Kato Mikado DCC conversion

[trainforfun]

Hi
I have done about 150 dcc conversions but I have to do 2 Kato Mikado for somebody .
I remember seeing in the past that some people had insulating problem with wheels touching the frame .
There was a thread about adding an insulating washer .
Did I had a dream or there was really a thread about that ?
 

[woodone]

The Kato Mikado did not have this problem. The Kato GS-4 first run locomotives did.
The first run Mikado’s do have a driver problem. They used a small tab on the back side of the drivers to provide power from the wheel tread to the axle. These some times will fail, so you will be getting all rail power via the tender wheels.
With a sound install this does not at all times work well.

[trainforfun]

Thanks a lot !!!
Was mixing the models , kind of senior moment ....
Regular dcc no sound .

[RBrodzinsky]

There is one spot between the motor and frame that I always put a bit of Kapton, where one might not think to:  this is between the bottom motor contact cap and the lower frame, just over the drivers.  My very first decoder install in one of these kept having a short (found before power, thankfully), due to the cap just making light contact with frame.  Was fine with DC, since it was the right frame it was contacting.  I just feed a slice of Kapton in there, and have never had THAT problem since, on any install.

[trainforfun]

Thanks for the hint Rick !!!

[trainforfun]

OK I did two Mikado conversions . The first one took more time because I didn't want to break any little pieces around the boiler , smokebox and sides . These litle machines are so well done , no screws at all and it all fit together nicely !!
A couple of search on internet and I found exactly how to do the dismantling , the conversion and how to rebuilt .
They both run flawlessly .
I add momentum on CV 3 and 4 and didn't touch the top speed as it is about right on for a Mikado ( around 55 mph )
The second took about 1 1/2 hour from start to finish , not bad I think .
A lot easier to do a second one right away . 

[Lemosteam]

OK I did two Mikado conversions . The first one took more time because I didn't want to break any little pieces around the boiler , smokebox and sides . These litle machines are so well done , no screws at all and it all fit together nicely !!
A couple of search on internet and I found exactly how to do the dismantling , the conversion and how to rebuilt .
They both run flawlessly .
I add momentum on CV 3 and 4 and didn't touch the top speed as it is about right on for a Mikado ( around 55 mph )
The second took about 1 1/2 hour from start to finish , not bad I think .
A lot easier to do a second one right away .

@trainforfun Can you share the links to the stuff you found on the internet?

[trainforfun]

Here are the site I consulted :

Not the same because I used Digitrax DZ126T , no sound .
These sites helped me to dismantle the locos without breaking anything .


https://powersteamguy1790snewjjje.blogspot.com/2012/09/installing-esu-lok-sound-decoder-in.html

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/nkato_mikado.htm

[Lemosteam]

Thanks!

[peteski]

Powersteamguy1790 is no longer with us, but his blog is still active. However we don't know how long that will hold true.  I would recommend that if someone finds the info useful, save it to your own computer.

[RBrodzinsky]

I downloaded Bob's blog instructions a few years ago, and continue to refer to it every time I perform a Mikado decoder install.

[trainforfun]

Powersteamguy1790 is no longer with us, but his blog is still active. However we don't know how long that will hold true.  I would recommend that if someone finds the info useful, save it to your own computer.

He did a great job , I miss him .
Didn't realized he was our Powersteamguy . 

[trainforfun]

I had a problem with DCC at first when I tried the second steam loco but everything is fine .
Job done !!!

[nickelplate759]

I'm installing DCC in a Kato 2-8-2 for my P&WV project: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=48325.45.   I'll need to put decoders in a couple more 2-8-2 after that.

I can go two ways - put the decoder in the boiler, sacrificing some weight, or put it in the tender, as Powersteamguy documented, and run 4 wires back ahead to the engine.     

The problem with the tender install is those wires. Powersteam guy ran them through the backhead, but that means the shell can never be completely removed without unsoldering wires.  I haven't figured out a good alternative path for them.  The other issue with the wires is that they can be finicky and cause derailments if they get hung up.

The advantage of a tender install is that it's a little easier, and there is plenty of room for a keep-alive as well.

I like the simplicity of putting the decoder in the engine - but am not sure about giving up the weight.   

Anyone have experience to share?

[peteski]

I would put the decoder in the tender.  If you use a dual-diode blue wire "emulation", you only need 3 wires.  TCS, Ngineering, and ESU, all have very flexible wires available. Many steam loco models come with factory installed multi-wire connections between the tender and the loco. That should not be a problem.  As far as being able to disconnect the wire harness, use a tiny 3-pin connector. Those are available from either model RR suppliers or from electronic part distributors.

Here is the blue-less wire circuit info:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=42938.msg544287#msg544287