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Even so, 23 isn't 25. And since decoders aren't dropping dead by the thousands every time they come near one of these power packs, whatever is going on is probably something that is right on the edge of the decoder's tolerance. It wouldn't surprise me at all to discover that a couple more volts in those pulses is enough to occasionally make these decoders fail (at the 25v mark).
If the failures are (also) happening with HO locos, whose decoders are supposed to withstand at least 27V, then the issue isn't with the power pack.For N scale, the decoders are supposed to withstand at least 24V and the MRC 1300 puts out 25V (by your measurements back on page 5) only when the throttle knob is fully advanced.What are the odds, in every case of a decoder failure associated with an MRC 1300, that the user has fully advanced the throttle knob?Is there some significant delay before a loco with one of the Rapido dual-mode decoders begins to respond which, in turn, might induce the user to turn the throttle knob up all the way because nothing initially appears to be happening?
Well, I don’t have my proof of purchase since MBK changed their website and BL wants $79 to fix a unit with less than 20 minutes run time. I just can’t stomach spending cash on this unit under these circumstances. May be time to look at gutting the whole thing into a dummy unit and run it with my Kato E5’s.
Well, I don’t have my proof of purchase since MBK changed their website and BL wants $79 to fix a unit with less than 20 minutes run time.
Given that the (N scale) decoders are supposed to withstand up to 24V, would you care to speculate as to what component on the decoder could possibly tolerate 24V but suddenly fail when 25V is applied? That seems to be a very narrow margin.
As for the components, It could be rectifier diodes, tantalum caps, internal voltage regulators, or possibly few others. You might ask, why not use components rated at higher voltage? Well, my answer is that those might cost more money, and the big one is "how high to go?".
If the decoders are really blowing up (I would like to get my hands on one of those fried ESU decoders), I doubt the answer is as simple as 1 Volt. I feel there are several variables at play (depending on a specific circumstances). Variable component quality might be one important factor. Some might be at the low range of their specs, others at the high end.As for the components, It could be rectifier diodes, tantalum caps, internal voltage regulators, or possibly few others. You might ask, why not use components rated at higher voltage? Well, my answer is that those might cost more money, and the big one is "how high to go?". After all, N scale DC model trains are usually rated for up to 12 or 14VDC. Who is to blame if DC throttles from certain manufacturers produce much higher output voltage?I have repaired a damaged decoder in the past, but it was not voltage related. It was likely caused by a short in the motor circuit. I also just received a blown MRC sound decoder which was supposedly damaged by a DC throttle. I have not had a chance to examine it, but a quick evaluation revealed that its wiring harness was pretty much melted (causing crossing wires to short out).Besides, this entire thread is based on speculations. Well, we know that certain throttles do produce fairly high track voltages, but no casualities have been examined here.
Why the ongoing reluctance by @rapidotrains to further address this matter and/or discuss the observations made throughout this thread?Their lack of response is becoming the major factor in my decision whether or not to ever buy any (more) of their products.
I haven't had time to draw up the schematic yet. But I can tell you this, there is a transformer, 4 diodes, one resistor,and one Darlington power transistor, plus the speed control pot. That's it. There's no filtering, no caps.There is a Polyfuse in there for overload protection, so all you would have to add to get an "overload light" would be 1k ohm resistor and LED wired across that Polyfuse. The LED would light any time the Polyfuse "opens". And I know this because I've used that exact same trick myself 100 times for an overload light. (Okay, not 100, maybe like, 12, but...)I forgot I hadn't posted the 1300 scope pics. Here they are: