Lifelike SW9 Loksound installation (N scale)

[Steveruger45]

I just read up on the Zimo MX660. It looks like a very well thought out decoder.

I agree, but I’m not so comfortable with Zimo’s business model for sound files plus the comparative lack of free diesel files and make an investment in yet more proprietary hardware.

[craigolio1]

I agree, but I’m not so comfortable with Zimo’s business model for sound files plus the comparative lack of free diesel files and make an investment in yet more proprietary hardware.

Indeed. When you factor the cost of the decoder and then a sound file on top of that, and for the first one anyway a programmer, it’s a big investment. And there aren’t a lot of US sound files to choose from anyway.

[skytop35]

Jim was kind enough to remotor this one for me so I could cram in the electronics. Can't believe how well it runs and sounds!

[Curtis Kyger]

With the weight removed from the cab to make room for the speaker, how many cars can this switcher pull? 

[Jim Starbuck]

Looks great Bill!

[Jim Starbuck]

With the weight removed from the cab to make room for the speaker, how many cars can this switcher pull?

I haven’t loaded mine down to see what it maxes out at but it pulls 12 cars and a caboose around the Unitrak oval without any problems.
Makes a nice looking patrol.

[tehachapifan]

Jim-

I know this is an old thread, but I'm moving closer to doing this motor retrofit on an SW1200 and I was hoping for an update on how your loco is running these days. I've read some cautionary tales on coreless motors and DCC and was wondering if you've had any issues and/or if you've made any CV adjustments to better accommodate this motor.

I've had a bad run lately with motor failures (standard brush type), so I'm a little apprehensive about this retrofit.

Thanks!

[Jim Starbuck]

Russ, 

I haven’t had to do a thing to the decoder as far as making any motor adjustments. The ESU decoders seem to get along with coreless motors very well. The only change I’ve made to the engine is to replace the stock wheels with Katos which improved electrical pickup and appearance.
This engine has 3 capacitors and they’re only 100uf each because that’s what I had on hand. At some point I want to replace them with higher value ones in the same case size.
I’ve put some time on the engine the last two times we’ve had the layout set up and it’s given no indication of any problems with the motor.
I used the same coreless motor in an Arnold S2, Atlas MP15 and my HH660 which has at least as much if not more run time than the SW1200 and it’s doing just fine.
Hope this helps.

Jim

[tehachapifan]

OK, good to know it's still running well and did not require special programming. I see ESU includes some CV settings for coreless motors in their manual, but it sounds like they're not needed here.

Thanks!

[tehachapifan]

….also, how did you affix the brass tubing "sleeves" to the motor shaft and worm shaft? ACC? The motor shafts are pretty short and seems like using anything that close to the motor bearings is potentially troublesome.

[tehachapifan]

OK, I have the new motor (with Tomix worms) installed in a LL SW1200 chassis for a test run on DC and, after several incredibly fine motor cradle height adjustments, it is now running SILKY smooth. I'm extremely pleased with the running quality! Now the trick is coming up with a way to lock the cradle height in place, as even slight changes in the cradle height results in terrible noise and poor running. The cradle is pretty snug in the frame as is, as it fits right into some indents in the frame halves (after some filing of the cradle as mentioned by Jim earlier in this thread), and requires a bit of force to nudge and end or corner up or down. Still, I would imagine the height could be accidentally knocked out of adjustment without some sort of way to lock it in-place better. I looked for areas the could be shimmed but I don't really see a place to do that, except for above the fuel tank...which doesn't run the total length of the motor cradle and seems like it would be only somewhat helpful at best. Jim, what did you do to lock the cradle in place?


Update: I spoke too soon or jinxed myself by saying it's running smooth. Something must've gone out of adjustment and now it's a running mess. All kinds of noise and hopping around. Can't seem to find the sweet spot again. I fear this is going to be an ongoing issue short of a way to positively lock the cradle in place once sweet spot is (hopefully) found again.

[tehachapifan]

Kind of feel like I'm talking to myself, but I did get the mechanism running silky smooth again. Turned out the worms would get slightly out of alignment for whatever reason, even though the sleeves were pretty snug. The sleeve I put on the longer worm side was probably a little too short, unlike in Jim's example above, and the one on the other end had to be short anyway due to the wider collar on the shaft, so both were letting the shafts get a little out of alignment over time. I soldered both joints one I had everything nicely aligned again and now everything is staying true (so far). The loco is done now and operating perfectly. Thanks, Jim, for blazing this trail!

[Jim Starbuck]

Russ,

Sorry I didn’t see your post earlier.
Awsome that it’s running well for you!
After I got the height adjusted I put a dab of clear Gallery Glass which is much like Micro Krystal Kleer through each one of the 4 holes in the sides of the frame. White glue would probably work too as you just want something to firm up and hold the tab in place within the frame slot.
I doesn’t take much to keep the motor cradle in place once you get it where it’s running well.

Glad you took the plunge on this project.

Jim

[peteski]

Kind of feel like I'm talking to myself, but I did get the mechanism running silky smooth again.

Oh no, we are reading your updates. At least I am.  I just didn't have anything to add.

[Jim Starbuck]

Somehow I missed several updates on this. I sure didn’t mean to leave you hanging Russ.
You had asked how I affixed the extension tubes to the motor shafts. Yes, I used ACC. I figured with the flywheel pressed on nothing could get to the motor bushing and it only took an extremely small amount.