N scale turntable preferences?

[Bill H]

Group:
If money was not that much of an object, if you had your druthers or a chance to do it over again - what turntable would you choose? Preferably DDC or remotely operated?

Kind regards,
Bill

[wm3798]

I had the Walthers' turntable released around 2008, non-DCC in the original run.  It looked great, operated well, and was reasonably easy to program. 



Note that I added the running lights.  They were powered by the track DCC current.

Sadly, I shorted out the controller in 2011, and was unable to get a replacement since they had changed it up to the DCC model now available, and didn't offer replacement parts.  I never got the newer version, partly because I was irritated with Walthers for not supporting the early version with parts, and partly because the layout's days were numbered.

I imagine the new version looks about the same, and should work fine.  As for parts support, I can't say.
Lee

[pdx1955]

If $$ was no object, I'd go with a AAA Precision model - all indexed, motorized and pre-built but I don't know if they are still around. For me, getting the right diameter is important, so I got a Diamond Scale kit in the pile to do. If I just wanted a turntable, I'd get the latest Walthers 134' model - it can handle anything. the Kato would work too, if a shorter one was ok. Thirdly there's nothing wrong with motorizing a 65' Peco . You can use an accessory decoder to make it work on DCC with a auto-reverser to handle the track polarity. 

[nkalanaga]

There was a topic a while back that had links to a company that makes motorized versions of the Peco turntable.  You might need the auto-reverser for DCC, but for DC it works fine on its own.  Mine is controlled, through a toggle switch, from the handheld throttle.  Run the engine on, flip the switch, run the turntable, flip it back, run the engine off.  Basically, it's just another block, like the roundhouse tracks.

[pmpexpress]

There was a topic a while back that had links to a company that makes motorized versions of the Peco turntable.  You might need the auto-reverser for DCC, but for DC it works fine on its own.  Mine is controlled, through a toggle switch, from the handheld throttle.  Run the engine on, flip the switch, run the turntable, flip it back, run the engine off.  Basically, it's just another block, like the roundhouse tracks.

Locomotech

https://www.locomotech.com/

https://www.locomotech.com/orderonline.html

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=46563.msg609938#msg609938

[MVW]

Locomotech

https://www.locomotech.com/

https://www.locomotech.com/orderonline.html

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=46563.msg609938#msg609938

Thanks for the links. I caught at least some of the earlier discussion, but didn't recall this company.

Jim

[jdcolombo]

I have one of the Walthers 'tables.  My original one developed cracked gears, and of course Walthers doesn't stock parts for anything.  Horrible.  But the table works great otherwise, so I bought a second one to use the bridge from.  So far it has worked flawlessly, and I think there is a secondary source for gears for broken bridge #1, so I'm going to try to fix that one to have as a spare.

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I absolutely despise Walthers for not supporting expensive stuff they sell (try getting parts for a 2-8-8-2 that cost well over $200 in the day).  If there was any other pre-built option that would accommodate large steam locos, I'd ditch Walthers in a heartbeat.  But there isn't.  The Kato and Peco are too small. 

John C.

[alhoop]

................................ and I think there is a secondary source for gears for broken bridge #1, so I'm going to try to fix that one to have as a spare.


John C.

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=39946.0
Here is a link on replacing those cracked gears that  also contains a link to a source for those gears. Unfortunately it appears the link is no
longer valid. Do you have another source?
Thanks
Al Hooper

[nkalanaga]

"The Kato and Peco are too small"

Very true.  Mine is used for Nn3, with the new track, on PC board ties, soldered to the Peco rails.  Once new walkways are installed none of the standard gauge track is visible, and all of the electrical stuff works just as Peco intended.  Just be sure to gap BOTH sides of the new ties!

[Cajonpassfan]

If $$ was no object, I'd go with a AAA Precision model - all indexed, motorized and pre-built but I don't know if they are still around. For me, getting the right diameter is important, so I got a Diamond Scale kit in the pile to do. If I just wanted a turntable, I'd get the latest Walthers 134' model - it can handle anything. the Kato would work too, if a shorter one was ok. Thirdly there's nothing wrong with motorizing a 65' Peco . You can use an accessory decoder to make it work on DCC with a auto-reverser to handle the track polarity.

