Kato Mikado DCC conversion

[jdcolombo]

I did what Powersteamguy did - routed wires back to the tender, but this was for a sound installation.   Even so, I'd do it for a non-sound install, because the Kato Mike needs all the weight it can get - even with the traction tire conversion, it's somewhat limited on its tractive effort.  And I've never had a problem with the wires causing a derailment.  I used a 4-wire TCS micro plug harness (two wires for the motor, two for the headlight; I didn't run wires for track pickup from the boiler to the tender and instead relied on the tender drawbar and a keep alive for electrical continuity).  http://store.sbs4dcc.com/TCS14754-pinMicroConnectorMultiColor.aspx

You could also use some ESU 36-gauge decoder wire, which is even more flexible than the TCS harness wire.

As for shell removal post-installation - first, there's quite a bit of wire running back to the tender, so you can still pull off the shell - you just can't pull it off and set it fully aside.  And second - how many times are you going to want to pull the shell off?  Never, would be my hope, and given Kato's overall quality, I suspect that will be true most of the time.

Plus, doing the wiring this way allows for an easy conversion to sound later if the mood strikes you.

John C.

[nickelplate759]

where would you recommend running the wires through the engine?

[RBrodzinsky]

The one thing I do on these, which allows you to disassemble (sort of) easily, is to cut a "T" in the front of the tender where the wires get routed.  I file out the bottom two louvers on the front of the coal bin in the tender, then cut a T into that slot, through the step. This lets me slip the tender shell over the wires (I bring 5, motor(2), track(2) and light(1) back, and use the chip Peteski mentions for the common+) as everything gets crammed together. 

My most recent documented set of Kato Mike ESU installs is here https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44020.msg564101#msg564101, but no photos of the final "stuffed" tender.

[nickelplate759]

OK, you have all convinced me.  I'm going to be brave (for me) and run the wires through the backhead.

@RBrodzinsky - the weathering on your NKP #678 is really nice!

[RBrodzinsky]

@RBrodzinsky - the weathering on your NKP #678 is really nice!

Thanks, I really enjoyed weathering that bunch.

[conrad]

I took the easy way out and installed an esu lokpilot nano into the boiler.

One word of advice: be very careful not to damage the drawbar (p/n 937010).  It is fragile and no longer in stock with Kato.

As I remember, way back, there were problems with the original drawbar design vis-a-vis pickup problems if bent.

Conrad

[peteski]

I took the easy way out and installed an esu lokpilot nano into the boiler.

One word of advice: be very careful not to damage the drawbar (p/n 937010).  It is fragile and no longer in stock with Kato.

As I remember, way back, there were problems with the original drawbar design vis-a-vis pickup problems if bent.

Conrad

So you have 2 decoders in that loco (motor control in the loco, and sound in the tender), or is your loco silent?

[conrad]

Just a Lokpilot in the boiler.  But sound in the tender is not a bad idea.   Easy wiring.

What I originally did for sound was use a Digi sound only SFX0416 decoder in a trailing boxcar.  Now, however for the last year or so, I'm into JMRI's VSD sound running thru the computer.  Much better bass, volume, etc.  Works well with my small, hollow core door home layout.  I have found that n scale sound locos get really overwhelmed at public NTrak and TTrak shows.  The crowd noise is just too great, to say nothing of nearby HOTrak and Garden Railway guys.

Conrad

PS Silent is an understatement for the Kato Mikado.  Other than at warp speed, there is just no noise. 

[peteski]

Just a Lokpilot in the boiler.  But sound in the tender is not a bad idea.   Easy wiring.

Well yes and no.  Without a motor the sound decoder will not be happy (both for programming in program track and chuff synchronizarion). But reading ahead, you don't seem to be too worried about sound synchronized to the driver rotation.

What I originally did for sound was use a Digi sound only SFX0416 decoder in a trailing boxcar.  Now, however for the last year or so, I'm into JMRI's VSD sound running thru the computer.  Much better bass, volume, etc.  Works well with my small, hollow core door home layout.  I have found that n scale sound locos get really overwhelmed at public NTrak and TTrak shows. 

Yes, self-contained N scale sound at train shows is usually drowned out by the ambient noise.  But I'm not a big proponent of the "big" sound supposedly coming from the tiny N scale models.  To me sound needs to be in scale with the model. It just doesn't seem right that a 4" long model would produce deep bass sound which I could feel vibrating my belly.

