Anycubic Photon

[Chris333]

Yeah that is where I fill to as well.

I put magnetic vent covers over all my Photon windows. So I leave there resin in the vat for months at a time. Just stir it before you use.

[Ian MacMillan]

I put magnetic vent covers over all my Photon windows.

Now that's a great idea!

[Erock482]

The Science Continues....

Discovered an interesting test print to help determine optimum exposure settings for whatever resin you are using: https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration

After running the setup with my machine the results were pointing me in the direction of a much longer exposure time than what I was currently using. Doubling from 8 to 16. So I fired it up and let that print run over night.

Observations-
- Parts are much more securely stuck to supports. so much so I've had chunks breaking off as I remove the supports, using lighter supports may alleviate this.
- Warping was eliminated, even post UV cure the warping of the model at the roof overhangs seems to be eliminated
- Print bloom, I was getting some mushrooming on the car floor along the edges, this seems to be reduced now
- I do not see a noticeable increase or decrease in print quality

Going to run some tests and increment the speed up from 8 to 16 in 2 second intervals to see if there is a sweet spot.

[PJPickard]

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a printer...but I read so much about failed prints and messing with settings. I have no desire to add another "hobby", ie 3D printing to my list. From a real world perspective how much time is devoted to getting a good print? I'm used to industrial quality printers at my job where they just work. I'm leaning to the Prusa SL1 which is 5x+ more expensive than the Anycubic, because when when asked about why they went with Prusa users respond: "It just works"

[C855B]

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a printer...but I read so much about failed prints and messing with settings. I have no desire to add another "hobby", ie 3D printing to my list. From a real world perspective how much time is devoted to getting a good print? I'm used to industrial quality printers at my job where they just work. I'm leaning to the Prusa SL1 which is 5x+ more expensive than the Anycubic, because when when asked about why they went with Prusa users respond: "It just works"

FDM, or resin? The resin printers (Anycubic Photon, Elegoo MARS) are easy to dial-in. In my experience, my Photon "just works" and has enhanced my modeling abilities immensely.

However, in the FDM world, I've read similar things and drawn the same conclusion - achieving print consistency and quality becomes a hobby into itself. If I were looking for an FDM printer (...I'm not...) I'd agree with the assessment about the Prusa. For that matter, I would pay the considerable upcharge for the assembled version, having plenty of other projects on the bench and being well into the time > money phase of my life. 

[Ian MacMillan]

I dunno, my Photon just works. After a figuring out a plate level issue when I first got it, its been banging out prints non stop with no issues since July. First time I changed FEP was today.

[mighalpern]

Ok stupid question,
Chris you talk about putting covers on yours to save the resin in place,
but my Photon has the yellow windows, but they are not transparent, looks like a piece of paper is stuck on the back side( inside the printer) .  Do I have to peel this away, or did they forget to do that at the factory, cuz the paper is under the screw holes, I just don't remember anyone mentioning that they had to peel their windows and i don't want to scratch anything up just yet
Miguel 

[IronPenguin]

Whether you have a resin or filament printer (I've had both) there are variables that have to be worked out. For filament, the two most important are bed and nozzle temperature and then supports. Settings vary with type of filament.
With resin you have layer exposure times and supports. They vary from resin to resin and model to model and have to be worked out.

In addition with a resin printer you will have to replace the fep and eventually the LCD screen. Neither is real hard, but you do have to learn to do it.

With just about any printer you can get decent results right out of the box. But to get the most out of it,  you have to experiment

So yes, you will have to tinker to get good results. You will get failures. Is it a hobby unto itself? I'd say it's an art unto itself. Don't know if that makes it a hobby.

[IronPenguin]

Ok stupid question,
Chris you talk about putting covers on yours to save the resin in place,
but my Photon has the yellow windows, but they are not transparent, looks like a piece of paper is stuck on the back side( inside the printer) .  Do I have to peel this away, or did they forget to do that at the factory, cuz the paper is under the screw holes, I just don't remember anyone mentioning that they had to peel their windows and i don't want to scratch anything up just yet
Miguel

I think they all come with the paper. Feel free to peel it off so you can see what the plate is doing. As long as the printer isn't in direct sunlight, the yellow screens do a good job. I never had a problem with light effecting the resin.

[Chris333]

I don't even remember if my "glass"is yellow or blue. Been covered up since the day I bought it.

[peteski]

FDM, or resin? The resin printers (Anycubic Photon, Elegoo MARS) are easy to dial-in. In my experience, my Photon "just works" and has enhanced my modeling abilities immensely.

However, in the FDM world, I've read similar things and drawn the same conclusion - achieving print consistency and quality becomes a hobby into itself. If I were looking for an FDM printer (...I'm not...) I'd agree with the assessment about the Prusa. For that matter, I would pay the considerable upcharge for the assembled version, having plenty of other projects on the bench and being well into the time > money phase of my life. 

Isn't Prusa a FDM printer?  I thought it used filament for printing. And everybody says that it just works?

[C855B]

Isn't Prusa a FDM printer?  I thought it used filament for printing. And everybody says that it just works?

Yes. Yes. And yes.

[Mark W]

Prusa is the brand.  The Prusa i3 is an FDM printer (available in versions  Mk2.5, Mk3, and Mk3S).  Prusa SL1 is a resin printer just like the photon. 

..With just about any printer you can get decent results right out of the box. But to get the most out of it,  you have to experiment.

So yes, you will have to tinker to get good results. You will get failures...

Totally agree. 
Yes, everyone will get failures, but none that cannot be overcome by either self experiments, or shared experience from the ever growing community. 


@C855B, One thing to note, building the kit is not just about saving some cash.  It's about learning what and how every single part of the machine works; very useful information when something starts acting up.  For instance, I just had to replace a defective linear bearing.  This would have been a much more aggravating experience if I didn't know exactly how the assembly came together in the first place.  I know you mentioned you're not in the market for an FDM, but for anyone who might be, even if money is not a concern, I highly recommend kits over ready to run for exactly this reason. 

[Chris333]

So there were no black Friday deals on these?

[John]

Mine is in the basement .. I keep a black plastic bag over it when not using it ..