Paint for drinking straws?

[nkalanaga]

"need a pretty good primer coat"
So would most of the plastic ones, so that's not a problem.  I think the "pink and gold" ones would be a better choice than the "brightly colored" ones, but either should work.  The 6mm would be fine for large N scale pipe, but the 12mm would probably be too large for most purposes.  Two of the 10mm wouldn't fit side-by-side on a flatcar, but could be stacked in a gon.

[cv_acr]

Paper straws ... bio degradable, etc.

Of course, available from Amazon .. lifetime supply perchance...

https://www.amazon.com/Hiware-200-Pack-Biodegradable-Paper-Straws/dp/B07D7L5Z85?th=1

You'll get a noticeable spiral pattern in those, which might be good for spiral-welded pipe, but not seamless tubing.

[Bendtracker1]

I know it's not free, but have any of you looked at this eBay seller?
I've bought a bit of stuff from him in the ways styrene and it's good stuff.
If you want a specific size of tubing for instance, let him know and he'll sell you what you need.  Or at least the last time I bought some from him he offered me custom orders of certain sizes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/120-STYRENE-ROUND-TUBES-ASSORTMENT-LOT-6-SIZES-ROD-PIPE-1-8-1-4/112425408111?hash=item1a2d13966f:g:y9EAAOSw1x1UQGte

[nkalanaga]

Allen:  The problem with styrene, and metal, tubing is that the walls are too thick for most N scale pipe.  I have a large assortment of both, but for flatcar loads, the drinking straws look much better.

[DKS]

The problem with styrene, and metal, tubing is that the walls are too thick for most N scale pipe.

The solution to this problem is to ream out the ends of the styrene tubing with an X-Acto knife. It tapers the sidewalls down to as thin as you want--you can't tell it's a taper or that the middle of the tubing is thick.

[ednadolski]

The solution to this problem is to ream out the ends of the styrene tubing with an X-Acto knife. It tapers the sidewalls down to as thin as you want--you can't tell it's a taper or that the middle of the tubing is thick.

What about maybe using some kind of tapered bit?  Would that be quicker and/or more consistent results? (Seeing that for pipe loads there would be a lot of ends to dress up.... tho I suppose it would work better with metal tubing rather than plastic)




Ed

[DKS]

What about maybe using some kind of tapered bit?  Would that be quicker and/or more consistent results?

Absolutely... assuming I had any back when I made pipes from styrene tubing...

[Steveruger45]

Great idea.
Also, a lot of new pipe shipped has blank plastic covers on the ends, various colors, blue or orange or red mostly
So could hide the out of scale thickness this way too

[peteski]

There is also a wide range of stainless steel hypodermic tubing, and thin-wall brass tubing available out there, but their cost is much higher than the cost of straws, and I know that nkalanga likes to stretch his modeling budget as much as he can. 

However, if someone wants to model pipes in diameters different that straws, the materials are out there.

[DKS]

However, if someone wants to model pipes in diameters different that straws, the materials are out there.

This. There are other (prototype) pipe sizes, and other modeling alternatives other than straws.

[C855B]

An experiment to consider:



Jacquard "Piñata Color" is a line of alcohol-based inks that perform like a lacquer. Very dense pigment content. The straw was brush painted; dry in about two minutes. Actually, what I did was one coat, wait about 15 seconds to mostly dry, then another coat, dry, then once more. It will scratch off if you work at it, but normal handling seemed OK.

Might be worth a try, available from Dick Blick. Be sure to get the cleaning solution, too. 91% IPA will work as a clean-up solvent, but the cleaning solution is faster and more thorough.

[peteski]

Color might be good (for pipes of that color), but IMO *WAY* too shiny.  If hitting it with some Dullcote does not wash the ink away, it might work.

[C855B]

The color or sheen isn't the issue, it happened to be an color on hand that I didn't otherwise have use for. What's important here is demonstrating a finish system that sticks evenly to plastic straws.

[peteski]

The color or sheen isn't the issue, it happened to be an color on hand that I didn't otherwise have use for. What's important here is demonstrating a finish system that sticks evenly to plastic straws.

Hmm . . . inks are usually glossy. So are you saying that a satin or flat finish version of those inks is also available, or that they are compatible with Dullcote?

Are the lighter colors (like green) opaque or transparent? Drinking straws often come in various colors (often with contrasting stripes), or even translucent.  If I wanted a green-colored pipe, would the green ink cover the original color of the straw?

[nkalanaga]

Yes, there are alternatives, but straws are cheap and easy to get.  Now, if I was modeling a specific load, the alternatives would be worth the cost and effort, but for a generic pipe load, it isn't worth it.  Another advantage of straws over metal tubing is weight.  A load of straws weighs very little, while metal tubing can make a car top heavy.

Steve:  I have a load of "well casing" modeled just that way.  The prototype appeared to have plastic caps, rather than just plastic sheet, so I used styrene rod, then dipped the ends in red craft paint.  It came out looking quite good, which was a little surprising, as the dipping was basically an experiment.

Peteski:  That's one of the big problems with straws.  The clear, white, or black ones aren't bad, but the other colors, and especially the striped ones, have to be painted!  The clear ones also need paint, but they can be painted on the inside, where it won't scratch off.