Years ago (IIRC, late '80s) a fellow NTRAKker built a Diesel sound simulator (from plans ini Model Railroader magazine).  He had a module depicting an engine-service facility, with a working transfer table, and he usually switched bunch of engines back and forth on that module during the show.  Well, he brought that simulator along with his home stereo amp and large speaker system.  Hooked it up to his module's throttle, and to the amp, and cranked up the volume!  He had that thing blaring earth-shaking Diesel noise most of the show.  You could hear (and feel) it on the far end of the building!  We finally told him to "put a sock in it" and lower the volume, towards the end of the show, because we were all sick of it!

Second example was few years ago at the same venue (Shriner's Auditorium). Our NTRAK layout was set up next to a Kato dealer who was demonstrating Kato's "sound box".  And he also had it hooked up to a powerful audio amp and large speaker system.   By the end of the show most of us had a headache!

Big sound?  No thanks!  Little trains - little sound, thank you!

[conrad]

Well yes and no.  Without a motor the sound decoder will not be happy (both for programming in program track and chuff synchronizarion). But reading ahead, you don't seem to be too worried about sound synchronized to the driver rotation.

I got around programming issues with the Digitrax SFX0416 programmable sound only decoder by connecting a resistor in the light circuit.  For synchronization, I consist the "boxcar" as "top" with the loco; thus bells, horns, chuffs all follow along.

Big sound?  No thanks!  Little trains - little sound, thank you!

You are correct, big sound can be a pain especially for 8 hours at a show.  At home, I enjoy it, just not for too long.

Conrad

[conrad]

Peteski,

Sorry, I stuck part of my response into your quote.

Conrad

[mike_lawyer]

What I have done on GHQ conversions of Kato Mikados is place the decoder in the front, replacing the LED circuit board.  Take two pieces of brass strips and replace them in the slots where the LED circuit board used to be.  Solder the right and left decoder power wires to those brass strips, then run the motor wires back to the motor.  Makes for a nice tidy DCC installation without having to run wires back to the tender.

[peteski]

Peteski,

Sorry, I stuck part of my response into your quote.

I got around programming issues with the Digitrax SFX0416 programmable sound only decoder by connecting a resistor in the light circuit.  For synchronization, I consist the "boxcar" as "top" with the loco; thus bells, horns, chuffs all follow along.

Well, some (higher-end decoders) actually use the motor's BEMF to synchronize chuffs not to the speed step setting coming from the throttle, but to the actual revolutions of the motor.  So you can get the desired 4 chuffs/rev. and if the loco is under load pulling a train, the chuffs get more laborious (just as if the loco was pulling heavy train). Then when the loco is coasting, the chuffs get very quiet.  Without having physical connection to the motor, those effects cannot be achieved.  But then again, Digitrax sound decoders are rather  basic and do not have any advanced chuff features, so I guess in your example, it makes no difference that the sound decoder is not tied to a motor.

[woodone]

These Mikado’s just keep on going and going.
I have done quite a few, have 6 of my own.
I have always put the decoder I the tender. Sound installs no non-sound. I have used Power Steam Guys instructions with very good results. I do vary a few things- I don’t solder the orange wire (or any color of wire to the lower brush connection. I use a small cut off motor lead and splice it to the lower brush lead, I extend that to the top of the motor retainer- then solder ESU wire to it and to the original light board per Bob’s instructions- I also replace the orange LED. Before I install the motor I put a piece of Kapton tape on the frame inside where the added strip will be.
I had one unit the the lower brush cap would touch the frame, just like Rich told us about, so yes you better keep, an eye open for that bitting your back side.
I run all my wires (5) over the flywheel just like Bob did. On the tender I cut out the lower part of the coal door, on the inside weight and holder I file those down so when the wires go into the tender they don’t catch and are free to move. After I have all the electrical parts stuck into the tender I then solder the black wires coming from the loco to the tender and add shrink. Seeing that I use all black wires, and you can’t know that wire is what- I solder a short piece of the correct wire to each loco wire before I close it up. That way when I trim and solder the loco wires to the decoder I know what goes where.
There is one thing I always cringe about when getting the loco back together— those little small tabs (or ears) that are at the front of the boiler shell. I have done a lot of locomotives but these always give me fits! I have only broken a few but again they are a bear- anyone have the cure to ease this?

0

[nickelplate759]

so, I'm in the middle of doing my Kato Mikado, and was roughly following PowerSteamGuy's writeup (except w/o sound).  I'm stumped by a simple thing - the orange wire.  I know it attaches to the lower brush holder, and PowerSteamGuy shows it running up the right side of the boiler under the shell.   HOWEVER, I can't get it to fit.  The plastic overlay for the lower boiler doesn't have room for a wire under it. 

So, how did others do this?  Cut a groove in the frame?