Speaking of cheap hobby lathes...

[narrowminded]

Thank you all, folks.  Yes, I am well aware of the Sherline products, and also Taig, and all the stuff from Little Machine Shop.

The Micro Mark lathe, I believe,  USED to be from the same China manufacturer that all the lower-end Grizzly and Harbor Freight lathes come from.  But now they only carry a more expensive 7x16 model and it does not look like the other 7x10 or 7x12 machines.

I can say this, I'm not unhappy at all with the Seig (China) mill (which I bought through Micro Mark).  I paid under 600 bucks for it, including shipping, back in the 90s, and it's darn good (except for the vertical axis Z motion, which runs on a rack and pinion and is the bane of all lower-end mills).

Harbor Freight also sells an 8x12 that is 250 lbs (vs about 90 for the 7x10 or 7x12 models), and the reviews on HF's site seem to indicate that the 8" version is a whole class better than the 7's - much heavier, more rigid, better made.  Of course, it's also $1000 instead of 600.

The Micromark 7" x 16" IS the same basic machine and shares all of the same parts with the exception of the slightly longer bed and different motor and/ or control.  There aren't any other differences.  As far as the 8" goes, I see the weight difference and that will probably result in minor increased cut capacity per pass.  I suspect that a good part of that weight could be the headstock housing which is aluminum on the 7" and I suspect iron on the 8", as well as the bigger motor and longer bed.  Could be helpful if cutting steel and SS frequently and cutting larger (relative) diameters.  Still only 200#+ shipping weight, not net machine weight.  For comparison, my Takisawa 15" lathe in my shop was 2400# net weight.  It would hog.   None of these will do that nor do I find it very important making smaller nonferrous parts from typically 1" or less materials.  Smaller multiple cuts will get it done.  That was my need and I suspect yours.  I primarily cut 1" and under and have seldom had larger than 2 1/2" aluminum or Delrin bar in it.  And those jobs weren't modelling.  Someday I will need it for a larger flange, probably making a fixture.

The 8" also has more HP, commensurate with capacity and potentially heavier cut capacity.  If you're going to cut in the larger (4"?) diameter range that could be helpful for rigidity affording a heavier cut capacity.  The downside to that headstock is it takes a belt position change with six fixed speeds whereas the 7" has infinitely variable speeds with a gear lever for high and low range and a potentiometer knob for speed within the range.  The variable speed is VERY convenient with a twist of the knob changing speed for rough and finish pass or just to move the vibration frequency, faster or slower by trial if a cut is not running smooth.  The 8" requires stopping and moving belts for every speed change.  That results in too often not changing the speed and living with it or trying to coax the cut.  At least that's my experience having had an old 10" Jet for my first machine with fixed speeds, back in the day.  Human factors are funny like that.

On either machine, cutting at the diameter will only apply to flanges up at the chuck due to swing over the saddle and even then there will be limitations by cross slide travel and getting the tool in position to take full advantage of that swing.  Available for the 7" (useful on flanges near capacity only) is an extended cross slide travel kit from Little Machine Shop but I haven't and don't think I will find a need, but I do understand why some might find it helpful.  There is no spec that I could find on swing over saddle for the 8" lathe (there should be) but it is 4 1/2" for the 7" lathe.  The 8" will likely be little to no different but if that's an anticipated issue it could bear mightily on your decision. 

If you would choose to go with any of the 7" x ? from any of the vendors selling them, I would treat the following as must have accessories. These are all from Little Machine shop.  Advise and quality selection aided by their expertise with these machines is an advantage to dealing with them.  And their prices are generally in line if not the best.

1) 3" or 4", 4 jaw independent chuck.   Obviously used for square or rectangular parts but also, in conjuntion with a dial indicator, for setting up a round part perfectly trued to center. I bought a 3". Remember that swing over saddle  is only 2 3/4" diameter and also, a 3" square will be 4 1/4" across corners.  I bought this one.  https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1175&category=566826475 
4" may require an adapter, available at a reasonable cost.

2) Quick change tool post. Very specifically this one. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3112 
You'll likely want extra tool holders which are available from LMS as well as Shars and others.  Shars is another supplier that if you're not familiar with is a supplier of well priced machine tooling and accessories.  They are primarily supplying to working shops and as such are selective in the products they sell.  They sell a lot of the Chinese tools but they stay away from the junk.  They are a reliable buffer, somebody you can order from with reasonable assurance that it will be acceptable quality and at a decent price.

