF-heavy site, I'd figure I ask for advice here: what do you guys do with these?

My other beef with this car is that the slope sheets are covered with thick metal castings to provide weight, but look butt ugly, and still don't provide enough weight. This makes the car only useful as a loaded car (it does come with a decent coal load casting), which makes it a one-way car on my layout (don't want to ship coal to Newcastle or up Cajon Pass, either). I suppose one could fashion thin slope sheet overlays to cover the gaps, but all this just seems too much trouble for a "RTR" car I didn't really need in the first place....

Coupler [ Guests cannot view attachments ] suggestions appreciated,
Otto K.

[peteski]

You can trim the back of 1023/25 quite a bit. Just leave enough to make sure the spring has no way to pop out.  You might then be able to shoe-horn it in that space.

Or (I hate to mention this), maybe you could use a McHenry or Bachman EZ-Mate couplers?  They have very short coupler boxes.

[central.vermont]

Otto,
would a Z scale 907 coupler fit there?

Jon

[chicken45]

The screws will always protrude. Simply cut them down. I never worked on a GLa, but I tinkered with a H21.
If you look closely, you'll see where I stopped caring and apparently didn't cut down the screws.



I remember filing the bolsters down and doing some other stuff. @bbussey was super helpful.

[Tom L]

Here's mine using a 1015. I countersunk the hole and used a flathead screw, which provides enough clearance/vertical play to operate with no rubbing. I'm using FVM wheels and the original trucks.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]


Tom L
Wellington CO

[bbussey]

I did my GLa hoppers a long time ago, so I don't remember what my final MTL coupler solution was.  But if the coupler box is too thick, use 1015 knuckles in a 2004 box.  That shaves at least .020" off the box height.  And yes, I removed my slope weights.  I kept the trucks because they are PRR prototype and swapped in metal wheels.  And yes, you will need to snip the protruding coupler screw shaft.

[nkalanaga]

A 1023/1025 should fit there.  As Peteski said, the box can be shortened a lot, and the mounting hole and height are the same as for the 1015.  One trick is to mount the 1025 turned sideways, screw it on ALMOST tight, then shorten the box.  That way it can't come apart!  Then turn it straight and tighten it down.  You will have to remove the lip on the lid.

You can also countersink the screw hole on a 1025, preferably before assembly, and use a flathead screw.  I use a 3/32 inch drill bit, turned in my fingers, to do that, as you don't want to DRILL the hole, just scrape the plastic off.  That will give more axle clearance.

And, yes, I wish MT would make a stock 1015 with a thinner box.  The current design was developed to replace pilot couplers on locomotives, where it fit fine, but is too obvious under the end of a freight car.  I still use 1025s anywhere they'll fit.

[peteski]

And yes, you will need to snip the protruding coupler screw shaft.

Or shorten it, and dress the threads *BEFORE* attaching the coupler.  Snipping it after it is installed will crush the threads. If you ever have to replace the coupler, unscrewing that snipped screw will damage the threads in the plastic.

[Mark5]

Must be an older release - current releases come with body mounts and metal wheels.

I gotta point out that I got frustrated with the few earlier run (truck mounted) examples that I had and unloaded them.

Mark

[Cajonpassfan]

Thanks guys, all good suggestions. Appreciated. Tttt
This car is a "runner" and so I wanted to avoid 905's here; I know they are supposed to be just as good, but that's not my experience with heavy trains on grades.
Actually, the 1023's worked out fine. I had to shorten them and file the bolster side a little, but all's good. The coupler screw goes into metal for a nice solid connection. While I was at it, I made new slope sheet overlays to cover the gaping holes, replaced the plastic wheels with Fox Valley's and gave the car a quickie weathering job. It now weighs 18grams (.6oz) without load, not too bad for a 30' car so I can run it both ways now.
All in all, a nice and unique addition to the fleet... but I do need to replace that fat brake wheel, now that I see pictures.
Otto

[Curtis Kyger]

On the side view of the car; that air hose is way too low.

[Cajonpassfan]

On the side view of the car; that air hose is way too low.

No kidding...
That "hose" is getting clipped.
Otto

[SP-Wolf]

That is an awesome looking car.

Wolf

[Cajonpassfan]

Yea, Wolf, thanks! A bit of the "rust belt" here in sunny SoCal 
Otto [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[chicken45]

Awesome job!
I also enjoyed the interior weathering!