I dun goofed

[daniel_leavitt2000]

I dare not even post a photo.

I spent the last two months working on two Briggs M420 kits for the Providence and Worcester. This is my second resin kit project. I bought a SAR F45 kit over a decade ago just before the Athearn engines came out. The project ended in disaster after the shell mysteriously melted. I guess it didn't like Floquil paint. It took 10 years before getting enough courage to try a resin kit again.

One of the engines has the stylish "Spagetti" scheme:
http://www.trainweb.org/trains/PW/PW2002.jpg

Something looked off today as I was laying the last of the decal striping. Then it hit me. I didn't trim the triple stripe area. This resulted in the "P&W" being off by 4 compartment doors on each side.

UGH

How could I miss something so basic?

So now I'm committed to it. Resin shells don't strip. The paint is far to fragile to try and remove the decals. And now I will be reminded of my idiocy every time I look at the damn thing.

[hegstad1]

SOOOOOOOO been there, done that.

[chessie system fan]

I can recommend one of these.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-eraseretching-kit-69277.html

[wcfn100]

Yup.



Only missed it by two doors. 

Jason

[Wardie]

I am glad normal plastic is more forgiving then resin. I have one Atlas RS-3 that has worn more paint scheme then the prototype did. The first time I painted it I didn’t know any better and used an RS-2 variation on it with the road name and numbers reversed. The next time I painted it I screwed up and used GP-7 stripes. Third time I got it right and the dullcote fogged and wouldn’t correct. 4th time is the charm, although after painting it I learned the prototype was a phase III body but at this point it looks good enough for me and I don’t dare use a resin long hood with my history with this unit.

[nickelplate759]

Did something similar on my VIA F40PHs - one of them has the VIA logo one door too far to the front on its right side.

[robtracy]

I have used an air eraser many times on “resin”, polyurethane, without any problems. You could also try Easy Lift Off (ELO).

[daniel_leavitt2000]

I use ELO on plastic models but have run into issues with resins. I might try my sand blaster, but i'm not sure it will take the paint and decals off but leave the resin. Resin is very soft. Maybe even softer than the paint.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

What about just hitting it with micro sol and some serious brushing?

[thomasjmdavis]

My own personal worst was turning a resin passenger car into a banana trying to get paint off of it by soaking (forget whether it was alcohol or simple green).  On painting and lettering, hopefully won't hex myself, but I am almost finished on the 3rd attempt on a pair of locos.  1st attempt, the paint dried the wrong color- manufacturer labeled it as a particular prototype color, but not close.  Stripped that, found another manufacturer, new paint. Perfect. Decals on, all set, sprayed with clear flat- dried looking like it had run through a snow storm.  Same can I had used 2 weeks earlier, but I guess that extra 2 weeks and something happened chemically.  Stripped it again. Now repainted and re-decaled and ready for a clear coat.  Wish me luck.

[craigolio1]

I used acetone to strip a resin model once and it didn't harm it in that case. Maybe try a drop on a spare piece and see what happens.

Craig.

[craigolio1]

Could you carefully cut the decal on the model
And remove the unwanted but with some really
Sticky tape, like Tuck Tape?

[nkalanaga]

Micro-Sol or Solvaset should remove the decal, without harming the paint or resin, if you haven't clear-coated it.

[johnb]

Could you carefully cut the decal on the model
And remove the unwanted but with some really
Sticky tape, like Tuck Tape?

do you tuck on a regular basis?

[learmoia]

do you tuck on a regular basis?

So I assume we're going in the cross dressing direction, in leu of an assumed typo of Duck. but apparently Tuck Tape is a thing..