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I have the esu select L decoder programmed and the drive hold on F6. Since I’m new with esu decoders, after the engine starts up you then hit the F6 key before starting any movement? Then after you get the engine to whatever step you want you toggle the F6 key on and off for a heavy load start, would this be correct? Thank you William Dunning Kahoka Missouri
Another way to do this is to use Run8 (which you will have to map to a function key). You can engage Run8, and the engine(s)' sound will throttle up to notch 8; you control speed with the throttle knob in this scenario, so you can accelerate the train as slowly as you like using your throttle knob. I've never seen a departing train throttle up all the way to Run8 before moving here in flatland Illinois, but I'm told it happens in the mountains.John C.
I don't think you would ever put an engine in 8 to start a train. You would most likely yank a lung if you did. Most of the guys today just put the engine in 2 or 3 and let the computers take over. With the size of the consists that leave Proviso and G1, you don't need much throttle....At least that's how they used to do it when I was there...
Sure, that makes sense for contemporary diesels, but how did they start heavy trains back in the diesel transition era, or even in the '60s or '70s?
NEVER in run8! When I was running we didn't have GEVO's or 70M's or 90MAC's. We had 3 or 4 GEEPS and maybe a covered wagon thrown in all MU'd. You'd have one eye on the ground and the other on your AMP gauge! It took skill to start a train back then. For example: Open throttle to notch 3 or 4 and keep a close eye on the AMP meter! Pick a spot on the ground out your window to check for ANY movement. Back to the gauge! You watch it build 600, 700, 800 even 900 AMPS on some GP's with fresh cut wheels (remember you're only in run 4). The gauge needle starts to "shudder". QUICK check the ground! Back to the needle. Back off a notch on the throttle and the needle drops to 600 AMPS and is steady. Start throttling up again one notch at a time never letting the AMPS fall otherwise you'd have to start all over again. While all this is going on you're constantly checking for movement. Oh, I forgot. You have a guy in the caboose who you're not trying to knock down!That's the best I can describe it. I guess you'd have to be there to really experience it......
OK. Given the experiences of real train engineers . . . DON'T USE RUN 8 on a LokSound to simulate a heavy train start! Instead, use the procedure I outlined - engage Drive Hold with engines at idle; throttle up to notch 3, then release Drive Hold and if you have enough momentum set, the engines will slowly accelerate to the throttle setting. After that, you just control the engines with the throttle normally.John C.
Thanks for your input on the Run8 feature John! As others said, it is great to hear from someone (an engineer) who actually ran the "real" trains.So this Run8 was likely developed by someone who only thought they knew how the real locomotives operate. That is too bad, because they could have made that feature work more realistically. But then again, many model railroaders wont know or care that it doesn't realistically represent the real operations - it does sound cool when used, and it adds some drama to operating model trains.
Heh, I love putting a locomotive into Run8 and grinding up my 4% grade, moving at about 5 mph. Bringin' 'em on down on their knees! Traction motors be damned; the sound effect is awesome! DFF
And we already have a first (of many) examples of a model railroader just enjoying the unrealistic, but cool-sounding feature.
Run8 is not an "unrealistic" feature. It just has to be used properly.