Trying to re-work Bmann NE caboose

[Joetrain59]

Recently picked up a couple of Bmann NE cabeese. One was D&H 35802, as seen on FF site; http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/dh/dh35802m.jpg.  Here is link to Bmann at MBK: https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/bachmann-silver-series-n-16859-northeastern-style-steel-cupola-caboose-western-maryland-1863/.
 The most obvious item is to add the end porthole windows. I'd like to add the thin, circular frames around windows. Been trying to work with styrene tube drilled out to make thinner walls. NFG. Drilling with hex bit by hand was not precise, so walls uneven. Any thoughts as to how to make them?  I just need 4, so don't think it's worth anyone's time to do setup for 3D printing. Then I'd like to try to change the steps and endrails. Bmann frame w/steps, platform is metal. Hmm.
 Thanks,
  Joe D

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Joe, I played around with these models and ended up going back to the LL NE caboose out of frustration. The end handrails are impossible to remove without damage. The windows are glued in. The window plastic is thicker than the car side.

The detail is marginally better - tread on the roof and flush windows. Ride height. But those are easily corrected on the LL model.

Do you have any photos of what you are trying to make? I have a few of the B-mann cabs torn down in my parts box and this might be a candidate for resin casting, which I've gotten pretty good at.

[Joetrain59]

Daniel, I just sliced the endrails off cleanly at roof line, and bottom of part just pries off. Was thinking of using MTL caboose endrails. The windows come out fairly easy, once you slip Xacto blade under them. Pic of proto is in link from FF site.
 Joe

[peteski]

Sounds like what you need is Wizard-of-Os photoetched rings.  I use them for 1:25 automobile models (things like dashboard gauges bezels).  They are available in few sizes, but they are a bit pricey.

https://www.scalemotorsport.com/wizard-of-o-s-no-1-photoetch-details.html
https://www.scalemotorsport.com/wizard-of-o-s-no-2-photoetch-details.html
https://www.scalemotorsport.com/wizard-of-o-s-no-3.html

Looks like Micro Mark sells them too:
https://www.micromark.com/Photoetched-Circles

The dimensions are not given, but if you tell me what size you are looking for, I can see if these have something that is close.

The other way to do this (on the cheap), is to get some 30 AWG solid copper wire (wire-wrapping wire), or other fine wire, strip the insulation and wrap it into a spring over a drill bit the size that you need the porthole to be. Then slide the sprint off and slice it into individual rings.

[Joetrain59]

Whoa, I never knew such things existed. I drilled 3/32" holes for windows. And I figured that a 5/32" OD circle, with 3/32" ID would do the job.
 Have to look at GMM for the handrails. Making the red end light should be fairly easy to make.
 Seems like one little thing always leads to more.
 Thanks,
 Joe D

[Joetrain59]

Pete, where you able to get a size for me?
 Thanks,
 Joe D

[peteski]

Pete, where you able to get a size for me?
 Thanks,
 Joe D

I have not been able to go and dig them out yet.  But I will . . .

[Joetrain59]

I might be successful using a punch set I got at JoAnn store. Tried a rotary punch first, but not very precise.
 They have a mini punch set. https://www.joann.com/realeather-mini-punch-set/10208106.html
 The trick will be to get smaller hole centered in the larger disc that's punched out first. I'll
have to post some pix.
 Joe D

[peteski]

I found my Wizard-Os.  Actually all 3 sets sheets have a ring which has dimensions close to what you need. Assuming that those Wizard-Os are the same that I bought about 2 0 years ago.

Yes, aligning the punch will be tricky for you.  I've done that with limited success. But you only need few good ones.

[narrowminded]

I found my Wizard-Os.  Actually all 3 sets sheets have a ring which has dimensions close to what you need. Assuming that those Wizard-Os are the same that I bought about 2 0 years ago.

Yes, aligning the punch will be tricky for you.  I've done that with limited success. But you only need few good ones.

If this gives you trouble I could machine one for you easy enough.  Just about any OD, ID, and thickness, and maybe even a little alignment lip to center if there's room. 

If the dimensions aren't too fine it might be able to be 3D printed, too.  PM if it would help.

[Joetrain59]

Well Mark came through with some great resin parts. Painted them after I took pix, should've primed them first.
 Will use Krystal Kleer for glazing after carbody is dullcoted. Then I need to work on end platforms/railings.
 Not the usual NE caboose stuff there.
 Thanks again Mark!
 Joe D

[peteski]

Nice! 
Amazing what one can do with home 3D printing.

[Joetrain59]

I need to research about 3D printing, but likely can't afford , nor do I have space for a printer. Is there software for Mac???
 Joe D

[narrowminded]

I see what you were doing now!   They should paint up nice, hiding the joint and through hole with nice, crisp edges.   They went pretty easy and could have been made smaller in every plain if desired.  At some point though, they become hard to support, to hold onto the part.

I'm glad I was able to help.

[Mark5]

Cool.  Makes me wonder if similar pieces could be found in the nuts and bolts section at the hardware store ...