Cumberland Station TTrak and Other Adventures

[CRL]

This change adds a lot to the general effect.

Good job.

[wm3798]

Meanwhile, in the Other Adventures Department...


A few bucks worth of Evergreen and a few minutes of my time...  I used some cheap magnet tape (it was handy) for the bases, set on some short nails I stuck into the foam.  Follows @Lemosteam 's idea for using magnets, but he used rare earth magnets, which I will probably upgrade to for a much more sturdy connection.

Doesn't look too bad...  I'll give it a shot of paint and weather and a few more details...  Then I'll just have to make a few each night!

[nickelplate759]

Great - now I want a Metroliner again 

[wm3798]

Metroliner Report:  The second drive I bought has officially been relegated to the parts bin.  It's the original 1969 drive, with the hole in the bottom where it would be screwed to the floor of its box.  The only difference I can see between it and the later Amtrak version is the gear head on the motor is slightly larger on the older version, the gear being about 3mm thick, the newer one is about 1.25mm.  This is the gear that engages the cup gear at the motor end of the drive train.
It had one of those "death rattles" where you could hear something vibrating in an arrhythmic fashion.  While it didn't seem to impact the operation of it, it was certainly irritating to listen to.
I've tried a couple of remedies, and so far none of them have made a difference.  I tried re-spacing the various components of the worm gear, reducing the amount of play in the motor armature itself, and the usual applications of grease and oil, but to no avail.  So off to the side it goes.  The other drive is now purring like a kitten, still a little loud by today's standards, but at least as smooth as the Trix diesels I have of the same vintage.

Now, to the layout department.  I'm working toward merging the Cumberland TTrak modules with the Retro layout concept, so I picked up a few more Unitrak bits and pieces yesterday, and started to get my head around the geometry of the space it will take up.



First I took 30 degrees worth of 11" and 12-3/8" curve to establish the "pie" slice that will go between the modules.  It's about 15" deep, 12" at the back, and a hair over 4" at the front edge.  I can now get to work on building that little bit.  It will have it's own power cables etc. so it can mate with a regular TTrak set up.  I probably won't have this done in time for N scale weekend... but certainly by next year.

Next, I started monkeying with the back side of the layout, which I'm figuring to just be some long sidings to store a few trains.  I can maximize the length of the sidings by starting the turnouts on the short edge, although this expands the depth of the overall to about 42".  At the apex of the "chevron" it will be about 30", so hopefully I can still reach in to correct any errant rolling stock behind the skyboard.  A reachy grabby thing will probably be a necessity.  The overall length will be 94"...  So after years of railing against 4x8 train tables, here I am...   But mine will be modular, so I'll have some flexibility.



I'm going to split the lines into at least four tracks, two on each loop, and maybe a few extras on the inside, since I'll have some real estate to work with without expanding the depth of the table. 



I'll have to work out locating some crossovers (should I decide I need them) and I'd like to have three thru tracks in each direction.

So I'll probably make two standard 90 degree turn boxes for the ends, then transition to Atlas track across the back.  I'll use Tortoise machines to make the turnouts as reliable as they can be, as well as to route power to the sidings.  Should be pretty simple.

Thanks for checking in.
Lee

[wm3798]

More monkeying around with craft beads and straight pins.

[wcfn100]

So after years of railing against 4x8 train tables, here I am...

I like how the track is perfectly parallel to the edge. 

Jason

[wm3798]

That's what led to the 30° bend!  I had to break that line!
Lee

[CRL]

That's what led to the 30° bend!  I had to break that line!
Lee

Good decision. That’s been one of my pet peeves for years and is one of the things that soured me on most modular standards.

[wm3798]

Built the base for the wedge module to bend the track 30 degrees.  Plan is to make the scenery work so the two main modules can be displayed with or without the embellishment.
On a larger TTrak display where I have the depth of the table to myself, I can use the complete scene with some 15 degree transitions at each end, otherwise, just two main boxes can be run in a straight line.

Of course, now I'm thinking about making another turn at the east end of the station and doing a module of the bridge across the Potomac...

[wm3798]

We'll be hitting the pause button for a couple of weeks while I do a bit of traveling.  I'll have a full report when I return!


Enjoy the holiday week!
Lee

[wm3798]

With Altoona just a week away, I've got to do some finish work on the modules to get them ready for their public debut.
I doubt I'll get any lighting installed on the bridge module, so I'll have to come up with a way to temporarily install the structures so they'll travel securely in place, then I have to finalize the design of my crating.
I may just chuck the installation part of the program and simply box up the structures...  Hmmm.

One thing's for sure, I won't be bringing the wedge modules... so I'll keep that project on the back burner until after the show.
Lee

[randgust]

Really looking forward to seeing this, I think you're going to be the star of the show this year and 'the module to see'.

And you're breaking about as many modular design rules and assumptions as I have, so all I have is applause.    I've always loved the depot model from when I first saw it on your old layout, and this is even a better presentation.

Your 'bridge module' is rather similar in concept to what I did on Hickory Bridge, but at least you don't have to figure out how to hide the second main track behind the skyboard.

I came up with a carrying crate design that is just two pieces of plywood on the ends - with cutouts to allow the rail joiners to stay on, and with carrying handles, and have one module upside down and flipped so that it creates the lid for the one below it.   So the only additional weight is the end pieces.   I carry a power screwdriver to get it apart, and like yours, the skyboards are permanently attached so it pretty much makes a sealed box for the pair.   But everything, and I mean everything, has to be secured or removed before you flip the top module on top of the bottom one for transport.

The first one I did (West Hickory) actually has a three-sided plywood box for carrying it, and that was not repeated again.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I came up with a carrying crate design that is just two pieces of plywood on the ends - with cutouts to allow the rail joiners to stay on, and with carrying handles, and have one module upside down and flipped so that it creates the lid for the one below it.   So the only additional weight is the end pieces.   I carry a power screwdriver to get it apart, and like yours, the skyboards are permanently attached so it pretty much makes a sealed box for the pair.   But everything, and I mean everything, has to be secured or removed before you flip the top module on top of the bottom one for transport.

A tried and true method. Bore some holes in the ends and grab some wingnuts (I'm sure there are plenty over there) and you can even use your leg leveling bolts to hold them on.
Otherwise you can use screws and t-nuts (put the t nut in the module frame). The pro-tip is that whatever you use you'll want to use something that's quick and easy to install without power tools (lots of guys in BANTRAK use 1/4-20 bolts and a driver but you can travel lighter if you can finger bang it all).

[wm3798]

If I'm sharing a room with you, I'm going to try to avoid as much finger banging as possible...

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Prude.