Author Topic: Anycubic Photon  (Read 137272 times)

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Chris333

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #210 on: November 15, 2018, 07:01:35 PM »
0

Sounds like good clean and curing process.  Did you scrub through the slices pre-print to make sure everything looks to be in place?  The individual slices will help confirm that specific details are accounted for in the print, and help identify if anything is 'floating'; being printed without a previous layer supporting it.

Sounds hard to do with the slicer software. And once it is sliced I have no idea how to open the .photon file.


Here are some steam cylinders at different angles. The squared off angular look is from Sketchup not the Photon.



rodsup9000

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #211 on: November 15, 2018, 11:06:16 PM »
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Would you be willing to print one at an angle and measure that one for comparison?

 Will print one tomorrow on a angle, and take measurements for you, John.
If you want to send me a STL file of that Loco shell, I'll print it straight and at angles and send them to you.
« Last Edit: November 15, 2018, 11:12:11 PM by rodsup9000 »
Rodney

My Feather River Canyon in N-scale
http://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=31585.0

Mark W

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #212 on: November 15, 2018, 11:29:09 PM »
+1
Now that a lot of you are receiving your Photons, I thought it would be useful to share some of my workflow and findings.  Important settings in bold.

Once the model is ready, I use Netfabb for adding supports.  There are different tiers of the program, but if you download the trial you'll get premium features for 30 days, then it will revert to the free basic tier.  Looking at the features by tier, the basic should include everything we need anyway.   Netfabb is lightyears ahead of the Photon Slicer when it comes to adding supports.  Since its free, I highly recommend using it!

I export my models from Maya as .obj and import to Netfabb.  Upon import, it runs a repair script to clean up degenerate triangles, fill mesh holes, and join touching shells to a single part.  Think of it kind of like vacuforming your model. 

Once the model is in Netfabb, I position so the lowest part of the model is 4.5mm off the deck.  I find this is the optimal distance to allow support platforms and trees to form and normalize before the first part layer. 

When you enter "Generate Support" mode, Netfabb will analyze the part and highlight all bottom/overhang surfaces in red.  (Yes technically top/underhung surfaces because it prints upside down from this orientation, but you get it).  You can specify the value for critical (red) and caution (yellow) angles, I use 35 and 40 respectively.  Zero is a dead overhang, 90 is a wall.  Anything above a 40 degree angle can "Brick Balance". 

Once you have your critical angle surfaces generated, you can build scripts to generate supports for a given surface zone, or add individual supports manually.  You can also adjust almost every attribute of the supports, whether scripted or added manually, and independently of other supports. 

So far I've just been adding supports manually by clicking on the model where I want the support to connect, right clicking on that anchor and choosing "Create Bar".  Here are the attributes I use by default, and I'll adjust them individually if necessary.

Bar Contour: Solid Bar
Distance to part: 0.00 to -0.20mm
Width on Part: 0.30mm
(For areas that will be closer to the edge of the build plate, I'll use 0.40mm, and sometimes 0.50mm.  This compensates for bulb falloff)
Width on Platform:  1.00mm
Right Angle on Part: No (sometimes Yes)
Pad on Platform: Yes
Pad Width: 10-12mm
Pad Height: 0.40mm


Once the supports are added, there is a manager to convert the support tree to its own .STL  I then select the Support STL and the Model and export the two parts as a single prepared .STL for DLP.
I also save the Netfabb project as it will allow me to make minor adjustments to the supports if necessary.  Unfortunately, if the part must be re-oriented, you'll have to start supports over from scratch.

Now I open the Photon slicer and import all the prepared STLs I want to print in one run, position them and set my layer and exposure settings.  Hit Slice!

When the slicer is done, it will notify you with the time the print will take.  You can choose "Ok" to close the window, or "Show Preview".  The preview opens another window with a slider that lets you scrub through each layer and confirm all details are present and check for floaters.  I also use this to judge if too much is being exposed on a given slice in relation to the amount of supports under it.  Too much at once will risk sticking the layer to the FEP, ripping it away from the supports when the build plate moves. 

If anything needs to be addressed, it's back to Netfabb to re-orient and re-generate supports.   :facepalm:  Yes, this takes awhile as you're basically starting over with the supports, but you learn quick how to do things correctly the first time.  And the bright side is once it's finalized, it's finalized.

And there it is, the part is finally ready for the USB stick!   :scared:

I know it sounds like a lot of work, but after 4 or 5 parts, it only takes a matter of minutes to build a support tree. 
« Last Edit: November 16, 2018, 12:04:11 AM by Mark W »
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rodsup9000

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #213 on: November 16, 2018, 12:41:01 AM »
+1
 I used to use Netfabb all the time when I got into 3D printing back in 2011. I don't remembering Autodesk owning it either.
BTW, I just went through all my STL files and have well over 200 files that has been fixed and sliced with Netfabb.
« Last Edit: November 16, 2018, 01:06:38 AM by rodsup9000 »
Rodney

My Feather River Canyon in N-scale
http://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=31585.0

Chris333

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #214 on: November 16, 2018, 02:27:27 AM »
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So how do you get Netfabb without an account? And is it a program or a service? The site said something about a 10m internet needed. That sounds like an app that connects to the internet.

Edit: I downloaded it with a bunch of gibberish and then blocked the program with my firewall.  ;)

I can sense a ton of questions coming  :scared:
« Last Edit: November 16, 2018, 03:20:33 AM by Chris333 »

Chris333

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #215 on: November 16, 2018, 03:31:36 AM »
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Once the model is in Netfabb,




I got that far  :D

Quote
I position so the lowest part of the model is 4.5mm off the deck.  I find this is the optimal distance to allow support platforms and trees to form and normalize before the first part layer. 

And now I have no idea what I'm doing  :oops:

This is the roof of my cab:

Now what?

Chris333

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #216 on: November 16, 2018, 04:18:41 AM »
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I re-printed the cab using the same exact file, but tilted it 2 ways just a little bit. It looks like this back corner came away from the build plate and so screwed up the supports, but the top looks fine.

Should have looked like this:

But still the print came out much better. All the bolts are there this time. The door inset is straight now. The panel grooves aren't as deep as Shapeways, but they are there and I could redraw them deeper and wider. (I did this the first time with Shapeways as well.)


And as Mark is saying I need to work on the supports. You can see the little green nick bottom right from a support too close to the edge:


And here is a shot of the back after breaking the supports away and no sanding. I just primed it so you could see. This is the slight sagging the @Lemosteam wanted to see.


The back is no big deal for me as I knew they would need clean up. Still much more to learn, but I made these on my kitchen counter while my Shapeways order is on day 21 now and still waiting to be shipped to me.

This is my timeline:

**Oct 26th I placed a Shapeways order for 5 items all in FUD.

**Nov 5th (10 days later) decided to buy my own 3D printer.

**Nov 14th printer is on my porch. A few hours later I already had my first print finished.

**Nov 16th (right now) Shapeways says my order is still in production, but the estimated ship date is for later today. Their estimate for me to receive the package is Nov 29th.
« Last Edit: November 16, 2018, 04:32:34 AM by Chris333 »

wcfn100

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #217 on: November 16, 2018, 12:32:44 PM »
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@Chris333, what are the board gaps drawn at in that file?

I'm hoping to join the party this weekend.  I've been learning Fusion 360 which has had a few bumps along the way.  Even so, I'm almost done with my 70 tonner shell.



Jason

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #218 on: November 16, 2018, 01:36:02 PM »
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I re-printed the cab using the same exact file, but tilted it 2 ways just a little bit. It looks like this back corner came away from the build plate and so screwed up the supports, but the top looks fine.

And here is a shot of the back after breaking the supports away and no sanding. I just primed it so you could see. This is the slight sagging the @Lemosteam wanted to see.


The back is no big deal for me as I knew they would need clean up. Still much more to learn, but I made these on my kitchen counter while my Shapeways order is on day 21 now and still waiting to be shipped to me.


Aside from the sanding on the back (wonder how this resin sands) I have been thinking of this design concept myself for other projects, and if you have ever done any woodworking, you know how mitered corners go... I see this as a problem that is not easily resolved.  Cross corner measurements for squareness can also be an issue as you sand one bevel the one side of the kit can become shorter, etc.  I wonder if making the corner with an intentional gap on the inside for glue to fill would work better than trying to match an exact 45 degree angle for a 90 degree miter.


Chris333

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #219 on: November 16, 2018, 01:44:06 PM »
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@Chris333, what are the board gaps drawn at in that file?

I'm hoping to join the party this weekend.  I've been learning Fusion 360 which has had a few bumps along the way.  Even so, I'm almost done with my 70 tonner shell.



Jason
They are .005" wide and .007" deep. I would probably make them wider.

Chris333

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #220 on: November 16, 2018, 01:53:00 PM »
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Aside from the sanding on the back (wonder how this resin sands) I have been thinking of this design concept myself for other projects, and if you have ever done any woodworking, you know how mitered corners go... I see this as a problem that is not easily resolved.  Cross corner measurements for squareness can also be an issue as you sand one bevel the one side of the kit can become shorter, etc.  I wonder if making the corner with an intentional gap on the inside for glue to fill would work better than trying to match an exact 45 degree angle for a 90 degree miter.

Yes the parts have little tabs that interlock in the corners and those prints from Shapeways fit good. The tabs are really to keep the walls aligned vertically. For a Photon specific file I would remove those tabs and add a gap like you suggest. Also print each wall as a separate piece. In the file used they were all joined to be one "part" for SW.

The thing is... I drew the cab up and ordered it from Shapeways. Put it together (as pictured) but the inner roof was too long to fit into the 4 walls. Was very easy to fix that, but now I'm waiting a month for the revise. So even if I was still going to use SW I could test everything first and have the results in less than 2 hours.

chessie system fan

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #221 on: November 16, 2018, 06:26:48 PM »
+1
Mine arrived today.   It has yellow windows.  8)  Other supplies haven't arrived yet (postman delivered the alcohol to the wrong address  :facepalm:) so it'll be a few days before I can play with mine.
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Mark W

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #222 on: November 16, 2018, 06:47:23 PM »
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And here is a shot of the back after breaking the supports away and no sanding. I just primed it so you could see. This is the slight sagging the @Lemosteam wanted to see.


...Aside from the sanding on the back (wonder how this resin sands...
...I see this as a problem that is not easily resolved...

The resin sands beautifully.  I think this build-up is more prevalent with translucent resin where bleeding UV partially cures things that get 'tangled' in the supports, especially on large flat parts where the resin can't drain away well.   A trick I learned from a YouTube video is to remove supports before cleaning and curing.  This allows you to simply wipe, brush scrub, or lightly scrape that build up away.  Before post-print curing, the build up behaves a lot like un-cured green-putty.  Once it's cured, it's part of the part.   

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rodsup9000

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #223 on: November 16, 2018, 10:10:41 PM »
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   I made my 1st mistake today. Got some gray resin and was cleaning the vat out and noticed 2 small places the resin had cured on the FEP film. I was using a soft bristle tooth brush, trying to break the cured resin off the FEP film using a swirling motion and it wouldn't break free. So I used my paint scraper that holds a single edge razor that I use to break the parts free of the build plate, to scrape it free. It worked great, but when I was finished cleaning it all up, the FEP film was somewhat cloudy where I had used the tooth brush, but where I scraped the resin free was OK. So if you do end up with resin on the film, just use a razor to break it free. I changed out the film and it was no big deal and I do have 5 more sheets coming to keep on hand. I also ordered some white, black and red resin from anycubic on ebay and got a additional 10% off so I added a extra vat to the order and it was less than $40. 

 The plan for tonight is print another oil tank on a angle for the measuring test for John.   
Rodney

My Feather River Canyon in N-scale
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chessie system fan

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Re: Anycubic Photon
« Reply #224 on: November 16, 2018, 11:09:51 PM »
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I took a good whiff of the resin in the bottle before work tonight and I don't see what the big deal is.  I could barely smell it.   The cleaning IPA will smell worse. But then I 've been in laboratory settings for most of my adult life so maybe those olfactory cells are long gone.  Maybe it's worse  in a the vat being used?
Aaron Bearden