Best Of Faux Code 40 track

[Dave V]

Leave it to DKS to make code 80 snap track look handlaid...   

[chessie system fan]

I like it.  The next logical step is to use US tie spacings.  The ballast covers everything under the new ties, after all.

This system would work well with unitrack.  If I  ever do this, I'd make a master of the ties and use a bunch of castings for ease of installation.  The sections could even be prepainted beforehand to make things even easier.   

Atlas code 55 ties are .040" high.  This could be whipped up very quickly.   Code 40 unitrack.    Hmmm...

[Dave V]

This system would work well with unitrack.

I'm not so sure...  Part of what makes this system viable is the thickness of the tie pieces so that they fit between the plastic ties.  Unitrack ties are only barely higher than the molded ballast surface making the required tie thickness and laser-cut notches so small as to be impractical.

However, I may not be looking at this right.

[DKS]

I like it.  The next logical step is to use US tie spacings.

Not practical under these circumstances--would love to have done this.

This system would work well with unitrack.  If I  ever do this, I'd make a master of the ties and use a bunch of castings for ease of installation.  The sections could even be prepainted beforehand to make things even easier.

What Dave said... also, I don't see the advantage of casting the ties, unless you're thinking of installing bunches of them at a time, and that would be tough to do with straights and curves and turnouts and such, all being different. But, like Dave said, I may not be grokking what you have in mind...

[chessie system fan]

What I have in my head is kind of like flex track without the rails.  I picture laying down a few (~2?) layers of tape--enough to create a little flash and hold everything together.  Stick that to the underside of the new ties.  Design the middle and two side pieces so they are a drop fit for straight unitrack.  Cast it.

This could work well for straights.  For curves, snip the flash a little on one side  of the middle piece so it will flex.  The outside would probably need extra work.  Turnout insides would have to be done by hand, or perhaps with another casting for kato #4's or #6's.

I think I'll experiment with this to see if it actually works.  It'll be about a week and a half before I'm able to get started though.

[davefoxx]

As promised, turnouts (and a pair of crossings as a bonus)...

That is incredible looking, even knowing that it's Code 80!

Can you install faux ties between the points that would slide along with the points?  That might disguise some of the rail height of the points.

Ooh, another idea.  Install a solid piece of thin styrene that fills the entire space between the points.  Then install the faux ties on top of that.  The sheet of styrene would allow some ballast between the faux ties that could pivot with the points and not gum up the turnout.  It might work.  Maybe.

DFF

[Chris333]

Points on real turnouts are often greasy and just look different from the rest on the track. It looks fine to me as is.

[Doug G.]

It looks dang good to me.

Doug

[learmoia]

Very nice.. the irregularity makes it look very realistic.  What switches are those?..

And I assume the double crossing is had laid?

[Angus Shops]

That looks terrific; it's a huge improvement. I'm not an expert in this this but aren't ties spaced a fair bit farther apart on secondary tracks? The tie spacing doesn't look too bad as long as you're not trying to model 'class 1' track, which you're not. And the slightly irregular and angled spacing adds to the effect. I think it's a great idea!
Geoff

[basementcalling]

As promised, turnouts (and a pair of crossings as a bonus)...









Low angle close-ups are obviously the most problematic, but normal viewing angles will be a little higher.

he's back.

David now that is so good you can't tell right away from looking at it but it's N Scale Track.

[DKS]

That is incredible looking, even knowing that it's Code 80!

Can you install faux ties between the points that would slide along with the points?  That might disguise some of the rail height of the points.

Ooh, another idea.  Install a solid piece of thin styrene that fills the entire space between the points.  Then install the faux ties on top of that.  The sheet of styrene would allow some ballast between the faux ties that could pivot with the points and not gum up the turnout.  It might work.  Maybe.

DFF

Thanks, all, I'm pretty excited by the results as well. Dave, I like your ideas, and if it was 8 or ten years ago, I might have tried something along these lines. As it is, I'm pleased enough that I could take it this far.

Points on real turnouts are often greasy and just look different from the rest on the track. It looks fine to me as is.

My thoughts exactly.

Very nice.. the irregularity makes it look very realistic.  What switches are those?..

And I assume the double crossing is had laid?

All of the track is vintage used Minitrix. The crossing isn't so much handlaid as hand-assembled. I took four pieces of track, including the switch, and hacked at them with a Dremel until the pieces all fit together, ground out slots in the rails, and soldered the guard rails to chunks of PC board cut into the ties.

Here's a shot of it just before it was finished, so you can see the components a little better.



 

[Lemosteam]

@David K. Smith , Brilliant.

May I take it one step further?

With 3D printing the new "ties" can be printed in 3 pieces, AND have an internal snap feature to both align the tie ends to the center, but also trap the part on the rail, allowing bench assembly and full flexibility when laying the track.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

For the various "special conditions", i.e. switches, crossings etc. special versions could be designed for them too.

With your permission (your idea), I will see if I can design this at all of the required SW specs.  I have done this particular tab design in FUD with great success.  the blocks on the inside prevent the snap tabs from breaking off.  I can also design in the plate to the top surface of the tie pieces, on the inside and outside of the rail.

[DKS]

@David K. Smith , Brilliant.

May I take it one step further?

With 3D printing the new "ties" can be printed in 3 pieces, AND have an internal snap feature to both align the tie ends to the center, but also trap the part on the rail, allowing bench assembly and full flexibility when laying the track.

(Attachment Link)

For the various "special conditions", i.e. switches, crossings etc. special versions could be designed for them too.

With your permission (your idea), I will see if I can design this at all of the required SW specs.  I have done this particular tab design in FUD with great success.  the blocks on the inside prevent the snap tabs from breaking off.  I can also design in the plate to the top surface of the tie pieces, on the inside and outside of the rail.

Hey, knock yourself out! The only problem I see is that there's no gaps under the rails--the plastic runs solid under the rails the length of the track, so there's no opportunity of shoving anything under them. Thus, retrofitting in situ (or even at the bench, for that matter) would be impossible. Had I thought of this before laying the track, I'd have pulled the rails out of the plastic ties altogether, and slid them through one-piece laser-cut ties with the profile of the rail base cut out. But this would have been as much of not more work than what I'm currently doing.

[Lemosteam]

Yes I see- I had forgotten about that.  It would be easier to pull the rails then and have a single piece design, or just buy ME c55 rail for a DIY track.

Was the Minitrix flex track with steel rail or sectionals?