Arnold-Rapido FA2 Resurrection

[daniel_leavitt2000]

What decoder are you using? How is the control?

I always wondered what a good decoder could do for a mediocre engine. Love the paint by the way.

[peteski]

What decoder are you using? How is the control?

I always wondered what a good decoder could do for a mediocre engine. Love the paint by the way.

Just an average decoder. See https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=45378.msg588287#msg588287

Looks great George - and if it runs well too, then you did a great job!   

[wm3798]

That's a helluva rebuild, George.  There was the carcass of one of these in a junk drawer at the Delmarva Club, and I was always baffled by it.  The drive and the shell was there, but there were definitely bits missing, notably a truck... Without the original equipment, it's hard to do a full restore.

You've done an impressive job with that!

Now I've got to work on getting some headlights into my new (to me) fleet of Trix F units and FM switchers...

I don't plan to decoder any of them or monkey with their flanges, as they will be running only on my retro layout.  Plus one day, maybe, they might have some sort of collectible value... maybe...

Lee

[nickelplate759]

The decoder is a DZ126.   The control is fine - but the control was fine on DC for this engine as well.   Some wise person here once said something to the effect that if you are trying to get an engine to run well on DCC you should start by getting it to run well on DC.      In this case, once the contacts were cleaned up, alignment fixed and everything lubed it ran just fine (even creeps on DC pulse).

[ncbqguy]

I got into N Scale in 1964 because i was frustrated with the lack of prototipically correct cars and even key scratchbuilding supplies to model the CB&Q.
I developed the fictional "Galesburg &Savanna" which just happened to "have" what N Scale manufacturers were making.
I decided they would have ALCO power so went through a progression of building a fleet of FA units:
MRC FA2 kitbashed FB2
Arnold FA2
(Considered using MRC FA2, Arnold FA2, and Con-Cor PA parts to make masters to cast resin shells to correct the nose contours)
Atlas FA1 (kitbashed FB1s)
LifeLike FA/FB 2 with plastic frames
LifeLike FA/FB 2 & FA/FB 1 split frames

Now that I am scaling back my never built layout plans I am back to modeling the CB&Q and thus have the remanents of five generations of FA power that never turned a wheel in revenue service!
Charlie Vlk

[mmagliaro]

...
Some wise person here once said something to the effect that if you are trying to get an engine to run well on DCC you should start by getting it to run well on DC.     
...

THIS.
(And no, it wasn't necessarily me who said this.  Plenty of people have said it, because it's the truth!)

[propmeup1]

I had that very same PC from Christmas 1968. It no longer runs and is now painted PA but when she ran she ran good and could pull. I'd love to get it back running again just for the sake of it. My very first N scale set it was in.

[nickelplate759]

...
Microscale decals are good, aren't they. I used the same ones for the Treble-O-Lectric F7 I turned into a PC version and they are so easy to use. They won't break and really don't need covering except to protect them.

Doug

By the way, the Illinois Central reefer behind #1350 was also lettered with Microscale decals.

[nickelplate759]

I had that very same PC from Christmas 1968. It no longer runs and is now painted PA but when she ran she ran good and could pull. I'd love to get it back running again just for the sake of it. My very first N scale set it was in.

It's a pretty simple mechanism.  There's a good chance that it doesn't run only because the contacts are oxidized.   A couple of simple tests to try:

1. Remove the fuel tank. It just pulls straight down.
2. Remove the trucks.  Just turn and jiggle them until the come out. 
3. If you look at the bottom of the frame where the fuel tank was, you should see two bronze clips (riveted on) that hold the brushes in place.  If you swing them off of the brushes the brushes can fall out, so DON'T do that.  Instead, try applying power directly to the brushes  (or the clips) and see if the motor turns.  If it does, then your problem is likely oxidized contacts.  I had to disassemble mine and burnish all the contact points (especially where the truck wipers touch the frame), but now it runs just fine.

You will probably need to lubricate the motor bearings as well - you'll need to remove the chassis from the body to do that, but if you've gotten this far that's easy.

[wm3798]

I managed to get a pair of these to operate on the Retro layout.  They are elegantly simple.

I will probably add headlights following your method.

I found that, while a bit noisy, the brass gears aren't the main problem.  The motor is simply clipped to the PC board underframe, and it vibrates terribly if the clips aren't perfectly tight.  I had to take one of the boards apart to clean it, and I found that putting a dab of rubber cement between the motor and the PC board forms enough of a gasket to significantly reduce the noise.

Did you make any attempt at glazing the cab windows?  The frame is pretty thick, so adding something to the inside doesn't look like it will work.  Just curious.

I plan to paint one in a Western Maryland fireball scheme, and perhaps do the Penn Central scheme you did on the other.  You've set the bar pretty high.

Lee

[Nato]

       I still have two that Revell Rapido offered in Union Pacific Paint, only one locomotive number was ever offered so they both have the same road number and have the newer plastic horns. They still run, and yes early sound (coffee Grinder) . No they were never offered with headlights. A member of the old Utah N Rail Modelers UNR 2 now Wasatch N Scale club carefully spray painted one in gold so he could pass it off as brass. Great pullers, but after long term running the shells did get toasty. Nate Goodman. (Nato).