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I have couple questions:Why did you chooses that particular (oddball, and often problem prone) high-mounted motor design over the standard design used on most N scale loco where the motor drives the chassis-mounted worms directly?Are most of the components (including truck and motor gears) will be 3D printed? I assume that the worms and wheel-sets will be commercially available items. How about the axle bearings/pickup plates? Etched brass or PB?
To answer your questions:This type of mechanism can be fit into smaller locomotives while keeping a larger motor. It also takes less space inside of the model for gear towers, so the whole thing is heavier. What makes you say it is more problem-prone?The trucks will be printed, but the gears will all be machined from delrin and brass, from off-the-shelf components. The pickup plates will be etched, and I will be designing a special tool that presses the points in it at adjustable intervals.
Will you be able to make Nn3 mechanisms (new trucks would be the only difference) for "standard gauge" locomotives, such as the WP&Y's DL535Es, the Army MRS units, and many export units? I'd love to have a bunch of RSD mechs for the early Atlas/Kato RS-3 bodies, instead of having to use MT Z SD40-2s.
Thanks Dave! How about the wheels themselves?If you were to use the Kato NW2 unit, the spur gears were prone to cracking and slipping in the shaft. That Kato motor is quite a bit smaller than the standard N scale Kato motor, but it has only a 3-pole skewed armature. Some modelers turn their noses at 3-pole motors. But if the power unit will be made by you then it shouldn't have that problem. Also, if you were to orient the motor so the flat sides are vertical then you could make even a narrower chassis.
David,What module gears are you planning to use? Standard N Scale stuff uses mod 0.3, but if you go to mod 0.2, you can get about a 40% speed reduction, which will let the motor rev higher, and get much more low-end power.It won't harm the top speed running at all, because typical "Kato geared" stuff always runs way too fast at full voltage anyway.I bring all this up now because I know from experience how much better a low-geared driveline works. I'm not proposingyou gear these down to the super-low speeds I tend to like in my own engines. I'm just suggesting that with mod 0.2 gears, it would be a lot easier to build mechanisms that top out around 60-70 mph at 12 volts, which is ideal for model railroad use.