Anycubic Photon

[Mark W]

... retired from a life of machinery work, I think in inches and degrees F...

Can't blame you there.  I just saw that quote earlier and thought of your post.   I forced myself into the metric system when I started doing 3D printing design work 10 years ago, so me reading your post is probably how you see metric.   

Interestingly, #41 signed this executive order, helping the US to inch their way into the metric system.  So technically, the US is a metric country by law.  Aside from speed limits and mile markers (some states are catching up there too), all weights and measures will have metric listed by law, and imperial listed solely because public preference.   

Executive Order 12770, which cites the Metric Conversion Act of 1975, directed departments and agencies within the executive branch of the United States Government to "take all appropriate measures within their authority" to use the metric system "as the preferred system of weights and measures for United States trade and commerce."

[narrowminded]

Which would you choose? 



https://i.imgur.com/KkIGcRe.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/za5BVk2.jpg

Edit add:  Quoted the wrong post.  Meant for John.  Sorry.

John, I think we all get it and have from the start, the minute we saw the principles of operation.  It's not rocket science.  But the real point is there's nothing we're doing about it with a few hundred dollar budget and even more importantly, there's nothing we HAVE to do about it because the process and material characteristics are finally good enough for our purposes, for a few hundred dollars, where they weren't until now. 

At least to me, this is the first time 3D printing is adequate for my purposes, within a tolerable budget, and I'm happily taking advantage of it.  And when it gets even better (resin and screen pixels/  resolution), I'll be the first to take advantage of the new and expanded capabilities if my needs dictate it's worth it.  We could have a 3D philosophy discussion but I won't be participating because it's not anything I'm in a position to do anything about and frankly, I'm not interested enough to take the time to agonize over it.  I'd rather spend that time using this and a host of other tools and technologies to get to an end that I am interested in and is within the current capability of those technologies, as constrained by my budget.  That's important.  Not reinventing them but using them for the tools that they are.  And that's pretty much the last I'll have anything to say about this at the theoretical level because the technology is already sufficiently understood to be used as a tool as well as beyond the scope of anything that I can or will be doing anything about. 

And if you get one you'll be able to great things with it.   I know this because I've seen you do more with less.  

[MK]

Can't blame you there.  I just saw that quote earlier and thought of your post.   I forced myself into the metric system when I started doing 3D printing design work 10 years ago, so me reading your post is probably how you see metric.   

Interestingly, #41 signed this executive order, helping the US to inch their way into the metric system.  So technically, the US is a metric country by law.  Aside from speed limits and mile markers (some states are catching up there too), all weights and measures will have metric listed by law, and imperial listed solely because public preference.   

As someone here, I think, posted a while back, sure we can go metric, 1/10 of an inch!   

[narrowminded]

As someone here, I think, posted a while back, sure we can go metric, 1/10 of an inch!   

That's how I'm drawing in Sketchup.  Move the decimal.  It's bi-metric.  

Then there's the nightly weather report in degrees F, a gallon of milk, a 2x4 (that isn't), a 4x8 sheet (that is), a yard of concrete, a 12 oz. drink...  Maybe some day. 

[Lemosteam]

Which would you choose? 



https://i.imgur.com/KkIGcRe.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/za5BVk2.jpg

@Mark W Why, this one of course:



You guys think I am taking this way too seriously, well I am because I want one, can't afford one, I'm totally jealous of all of you, and feeling left behind from a world that I belong in and can contribute to.

@narrowminded , and no I am still not convinced that parts printed on this machine (or any printer for that matter) that require mating to other commercially available parts will work.  That's what I design though.  Repeatability is not only what I need, I need accuracy to design nominal.   I design in seven (METRIC) decimal places for that reason, but I am not expecting the printer to match that, just come within a couple deviation points of it on the bell curve.  I can design out tolerance variation, but no one can design out of unintentional dimensional mean shift that the printers seem to deliver (so far).

I don't expect anyone to sympathize with what I want from a printer, but you will begin to empathize with me when you design a shell to fit tightly to an OEM steam engine chassis or design separate windows to fit openings in brick walls with minimal gaps.  My SW gaps for some kit parts are 0.05mm for fit between mating parts of the same material.

I already have this issue with SW $30,000 machines- I should have no expectations for a $500 unit, right?

I might not be happy until 3D printing can reliably establish similar capabilities in dimensional capability to injection molding (NOT referring to surface quality here).

Most of what folks are doing here is printing nebulous parts (rightly so) that don't have to mate to the tight capabilities of other parts that were manufactured elsewhere or parts that have to mate tightly to another part, possibly printed in a different batch on the same printer.

Like I said, I'm not trying to spoil anyone's fun here, but I will document some findings from some folks whom willingly have printed my designs soon enough.

Nuff said.

[narrowminded]

@MK  You asked for pictures?  We got crap pictures.

