Troubleshooting Micro Engineering code 55 turnout

[nickelplate759]

Next turnout problem!
I have a couple of Micro Engineering code 55 turnouts with the same problem (I have some others that are just fine).   They are in gauge at either end of the points. They are in gauge when set for the straight route, but when set for the diverging route the are tight in the middle of the points.    Needless to say there are derailments.

Here's a picture
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This seems to be because the diverging point (the upper one in the picture) is not parallel to diverging rail throughout it's length.  It's straight, and the diverging rail is curved.  I've considered three options :
1. File the inside of the point in the middle, but I'm concerned that the point hinge can't take the stress, and I'm also concerned that I will have to remove so much material that the point will be weak.   
2. Somehow bend the point to a curve to match the diverging rail but I can't figure out how to do that in place, and without breaking the point hinge.   
3. File the diverging rail to be straighter.

[edit] I went with option 3, and so far it seems to be working.

[OldEastRR]

Brace the upper point outside edge with curved tweezers, with ends just outside where the orange line crosses the rail. Push gently but continuously on center of point rail's inside edge, till the rail has curved enough to solve the problem. The key is to firmly brace the ends of the rail from the opposite side you're pushing on so no pressure reaches the points or rail joiners that form the hinges.

[mmagliaro]

And if you file the insides of a point rail, always brace that rail from behind anyway.  I usually slip a
small straight jeweler's file in behind the point rail so I can file its inside face with good pressure without bending or distorting the point rail.

I had this gauge problem with some ME turnouts when I used them on my previous layout.   I filed the insides of the offending point rail to correct them.

[nkalanaga]

When I need to file the ends of points, or to resolder a loose one, I use a wooden tie.  The ME ties work fine, are very close to the NMRA recommendation for point gaps, and won't get soldered to the rails.

[nickelplate759]

Not really a problem with the turnout but...

I broke two turnouts trying to change the throw linkage that I had installed going to Tortoises, so I'm replacing them.  Originally, I removed the spring under the turnout that pushes the points all the way against the stock rails (e.g. "right" or "left") - because I was running the Tortoise linkage through the center of the throwbar between the rails.  This time I'm running the linkage through the end of the throwbar, so I could leave the spring in place.  The turnout will still be operated by the Tortoise.  So here's the question...

Keep the spring, or remove it?

[mmagliaro]

I have tried this both ways with the Peco with the built-in springs (leaving the spring and removing it).  Sometimes, by the time you get the Tortoise adjusted so that the throw wire exerts enough force to overcome the spring so it can snap the points over, it is exerting rather a lot of force against the stock rail when the points do close.  Or alternately, it can be finicky trying to get enough force from the Tortoise so that it can overcome the built-in spring in both directions.  I think it makes the whole process more difficult.  I'd clip the little spring out of there.

[NtheBasement]

Not really a problem with the turnout but...

I broke two turnouts trying to change the throw linkage that I had installed going to Tortoises, so I'm replacing them.  Originally, I removed the spring under the turnout that pushes the points all the way against the stock rails (e.g. "right" or "left") - because I was running the Tortoise linkage through the center of the throwbar between the rails.  This time I'm running the linkage through the end of the throwbar, so I could leave the spring in place.  The turnout will still be operated by the Tortoise.  So here's the question...

Keep the spring, or remove it?

Peco turnouts are sprung too, and what you do is go with a stiffer wire from the Tortoise to the throw bar than the one they provide with the Tortoise.  The machine is fully capable of throwing against the spring but the wire they supply bends too much.