3) Adjustable carriage stop.  I treat it as a must have.  Needs a little milled piece added to finish it as it should have been made.   This is VERY handy and especially when used in conjunction with a cheap digital readout mounted for the carriage travel.  If you go with this machine I would be happy to show you the details on this. Also how I've found it handy to use with the digital readout for quick, easy, first time every time repeatability. 
This. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2705&category=

4) A chip guard bought or made to keep chip from finding its way into the carriage gear.  Why the factory didn't do this is baffling.  Cheap and easy.  It's a simple piece of clear plastic film.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2960&category=1

5) You might find this useful for your review but also as a manual if you purchase a 7" machine.  It's written by somebody who knows the machines and is neither a lawyer nor a Chinese translator.  https://littlemachineshop.com/images/gallery/Info/MiniLatheUsersGuide.pdf

6) I bought this carriage lock and it's handy, would be especially useful if you were running a milling adapter on your carriage, but I haven't found it as useful as I thought it would be.  This is mainly because I'm not using carbides and taking heavy facing cuts so the inclination to push the carriage isn't much AND I find it natural just to hold it against the carriage stop when facing.  I have used it and will, it's not a bad option, but I wouldn't treat it as such a "must have" as the other items I listed.  And any of these things can be added at any time if a need is discovered.  Here it is.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2977&category=

As far as cutting tools go, you can get a set of indexable carbide tools but I find that for these machines and my use, that sharpening my own high speed tool steel cutters is best.  Carbides are pressure tools and really want high speed (SFPM) and also tend to have pretty big nose radii (relative, .004"+, check specs).  Those radii are good for tool life WHEN the set up is rigid and you're pushing them.  The small diameters and small parts I'm running in non ferrous materials don't need that help and in fact it can cause trouble on small diameter parts due to pushing, due to the radius as well as the pressure.  The high speed steels can be run at about the capacity of the machine, leave an adequate transition radius, and all with a radius little more than is accomplished with a hand finishing stone.  That is one I learned while running this but if I had thought about it enough going in I should have seen it.  I did see it instantly once I started using it and saw how it acted.  This isn't just about the machine capabilities but about the parts being made where much of a radius at all is too big.  I have and occasionally use the carbide insert tools but...

If you purchased one of these and wanted to add a digital scale I could add some things about about options and mounting.  It's pretty simple and can be accomplished with an inexpensive scale ($25 ?) and minimal work.

I hope this helps and if you purchase one I'd be honored to help out where I can.  Probably worth a phone conversation if it gets to that.

[up1950s]

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-4-x-6-Micro-Metal-Lathe/G0745?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-7eVoPWk3gIVhgmRCh0z6wpIEAQYASABEgKakvD_BwE

Not quite, but close.  It's a 4x6 for $481

But beware... machines this small have awfully small motors, low torque, and are probably a lot more frustrating than they are worth.  The 7x10 can be had at HF, with their ever-present 20% off coupon for about $450, and if you pick it up at the store, you don't have to pay shipping.  It's hard to justify looking for a smaller, cheaper machine.

Thanks Max , close enough for horseshoes , grenades , or nukes . I ordered the grizzly ! Just what my couch in the den needed .

[narrowminded]

I just corrected a few of the links in my above post.  Had some wrong.

[mmagliaro]

Thanks for all that info, Narrowminded!

Yes, I think that the variable speed control on the 7" model would outweigh any of the gains I might see in the larger 8" machine for the relatively soft, slow milling we are doing for this hobby, and although the hefty weight means it is more rigid, who really wants to have to lug around and set up a 250 lb machine when it is isn't really necessary?

Richie... good luck with that "micro" mill.  I'm not sure it has the torque or precision you need, though I'm not sure what you plan to do with it.  It has only a 1/5th hp motor, comparge to 3/4 on the 7" lathes, and I found a YouTube video by a guy who has one of those micro mills, who bought pulleys and made adapter parts to change the pully/belt reduction so that it runs slower, but gives him more torque, because he was getting frustrated trying to relatively mild cuts.

For light passes in brass, aluminum and plastic, it should be okay as long as you don't try to do more than, say, .020" per pass.  Even that might be too much on a larger part.

[narrowminded]

Yes, I think that the variable speed control on the 7" model would outweigh any of the gains I might see in the larger 8" machine for the relatively soft, slow milling we are doing for this hobby, and although the hefty weight means it is more rigid, who really wants to have to lug around and set up a 250 lb machine when it is isn't really necessary?

The speed control is sooo convenient.   And as far as cutting capacity, when I'm using it, most often in brass or aluminum, it takes all of the cut I want and as fast as I want.  Both seconds.   I don't find I'm really adjusting anything about the cut due to machine capacity.  It takes all I've really wanted. 

When I purchased this I also looked pretty hard at the power feed rates and wished that it might have some lower feeds available.  I even made an adapter to use the power feed drill motor that I rigged for my mill but in reality, I have seldom engaged the power feed, adapted or factory, other than the few times I've cut threads with it.  And with the tools I'm running it doesn't seem to help nor hurt the finish. In my professional life I would commonly be making multiple inch to a foot long and more pass and that was a very important thing.  On this thing, if it had no power feed at all, now that I've used it as I will, I wouldn't be bothered in the least (other than threading).  I didn't think that going in.

Good luck with whatever you do.

... and when this is done, add a high speed piggyback spindle to that mill.   You'll have a whole new set of capabilities.

[wvgca]

i have two out in the garage, both old without any cnc stuff on them ..
the gisholt will take things up to 16 inch diameter, was basically free ...  needed a normal chuck
for 600 canadian, and a 5 hp single phase motor for maybe 200 or so, and some paint and grease ...

the other is a small south bend, about 10 or 12 by 48 inch ,, just used for armatures and small stuff like that ..

thinking about a real small one that I can carry to take down stairs though, not sure what brand,
but will [probably] be more than the other two for dollar value

[PaulP]

[wazzou]

I love posts that have pictures and no commentary.

[narrowminded]

That's quite the rig, Paul.   And I think I see a 4 axis mill hidden off to the left.

I'd love to see some examples of what you're making with those.

[PaulP]

Sometimes it just a replacement motor for a poorly cast metal one to port holes and spotlights to mast parts for models. Mostly I have been making tooling for my machines which isn’t appropre to post on a model RR forum. If your a Facebook member I think the Sherline Mill and Lathe group is a public group and you can see a lot of the stuff I have been building. I just came across a Sherline CNC mill and lathe and have all kinds of crazy model  ideas to try. 

[narrowminded]

Very cool.  Thanks.

[up1950s]

I love posts that have pictures and no commentary.

But every picture .............. Like he has , or makes time to clean it up after last use . Maybe too clean .

It shows that not just in cleaning he is a neat freak , evidenced by the chuck rack upper right , and the keys in the chucks that fit and or he likes to use with each chuck .

I wonder if he welded that lathe cozy up himself as I see no wire protector in the back wall hole on the upper left .

Quite the nice setup that anybody would be proud to own . I could only dream to have .

[peteski]

Thanks for all that info, Narrowminded!

Yes, I think that the variable speed control on the 7" model would outweigh any of the gains I might see in the larger 8" machine for the relatively soft, slow milling we are doing for this hobby, and although the hefty weight means it is more rigid, who really wants to have to lug around and set up a 250 lb machine when it is isn't really necessary?

Richie... good luck with that "micro" mill.  I'm not sure it has the torque or precision you need, though I'm not sure what you plan to do with it.  It has only a 1/5th hp motor, comparge to 3/4 on the 7" lathes, and I found a YouTube video by a guy who has one of those micro mills, who bought pulleys and made adapter parts to change the pully/belt reduction so that it runs slower, but gives him more torque, because he was getting frustrated trying to relatively mild cuts.

For light passes in brass, aluminum and plastic, it should be okay as long as you don't try to do more than, say, .020" per pass.  Even that might be too much on a larger part.

That is why I think that a Sherline lathe is more than adequate for machining N scale parts.  And it is light enough for me to carry and move it.    And as Paul clearly demonstrates in his photo, you can go all out with yours if you want (slowly or all at once). Sherline also keeps adding all sorts of accessories to their line.

Some guys in this thread are obviously "real" machinists, used to man-size machines.    I'm a hobbyist, working on very small parts.  I don't have a need for a larger lathe.

[peteski]

But every picture .............. Like he has , or makes time to clean it up after last use . Maybe too clean .

It shows that not just in cleaning he is a neat freak , evidenced by the chuck rack upper right , and the keys in the chucks that fit and or he likes to use with each chuck .

I wonder if he welded that lathe cozy up himself as I see no wire protector in the back wall hole on the upper left .

Quite the nice setup that anybody would be proud to own . I could only dream to have .

The tailstock also looks custom made (or at least modified).

[jdcolombo]

Crap.

Now I want a lathe, though I'd have to have someone teach me how to use it . . .

When I was in high school, I desperately wanted to take two classes: typing and machine shop.  But back in the early 70's, you couldn't do that if you were designated on the "college track."  Instead, I had to take a high-school physics course that taught me literally nothing I didn't already know or could easily learn from science treatises.  Typing and machining, on the other hand were skills that you had to learn from someone that knew what they were doing, and required repeat practice on the appropriate machines.

Maybe 50% of my "college track" courses in high school were useful in college.  A few (actually, trigonometry was one of these) were useful for adult life.  Typing would have been MORE useful, for college and now everything we do on computers.  Machine shop would have been a useful skill for life.  If I were king, everyone - male/female/gender neutral - would be required to take typing, machine shop and a basic course in auto repair in high school.  No exceptions.  Even a kid who ended up being a neurosurgeon would benefit from these courses.

Sigh . . .

John C.