This is the coupling for adapting to standard couplings.  It is fixed, no auto-coupling, and goes in to the link socket using the same pin as the link and pin would.  I guess it could be used on all and will be tested in all configurations.  I will also make a link socket that could be used to set into a standard MT coupler pocket to adapt the other way, making the loco coupling a link and pin.  That would seem to have it covered coming and going.   And IF there was a desire to just stay with standard style couplers for ease of use I could print that coupler directly onto the chassis and save all of the extra parts but as of now I'm still liking the coupler detail goodness of the link and pin.  The functions are all there but I will still play with the cosmetics, adding some detail, and printing in black.  And if the detail really can't be seen I may just leave it as is.  Also, the coupling pin in these photos has the 1/3 smaller hand grip eye (.020").  I like it much better.

Also included a pic of the coal load base that just drops in to the hopper.  It centers nicely, much as the hopper does between the vertical guides, but both can be installed with some white glue based on preference to save the loose individual parts.  That can also be undone easily.  Enjoy.

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[chessie system fan]

Well, I discovered that parts can go through a washer and  (more importantly) a dryer unscathed. 

[peteski]

That's how I'm drawing in Sketchup.  Move the decimal.  It's bi-metric.  

Then there's the nightly weather report in degrees F, a gallon of milk, a 2x4 (that isn't), a 4x8 sheet (that is), a yard of concrete, a 12 oz. drink...  Maybe some day. 

But metric is slowly creeping in (even if they disguise it in an imperial wrapper).  Look at things such as plywood thickness, or width of your Scotch masking tape.  You will see some really odd dimensions. There  is no more 1/4" or 3/4" plywood, or 1" masking tape.

I was raised (on Poland) using metric, but after living in U.S. for almost 40 years, I have fully embraced the measurement units used in U.S.  I'll have hard time going back to metric.

[MK]

Peteski, I don't there was ever real 3/4" or 3/8" plywood although maybe furniture grade stuff has those exact thickness.  Just like 2x4 was never 2" x4".

Mark, thanks for the pics.  Sort of like Unimates with a holed shank.

[chessie system fan]

I've been working towards this moment for fifteen years.  Way back I tried modifying stock fuel tanks, only to find that they all have an incorrect profile or were too much work to correct.  I next tried scratch building, with mixed success.  But now...



Everything is just quickly test fitted.  And I still need to design a few little details.

[peteski]

Peteski, I don't there was ever real 3/4" or 3/8" plywood although maybe furniture grade stuff has those exact thickness.  Just like 2x4 was never 2" x4".

Actually, I think plywood thickens was actually represented in real dimensions. But nowadays you see things like 29/32" (or such).  I think they are simply representing metric thickness in inches.

And 2x4s used to be 2x4s  (I have those in my house's walls).  But that was long time ago.

[DKS]

Peteski, I don't there was ever real 3/4" or 3/8" plywood although maybe furniture grade stuff has those exact thickness.  Just like 2x4 was never 2" x4".

Although dimensional lumber has been 1/2-inch less than common size for many decades, plywood thickness has been reduced more recently. Back in the 80s, when I started doing home renovation, 1/2-and 3/4-inch ply were exactly that; today, they're between 1/16- and 1/32-inch less. BTW, my first reno project was on a home built in 1919, which had 2x4s that were really 2x4--and that made some aspects of renovation a bit tricky (not to mention the knob-and-tube wiring). But then, the house had all original sheetrock! Who knew sheetrock was around in 1919?

Edit: A quick search yielded an answer: dimensional lumber gradually reduced in size after railroads started shipping it nationwide in the late 1800s (yes, an on-topic fact!). They found that it cost less to ship after it was kiln dried, and drying caused the lumber to shrink; thus, not all 2x4s were still 2x4. Finally, standards were established in 1969 resulting in the sizes we have today. Also: sheetrock was invented in the UK around 1890.

[Lemosteam]

I've been working towards this moment for fifteen years.  Way back I tried modifying stock fuel tanks, only to find that they all have an incorrect profile or were too much work to correct.  I next tried scratch building, with mixed success.  But now...

Everything is just quickly test fitted.  And I still need to design a few little details.

Not that your loco has issues, but underbody gap fillers would be a good candidate to design.

[MK]

Good facts there DKS!

[Lemosteam]

@MK  You asked for pictures?  We got crap pictures.

This is the coupling for adapting to standard couplings.  It is fixed, no auto-coupling, and goes in to the link socket using the same pin as the link and pin would.  I guess it could be used on all and will be tested in all configurations.  I will also make a link socket that could be used to set into a standard MT coupler pocket to adapt the other way, making the loco coupling a link and pin.  That would seem to have it covered coming and going.   And IF there was a desire to just stay with standard style couplers for ease of use I could print that coupler directly onto the chassis and save all of the extra parts but as of now I'm still liking the coupler detail goodness of the link and pin.  The functions are all there but I will still play with the cosmetics, adding some detail, and printing in black.  And if the detail really can't be seen I may just leave it as is.  Also, the coupling pin in these photos has the 1/3 smaller hand grip eye (.020").  I like it much better.

Also included a pic of the coal load base that just drops in to the hopper.  It centers nicely, much as the hopper does between the vertical guides, but both can be installed with some white glue based on preference to save the loose individual parts.  That can also be undone easily.  Enjoy.

Need video of these running behind your tiny mech.