Rokuhan Switch to Code 40 Flex Tie Adapters

[narrowminded]

As some might know I've made an Nn3 flex tie bed (will do Z too) to work with code 40 rail and am now flushing out the rest of the system.  I'll be making my own turnouts but also know some will be interested in using Rokuhan as they have some self contained features, are very shallow and all from the top of the board, but also might be hard to service with their built in tie bed and the disturbance that would be needed on the hand laid track when that might be required.  I've tried to address all of those things and am now going to use a couple of their really tight radius turnout pieces in a test track that I needed for my small chassis testing.  This will test/ demonstrate the whole works.  Track, new turnout adapters, installation methods, and hopefully demonstrating some slick stuff that folks could use and is really not too hard to work with.  Over the next posts I'll document the construction of this test board utilizing my new track method for code 40 Nn3 track.  This will also work for Z  and I will make the same style adapter to mate the new Atlas code 55 Z track to the Rokuhan switches.  One thing worthy of note for Nn3 users is that the Rokuhan tie spacing is near perfect for Nn3 while badly out of scale for Z. 

And some pics.  These are mocked up as the paint on the 1/2" foam base isn't dry enough to start gluing yet.

Rokuhan to code 40 track adapter
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Switch adapter poorly colored with Sharpie to highlight detail
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Switch adapters
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Dremel Router attachment for sinking switch for flush mounted, no roadbed track
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Test Board o'all
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Switch pocket closeup, controlled depth at 1/8".
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[narrowminded]

Last one.

Switch adapters glue into pocket and set rail alignment to switch in height and gauge.  For servicing, switch lifts straight out without disturbing the track.  Wires will need to be disconnected below board.  More on that as it comes together.  Notice how similar the tie spacing is on the Rokuhan switch to Nn3 track.
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[narrowminded]

And this morning's progress after the base paint dried sufficiently.  This is a short video showing the Rokuhan switch being mounted to the board and gives a better idea of how it's used and how it works.  I'll start to lay some tie bed after the second switch is mounted and a little time for the glue to start setting up.  I may have a video of that basic process by this evening if I don't get interrupted.  Then it will be at least a day for glue to dry, then start laying rail.    It really is easy to work with, just being patient with each step, making sure fits are good, glue has dried sufficiently before to disturb, etc.  Enjoy!

[narrowminded]

Got the track bed laid on the test track.  Pretty torturous at 2 1/2" (63.5mm) and 3 1/2" (89mm) radius turns.  I also added super elevation which is why the corners seem to be darkened.  It's .010" elevated outside accomplished with doubled strips of .005" masking tape then a single in the middle for a little bit of tie span support.  The glue will help spread that load as well, filling the voids a bit.  I have to wait until at least tomorrow to let that stuff dry and then add the rail.  That'll have the track topside done.  Wiring underneath after that.  It's going well and I'm happy with everything so far.

View of tape added for super elevation of .010" .  Starts at one .005" layer and then gets second and center one added as the curve actually starts.
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And the completed ties.  The board dimensions are 9" x 14" x 1/2.   Needs to dry at least overnight and then rail and paint. 
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[Chris333]

If you're making the turnouts to lift out how do you power their rails?

[narrowminded]

If you're making the turnouts to lift out how do you power their rails?

That's next.  There is room on the guide ends for a shortened piece of rail joiner with a wire soldered to its bottom side.  Saves having a wire soldered to a totally melted down turnout.   Only one end is needed but there's room to connect at any of the rail ends.  Those wires drop straight down as well as the switch operator wires.  On the bottom I have cut grooves all around for a bus wire and the turnout operating wires. 

I am not using any rail joiners just dropping feeds from the bottom of each piece of rail.  Just bend the rail pretty accurately so there's little to no spring tension in it as you have with conventional flex track, then glue it down.  Easy on joint alignment and tension on the PlioBond glued down rail.  The rails will be in approximate 1' max lengths with a .010" gap at each joint for contraction as I anticipate that this thing could see cold temperatures and since I'm laying it at 70 degrees F, and I want to be safe down to as much as 20 (I have to double check my notes on that).  That's actually another test I want to do.  Find a big freezer.  It could be nice to know it's covered on a layout that might travel.  (Remember all that screwing around I did back when, some kinda' dismissed as silly?  Well...)  

