Atlas 20,700 Gal Tank Cars

[BCR 570]

Would like to re-equip these cars with new trucks, metal wheels and body mount couplers if possible. 

Wondering if these cars should have 70-Ton or 100-Ton trucks?

Has anyone successfully installed body mount couplers and BLMA or Micro-Trains trucks?


Thank you,

Tim

[garethashenden]

Would like to re-equip these cars with new trucks, metal wheels and body mount couplers if possible. 

Wondering if these cars should have 70-Ton or 100-Ton trucks?

Has anyone successfully installed body mount couplers and BLMA or Micro-Trains trucks?


Thank you,

Tim

Google suggests that a gallon of oil weights 8.35lbs. I don’t know if that right, but let’s go with it. 20700 gallons is 172845lbs, or 86.42 tons. So I think you’ll need 100 ton trucks.

[nkalanaga]

Water weighs 8.34 lbs/gal, which would also make it a 100-ton car.

Googling "crude oil" "weight per gallon" gives this:
"The average barrel of domestic crude oil weighs 302.82 pounds. This is because the average gallon of crude oil weighs 7.21 pounds, and there are 42 gallons in a barrel."
https://www.reference.com/science/much-1-gallon-crude-oil-weigh-5ca057509a12904f

Which makes sense, as most crude will float.  That gives 149,247 lbs for 20,700 gallons, which could be a 70-ton car. 

To be sure, one needs to know the light weight (LT WT) of the car.  If the maximum load (LD LMT) + the LT WT is 220,000 lbs, it's a 70 ton car.  If the total is greater, it's a 100-ton car, and the sum should be 263,000 lbs, for the 1970s and 80s.  Today there are 286,000 lb cars, but I don't think the Atlas tanker is that new.

[Mark5]

What does the model come with? (I'll check in a bit) - chances are they are the correct tonnage.

Worst case consult proto photos - 36" vs 33" is easy to tell (at least for me).

Mark

[BCR 570]

Thank you  -I had figured on 100-Ton trucks with 36" wheels; wondering if anyone has successfully body-mounted couplers to these?

Tim

[cjm413]

Check this thread

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=21980.0

[Mark5]

Apparently, this is a proto photo, definitely 36" wheels:

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/gatx/gatx52191akg.jpg

Mark

[BCR 570]

Nice reference photo for weathering!  And I can add the ACI label for a little colour.

Thank you,

Tim

[GaryHinshaw]

Check this thread

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=21980.0

Yes indeed, I have converted one of these.  It took me awhile to find the post, but here it is:

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=21980.msg298108#msg298108

Mind you I used the Bowser couplers, so maybe not so helpful.  (But they look great and work well.)

[nkalanaga]

The only modern Atlas tankcars I have have body-mounted Accumates.  I reused the truck-mounted couplers in scratchbuilt boxes, glued to the end frames.  Building a box for Accumates is simple, using styrene strip, as all it needs is a pivot post.  Mine uses 0.015x3/16 strip top and bottom, and 0.015x0.060 for the sides, with a 0.060 rod for the post, 1/8 inch from the end.  Top thickness can be adjusted for proper height, although a shim might be easier for lowering, and 0.010 isn't that much thinner if it needs to be raised.

The only "trick" is to color the inside of the box before adding the coupler, and, of course, glue carefully when adding the lid.

I make mine in strips, the top and sides, drill multiple holes, glue the rods in, cut to length, and glue to the car.  Make the bottoms separately, by drilling holes in another strip of 0.015/3/16.  Cut those apart, install the coupler, and press-fit the bottom lid over the post. 

I'm not picky about the post lengths, and usually cut them about 1/4 inch long, leaving a little sticking out the top, and filling it flat after the glue dries.  The bottom end can be tapered a little, and is also filed to fit after the bottom is glued on.  Glue very carefully, or the coupler won't work smoothly.  On the bright side, the box is cheap, and glue won't hurt the coupler, so one can always start over.

In most cases the "lid" fits tightly enough that the coupler can be tested before gluing, but it definitely needs to be secured for normal operations.

[peteski]

The only modern Atlas tankcars I have have body-mounted Accumates. 

Accumates or McHenrys?
Athearn has been using McHenrys exclusively for quite few years.

Nevermind - this is Atlas.  I'm half asleep. 

[dmidkiff]

The Micro Trains 1017 passenger car couplers are great for body mounting on tank cars. Granted, I've only done this on old Roundhouse cars so far, but I'd bet that the extended base on the coupler would reach the tank on the Atlas cars.

Doug

[cjm413]

The Micro Trains 1017 passenger car couplers are great for body mounting on tank cars. Granted, I've only done this on old Roundhouse cars so far, but I'd bet that the extended base on the coupler would reach the tank on the Atlas cars.

Doug

Just pulled out an old Roundhouse tank car and some BLMA trucks to try this out.

[nkalanaga]

Peteski:  You could use exactly the same technique with McHenrys.  The main reason I don't is that I don't trust them.  MTs and Accumates will work if the pin falls out. McHenrys self-destruct, and I've never been able to get one back together again.  My boxes can't be taken apart, so I prefer a more durable coupler.

If the McHenrys come body-mounted, with the car, I leave them.  They work fine, as long as the pin is there.  I've never lost a spring, except when the whole thing comes apart.

[cjm413]

The Micro Trains 1017 passenger car couplers are great for body mounting on tank cars. Granted, I've only done this on old Roundhouse cars so far, but I'd bet that the extended base on the coupler would reach the tank on the Atlas cars.

Doug

Which 1017 did you use?  It appears there is a revised version that doesn't use the T-shank coupler:

Old:


New/revised: