Anycubic Photon

[Lemosteam]

I'm curious how this would print on the photon, or if it fails how badly if would fail and how it could be designed differently so that it would work.  One of the main reasons I got my machine is for making shells so this would be useful information to know.  Like would there be a proverbial forest of support structures in the interior?  if it turns out that isn't too bad, the only problems I see (with no experience yet--my machine arrives friday ) are the supports along the bottom and maybe the area between the cylinders.

John, I'm guessing you'd want to keep this design proprietary, but if you'd like to whip up a generic something to test the limits of the photon I'd be willing to print it as a test.

I've got a test of my own I want to try.  I'm want to print a wall with rows of differently sized rivet lines and weld seams to see what is possible and what looks good in n scale (because I know scale rivets are so small you can't see them).

One of the things that should be a tenet of 3D printing IMHO is that the printing process should not be a major factor while designing something.  It defeats the entire purpose sometimes.  Might as well mill and cast the parts as it will take as long to design for the process.  Anyway there are always trade-offs.

Also, I don't want anybody here to think I am trying to slam them, their ideas or their prints.  I just think that all considerations should be known before someone plunks down lots of moolah for a printer and a CAD tool and so folks can align what they really want to do regarding 3D printing and what a particular process delivers.

@Mark W the back side of those look nice but I can see some resulting flaws, chips, bumps, and minor surface irregularities from what I assume is from the supports and their removal.  I would hate to see what might happen with the ribs inside my shell.

Here is the real test though.  When SW decided to charge $1 per loose part I had to redesign my 3768 tender shell model to sprue bits inside, whistles, marker lights, cab seats (with 0.32mm thick seatbacks), lower cab door panels, and of course the tender trucks.  I am curious to see how the model below would print on one of these if someone was willing.  the shell also has delicate overhangs and some other functional bits that help it mate to my tender frame design.



Here is the wax that I am forced to purchase due to the newer orientation tool in SW, essentially the inside of the shell where there is only air:

[Lemosteam]

Did some measuring on the oil tank and compared it to the drawing.

  Overall length

 Drawing 27.1mm     Printed tank 27.24mm

 Width   
 
 Drawing 18.1mm    Printed tank  18.25mm

 Height   

 Drawing 5.3mm      Printed tank   5.45mm

 This is amazing as it should have some shrinkage according to the resin stat sheet

Thank you for this info, fairly small part though.  My issues were with parts longer than 100mm.  Wonder if the angling of a model would affect those dimensions.  Would you be willing to print one at an angle and measure that one for comparison?

[C855B]

One of the things that should be a tenet of 3D printing IMHO is that the printing process should not be a major factor while designing something.  It defeats the entire purpose sometimes.  Might as well mill and cast the parts as it will take as long to design for the process.  Anyway there are always trade-offs. ...

Déjà vu. Similar issue when high-res 2D was in its infancy - successful output was printer-dependent, certain major applications generated code in some instances that would crash popular output engines. Not to discourage, but it took almost 15 years for everything to shake-out to where you didn't have to worry about 99% of the work. I think we're looking at a similar curve... well, actually a more difficult issue since the problem here is the need for a self-supporting resin chemistry.

[Mark W]

...One of the things that should be a tenet of 3D printing IMHO is that the printing process should not be a major factor while designing something....

...When SW decided to charge $1 per loose part I had to redesign my 3768 tender shell...

I can already say designing parts is so much easier now, and I would gladly exchange printing to my own machine's requirements than being at the mercy of ever changing pricing and design requirements of a particular service. 

Let's connect offline about doing one of your part samples on the Photon. 

[chicken45]

I can already say designing parts is so much easier now, and I would gladly exchange printing to my own machine's requirements than being at the mercy of ever changing pricing and design requirements of a particular service. 

Let's connect offline about doing one of your part samples on the Photon.

Ooh.

[Chris333]

So my Photon was sitting on the porch when I woke up the other day, but the extra bottle of resin needs a signature so I got a slip.

[Chris333]

Anyhow when I walked in the door from work last night I didn't smell the resin at all. I would call it a very mild smell. Sometimes I forget all about it till I open the door to the machine and even then it is very faint.

After listing all the smells that don't bother me I did think of one that did. Bleach! I hate that stuff.

And here are some pics of a test. First this is the drawing:

It is a cab for an HOn30 loco with the edges at a 45 degree bevel to glue the 4 sides together. Came out like this, yeah my photos suck:

Hit it with primer so you can see it:


The assembled cab is made of FUD from Shapeways. You can see some of the bolt heads didn't show up and the board gaps kind of filled in. Also the inset panel on the door has some strange hourglass look to it. The gaps and bolt heads could be changed in the drawing so they showed up. This was printed flat. If I had tilted it up like 30 degrees it might come out better (and I'll try that next).

[rodsup9000]

You can see some of the bolt heads didn't show up and the board gaps kind of filled in. Also the inset panel on the door has some strange hourglass look to it. The gaps and bolt heads could be changed in the drawing so they showed up. This was printed flat. If I had tilted it up like 30 degrees it might come out better (and I'll try that next).

 Chris, I think the layer that the siding was printing with the detail was too thick. Might try a layer height of .02, decrease the curing time a little, and see if it will come out that way. Also try it as a single piece, as in, put it all 4 sides together and try printing. For my caboose, I'm going to try it with all 4 sides as 1 piece and then the roof, frame and cupola as separate pieces.

[haasmarc]

Chris,  are you sure you got all the liquid resin off before UV curing it?

[wcfn100]

Mine showed up today.  Hopefully being delivered upside down won't affect anything. 

Jason

[narrowminded]

Mine showed up today.  Hopefully being delivered upside down won't affect anything. 

Jason

New thread title:  Manycubic Photon.  

Carry on.

[Chris333]

Chris,  are you sure you got all the liquid resin off before UV curing it?

I don't really know how you can tell. I put it in 91% alcohol and stipple it with a brush, then put it in the ultrasonic cleaner. Then put it into a cleaner tub of alcohol, brush, and ultrasconic clean. Utrasonic clean one more time in plain water. Then blow it off with air before curing for 30min.

[rodsup9000]

Mine showed up today.  Hopefully being delivered upside down won't affect anything. 

Jason

  I don't think it will,

[haasmarc]

I don't really know how you can tell. I put it in 91% alcohol and stipple it with a brush, then put it in the ultrasonic cleaner. Then put it into a cleaner tub of alcohol, brush, and ultrasconic clean. Utrasonic clean one more time in plain water. Then blow it off with air before curing for 30min.

Sounds like that should do it.

[Mark W]

Mine showed up today.  Hopefully being delivered upside down won't affect anything. 

Jason

My office is adjacent to the front door.  I heard the loud TWANNGGG from Mrs. FedEx shoving the box into the metal stoop railing when dropped off.  Luckily they're packed quite well.

I don't really know how you can tell. I put it in 91% alcohol and stipple it with a brush, then put it in the ultrasonic cleaner. Then put it into a cleaner tub of alcohol, brush, and ultrasconic clean. Utrasonic clean one more time in plain water. Then blow it off with air before curing for 30min.

Sounds like good clean and curing process.  Did you scrub through the slices pre-print to make sure everything looks to be in place?  The individual slices will help confirm that specific details are accounted for in the print, and help identify if anything is 'floating'; being printed without a previous layer supporting it.