[peteski]

While these turnouts are likely very robust and reliable, they are ugly as sin, and very unrealistic looking.  They clash with the rest of your fine trackwork.

[narrowminded]

While these turnouts are likely very robust and reliable, they are ugly as sin, and very unrealistic looking.  They clash with the rest of your fine trackwork.

Yes they are ugly!   And they aren't all that fine, at least the two that I have.  You'll be relieved to re-read the second sentence from the introductory post.   It's as follows, " I'll be making my own turnouts but also know some will be interested in using Rokuhan as they have some self contained features, are very shallow and all from the top of the board, but also might be hard to service with their built in tie bed and the disturbance that would be needed on the hand laid track when that might be required.  I've tried to address all of those things and am now going to use a couple of their really tight radius turnout pieces in a test track that I needed for my small chassis testing."  Part of the test will be if they can be hidden with paint and perimeter plugs, enough to be tolerable.   I doubt it.   But good test pieces and the parts are available to anyone who wants to run Rokuhan turnouts, Z or Nn3.     You'll like the ones I'll be making.  I'll have a really tight turning one like these, too.  Maybe even a little tighter if coupled little mine cars can stand it.

Do you remember that chassis video where these were used?  How they bounced a bit?  Well, I didn't look too closely at them then but now I have.  (Good test, BTW)   Multiple problems with gauge, height uniformity overall as well as right to left rail, and loose outer rails.  The left switch was pretty badly out of gauge on the diverging route, visibly, like .007" tighter than the NMRA minimum.  Both had both outer rails loose and not just a little.  I thought that maybe it was because I wasn't using rail joiners, tying in to a piece of standard track and getting that additional support of that track through the rail joiners.  Well, put a piece of track in and, not really.  The rails were a little less floppy but the gauge was still bad and the height of the turnout was still about .008" higher than all of the track I had and further, the height wasn't uniform across both rails.  Right one higher or lower than the left one.  The track is very consistent but the turnouts?    

I think they'll run smoother now but we'll have to see.  I was able to bend the rail that was out of gauge and then tighten up the loose rails with a dab of CA at a few of the molded spikes but had to file the top of the rails to get the height right and matched right rail to left.  I still made the adapters to fit the track heights as it was consistent and the one adapter can be used on standard track.  Also, while I could have adjusted my adapter to something on that turnout it still would be bumping and wobbling from all of the other errors.  They just needed fixed and in case I got the only two bad ones ever, the adapters will be good when the proper dimension ones are used.

[peteski]

Ah, thanks for that - I guess I need to be more careful reading posts. 

[Rivet Miscounter]

I guess I need to be more careful reading posts. 

Nah, that might affect your posts-per-second stats.

[DKS]

Ah, thanks for that - I guess I need to be more careful reading posts. 

Nah, that might affect your posts-per-second stats.

LOL. And it might interfere with his goal to get his posts in the right forum...

[Jbub]

Nah, that might affect your posts-per-second stats.


LOL. And it might interfere with his goal to get his posts in the right forum...

Is it his goal or Gary's? As much squawking Pete puts out there, Gary just moves the post without a word.

[DKS]

As much squawking Pete puts out there, Gary just moves the post without a word.

Gary is doing his job. Peteski prefers to squawk about it instead.

And now back to the topic at hand...

I applaud @narrowminded for this effort. I know firsthand what it's like working with these products. I actually handmade one of these turnouts before they were released.

http://davidksmith.com/modeling/gnd-2-2.htm

 

[narrowminded]

Thanks @David K. Smith and @peteski.  DKS for your sympathetic support and Pete for finding the track may have some merit.   Pete, did it occur to you that maybe I used those turnouts just to make my track look better? 

Next question will be track paint colors.  I have Rail Tie Brown and Grimy black and am inclined to use them since this is a test board only.  And that could be its own test, colors.  I am inclined to air brush the whole thing with Grimy Black and then Tie Brown on just the ties.  Manual brush detailing could be practiced too.  I want to use them because it's what I have but wonder if they'll be unsightly wrong.   Besides, I don't know where to get paisley paint.

[DKS]

FWIW, this is my track-painting routine. First, I spray-bomb (rattle can) all track with ruddy brown primer--this is mostly for the sake of the rail. Then I randomly brush on white acrylic paint and India Ink washes (thinned with alcohol) on the ties individually or in small bunches. Given that yours is a different type of railroad, however, this approach may not be appropriate. As always, YMMV.