Peter, getting the right diameter is important to me also, and while I have the Walthers turntable (still in its box) it's too big (and the wrong type) for my San Bernardino facilities. What can you tell me about the Diamond scale TT? I believe it's a 120 foot truss? Is it a well made kit?
Thanks, Otto

Oh, never mind, I just looked up their website and the N Scale versions come in 100 and 135 foot lengths, girder bridge only.
O.

[mmagliaro]

Using the WayBack Machine, I was able to dig out the specs on the Gizmoszone gears you cited for repairing the Walthers turntable that are no longer available (because it appears Gizmoszone has gone kaput).

GM0.5-10-19
Module 0.5, 10 teeth, 1.9mm bore, 5mm width

GM0.5-14-19
Module 0.5, 14 teeth, 1.9mm bore, 5mm width

If you go here:
https://shop.kkpmo.com/product_info.php?info=p701_gearwheel-pinion-m0-5---10teeth.html

You can get Mod 0.5, 10 teeth, or 14 teeth, in 5 mm width.  The only catch is that they don't make one with a 1.9mm bore.
I find 1.9mm to be a weird bore.  Even in English units, it is .0748", which doesn't work out to anything.  5/64" is the closest thing
and that's still .078" which is almost exactly 2mm.

I think I would order them in 1.5mm and 2.0mm bore, and then see what works best, even if I had to ream out the 1.5mm one to get a good fit.

If you have one of these turntables and can measure the gear shaft diameter accurately with a caliper, report back in here
so we know what the real shaft size is.

Oh... and I should point out that kkpmo has these gears in white acetal, but also in black and also in BRASS.  So if you want to put gears in there that aren't going to crack, there ya go.

[pdx1955]

Peter, getting the right diameter is important to me also, and while I have the Walthers turntable (still in its box) it's too big (and the wrong type) for my San Bernardino facilities. What can you tell me about the Diamond scale TT? I believe it's a 120 foot truss? Is it a well made kit?
Thanks, Otto

Oh, never mind, I just looked up their website and the N Scale versions come in 100 and 135 foot lengths, girder bridge only.
O.

MR in the late eighties I think had a series on building a truss turntable that would be a good reference.  Alternatively,  you could take the pit from the crappy 120' walthers/Heiljan and build a new bridge /shaft assembly. Use of slip rings /split shaft would alleviate the need for a powered pit rail.

[Cajonpassfan]

Yes Peter, I have that somewhere. That truss was built of styrene if I recall correctly, and I was going to do mine in brass for strength,  use the old Hellman pit and rig a mechanism somehow. But then the ready made DCC indexed Walthers 135 footer came along and it was just too tempting, so I bought one. I'm now having second thoughts about it because it's way too big; it may seem that 15' extra feet in N scale is no big deal, but the area if the Walther's pit is actually over 26% larger... a significant amount that also impacts the roundhouse dimensions, even more significantly.
Otto

[Mark5]

Most of the turntables out there are too small for a "modern steam railroad". Ideally I would like a 115' (or 120' turntable). For years I was going to use the old Heljan (Concor, Then Walthers) 120', but recently I just decided to go with the Walthers 135' DCC (getting lazy in my old age).

If a more suitable turntable emerges by the time I get my next house, then I will look closely at that.

Mark

[rgengineoiler]

My Turntable is a Diamond Scale 135 foot model.  They are, or were, a Craftsman kit and I believe I bought and built it in the 90's.  When I torn down my old layout in 2010 and started a new one I saved this turntable and it is on my current build.  I cleaned all the gears and lubed it up and it operates perfectly and really looks great and allows all of my Steamers on the bridge with no length problems.  As far as I know, they are not producing them anymore but the website is still up so maybe there is a chance you could get one on special order by contacting them.  The base is a heavy Plaster casting with a brass arch in center of the bridge and individual piece fence in wood and has a operators house.  It also comes with a brass power pole and wire that attaches to the top of the brass arch for power.  There is no indexing but who cares.  I just use a toggle switch for movement and another for directional power.  It rotates slowly and realistically.  Came with motor and gears, steel shaft and like I said, operates great and for me anyway was fun to build.  There is room for my 4-6-6-4 Challenger.  I don't know if it would fit a Big Boy.  I think they are in Ohio.  Their Web Site's Phone # is 330 683 1801 and ask for Larry.  They are a one man shop and it says you can special order.  Hope this helps.     Doug