using AIR ERASER to clean 3D prints.... TERRIFIC

[Dirk Jan Blikkendaal]

Short time ago there was a post by Lou Bourdages on FB/North American N & Ho showing how to erase decals from existing models using an AIR ERASER spray gun using aluoxide or baking soda.
I bought one myself and decided to try something else as well: cleaning 3D prints by Shapeways, FUD and FXD.
The results are astonishing in my opinion.
We all know the dusty white powder that clings to the print after cleaning them, especially in areas with overhang/shadow.
Today I used the aluoxide (instead of baking soda... will buy that tomorrow at the local grocery) that comes with the air eraser just to see what would happen.
All white stuff disappears...... even from the most difficult spots!!!! What remains is a really clean print and NONE OF THE DETAIL (including very small rivets) was damaged or even touched.
Solves one of the drawbacks of 3D printing and makes painting and decalling a lot easier........ in my opinion.

One word of caution: use protective glasses and a good air filter/mask. The stuff gets everywhere...... Outside is best but was no option for me so I used my spray booth (which moves a lot of air).
The aluoxide just bounces back from the model because of the rather high pressure of 45-50 PSI so a shower afterwards was the only way to get it out of my hair....... 

[peteski]

Solves one of the drawbacks of 3D printing and makes painting and decalling a lot easier........ in my opinion.

One word of caution: use protective glasses and a good air filter/mask. The stuff gets everywhere...... Outside is best but was no option for me so I used my spray booth (which moves a lot of air).
The aluoxide just bounces back from the model because of the rather high pressure of 45-50 PSI so a shower afterwards was the only way to get it out of my hair.......

Nice!  You need to build yourself a sandblasting booth - inexpensive and will pay for itself very quickly just in the cost of the showers (hot water, soap, etc.).    No more abrasive powder in your hair!   

[MK]

Before and after pictures possible?

[Chris333]

With paint to show the texture.

[Dirk Jan Blikkendaal]

Peteski, thanks for the tip and picture! One could even reuse the grit (after sifting) I suppose........ but the biggest advantage is NO MORE MESS.
Will try to upload some pictures before/aft.....

[peteski]

Peteski, thanks for the tip and picture! One could even reuse the grit (after sifting) I suppose........ but the biggest advantage is NO MORE MESS.
Will try to upload some pictures before/aft.....

Yes, you can reuse the aluminum oxide abrasive. I have similar setup (much less elaborate) and I collect the powder that settles down in the bottom of the bin and sift it though a fine mesh to get rid of any larger pieces of debris (which would clog the air eraser).

I found that photo in a Google search - It has a Railroad Model Craftsman watermark. It probably is part of an article which shows how to build that unit.

[Chris333]

I have an air eraser and it does get messy. But much less that sand blasting 

I took just about a whole VW Beetle down to bare metal with black grit in a sand blaster. Some of this had to be done in my garage. I was able to scoop up the used sand off the floor and sift it back into a 5 gallon bucket. If I didn't sift the tip would get clogged with garbage.

I imagine it's the same with the air eraser.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

I use mine mostly outside and into a large  cookie tin box. My wife's old leggings stretched over a plastic cup makes a good sift.

I really want to see before and after.

[Dirk Jan Blikkendaal]

The more I use the Air Eraser the more I like it! All the "fuzzy white stuff" that remains on 3D prints  in the most difficult to reach places (after normal cleaning) disappears completely. I wish I had known this trick before......I am almost at the point of repainting/redecalling previous “untreated” 3D printed engines.
If you look at the pictures you will notice that all airlines, holes, windowframes, all surfaces located under overhang, are very clean and crisp. The details of the prints remain undamaged and stand out much more. There is no need anymore the redrill holes for handrails etc... After blasting the parts are a little bit grey, but have a very smooth surface.
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As you can see in the last picture I am using the same blaster as Lou used. It is sold here in The Netherlands under the name of Fengdu Air Eraser Fe-178. In the States I have seen it as Master Air Eraser. It costs € 20,99 overhere (about $ 24) and 1 KG of alu oxide grid is € 2,99 ($3,30).... postage is almost the most expensive part (lol). The box I use is 40x55x35 cm (thanks Peteski!) with 2 holes cut in the sides to put my hands and stuff through. I covered the holes with 1 cm thick foam inside and out (contact glued and with staggered cuts inside/outside). The box has a couple of advantages: keeping the grit in the box and not all over the room (I use it in my trainroom), keeping moisture out, and saving the grit for re-use. Air pressure is 50-60 psi using my airbrush compressor (with supply tank). I use the moisture trap of both my airbrush and the moisture trap in the Air Eraser hose to prevent clogging. Before you start simply put all the things you need inside the box and close the lid. I also put a 0,4 mm steel wire inside to unclog the tip...... that still happens sometimes. Please use gloves.......      Happy N scale modelling, regards, Dirk Blikkendaal, ATSF N Scale Models (see website). 

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Can you take some photos with the parts primed? It's hard to see white on white.

[Dirk Jan Blikkendaal]

Some pictures of different models: ATSF RSD-15 side and front, RSD-7 side, Stockcar SK-2,3 and 5 sides, Tankcar Tk-G,H,I and J frame, Tankcar Tk-J upper tank half.
After priming with diluted Mr Surfacer Primer 100 I am even more amazed at the result of the Air Eraser treatment............
For more info on the models see www.atsfnscalemodels.com. 
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[daniel_leavitt2000]

That certainly looks a lot better. I might have to try another stab at an AEM7 again.

[Depauls]

That next gen electric log splitter certainly looks a lot better. I might have to try another stab at an AEM7 again.

Color me impressed. Those look fantastic. How did you get the idea to do this btw?

[peteski]

Color me impressed. Those look fantastic. How did you get the idea to do this btw?

I don't  know where Dirk got the idea, but we have discussed doing this here on the Railwire.  Here is my post from 6 years ago (how the time flies!):
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=29902.msg324798#msg324798

[Cajonpassfan]

Dirk, I’ve been holding off on assembling some of your kits because of the imperfect surfaces...this might just do the trick! These models look great, and your selection of prototypes is fabulous!

I’m looking at these two options, below. We have a Harbor Freight store nearby, but the quality isn’t always there. Are these two the same thing?Thoughts? [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Otto K.