Atlas Code 55 Turnouts...

[wazzou]

I guess you arrived at this technique after some trial and error. Did you, for instance, try another technique I'm aware of - simply removing the hinged portion of the point rails and using a rail joiner as a hinge for new points? If so, what about it led you to go solid all the way to the frog?

Just spitballing here, but my guess would be to eliminate the stamped point rails of the OEM turnout and fabricating new ones from actual lengths of rail.

[SP-Wolf]

Just spitballing here, but my guess would be to eliminate the stamped point rails of the OEM turnout and fabricating new ones from actual lengths of rail.

When ever one of my turnouts has an issue with the point rails -- I do exactly this. I replace from the points back to the frog. (A solid rail), It works great. I also insert a couple of PC ties to act as jumpers between the stock rails and point rails.

Wolf

[C855B]

Just spitballing here, but my guess would be to eliminate the stamped point rails of the OEM turnout and fabricating new ones from actual lengths of rail.

No, the cast (not stamped) point rails only go as far as the hinge. It's regular rail between the hinges and frog. My point (ha!) in asking is there must have been something of consequence preventing simple replacement of the point rails alone.

BTW, I'll say it now before somebody calls it out in a repeat of the previous discussion - Mark's modified turnout in the picture isn't finished yet. There are no gaps cut in the PC ties where they should be. As shown it's one big short-circuit.

[wazzou]

No, the cast (not stamped) point rails only go as far as the hinge. It's regular rail between the hinges and frog. My point (ha!) in asking is there must have been something of consequence preventing simple replacement of the point rails alone.

Whatever, cast-stamped...the fact is they are crap and part of the issue. 
I would add that the other benefit, in the long TO's it looks like Mark is using anyway, is it eliminates the hinge point altogether.

[Mark W]

Replacing the points only vs points and closure makes little difference in the end.  Both methods are light years ahead of the OEM points.  Personally, I find it's easier to just replace the points and closure rail as a single piece vs the effort to carve out a space to fit a joiner onto the existing closure rail.  The PCB ties also keep the rails in gauge better than plastic and provide power to the whole rail, avoiding the need for a jumper or extra feeders on the points.  On shorter turnouts, I'll notch rail foot to allow the points to move more freely.

[Angus Shops]

There are a lot of good reasons to hand build turnouts, not the least of which is cost. For a fraction of the cost of a commercial turnout you get a good looking accurately gauged custom sized product. Of coarse this doesn't include the value of your time needed to build them, but I enjoy an evening spent cranking out a couple of new turnouts. Personally, I prefer the solid point (no hinge) type; less parts to get damaged and arguably better electrical continuity.
I've never considered the possibility of replacing the points of a commercial turnout with new handmade ones; an inspired idea!
Geoff

[C855B]

Replacing the points only vs points and closure makes little difference in the end.  Both methods are light years ahead of the OEM points.  Personally, I find it's easier to just replace the points and closure rail as a single piece vs the effort to carve out a space to fit a joiner onto the existing closure rail.  The PCB ties also keep the rails in gauge better than plastic and provide power to the whole rail, avoiding the need for a jumper or extra feeders on the points.  On shorter turnouts, I'll notch rail foot to allow the points to move more freely.

You are absolutely right - it is a breeze to slide all of the old point rails out and slide the new in. To heck with trying to hinge them! I'll order the filing jigs and PC ties from Fast Tracks tomorrow and get this project on the road.

[wazzou]

@Mark W
Is that what you use for PCB ties, FastTracks?  Or do you use Cloverhouse or another source?

[MetroRedLine]

2. They have different tie thicknesses, so mixing them requires some shimming.  Tie lengths are also different.
 

As far as I've seen, Atlas flex and the wooden tie version of ME flex are identical height. I use ME flex with Atlas turnouts (tie width, though, is one scale foot wider on the ME than on the Atlas. The ME concrete tie flex is about .020" thicker than the Atlas flex/sectional/turnouts. I shim any adjoining Atlas turnouts with .020" Evergreen styrene strips.

[strummer]

I split the difference on my NKP-ish layout.  Hidden track is ME, visible is Atlas code 55.   Neither is perfect, but I'm not particularly interested in laying my own track.     A few observations:
6.  some of my ME turnouts are vertically bowed in the middle.

I've noticed that on some of my Atlas turnouts as well...

Mark in Oregon

[Mark W]

@Mark W
Is that what you use for PCB ties, FastTracks?  Or do you use Cloverhouse or another source?

Yeah, I get a bulk order from FastTracks every couple years.  I don't have experience with Cloverhouse or other brands, but I'm sure they'll work the same.  Just make sure the height of whichever PCB Tie you use is as close as possible to the height of the plastic ties and you'll be good.

[wazzou]

Yeah, I get a bulk order from FastTracks every couple years.  I don't have experience with Cloverhouse or other brands, but I'm sure they'll work the same.  Just make sure the height of whichever PCB Tie you use is as close as possible to the height of the plastic ties and you'll be good.

Yeah, that was the reason I was asking and you answered my question by telling me the FastTracks are the right height.

[MichaelWinicki]

You are absolutely right - it is a breeze to slide all of the old point rails out and slide the new in. To heck with trying to hinge them! I'll order the filing jigs and PC ties from Fast Tracks tomorrow and get this project on the road.

I dunno Mike, that's a heck of a lot of work for the number of the turnouts you're going to have "convert" just to try avoiding a problem that probably will not happen.

I've got a over 100 Atlas code 55 turnouts installed (now going on 10 years).   I've had about 12 fail with the points losing connectivity... All of which I was able to fix in place with a drop of solder at the joint (on the small copper plate) where the point meets the stock rail.  A five minute fix. 

I did have two turnouts where the points rose a little too high which was fixed quickly using a shim holding the throw-bar down.

My turnouts have seen hundreds of hours of run time and many have been thrown thousands of times... Yeah they could be improved but at what cost?

[strummer]

I've got a over 100 Atlas code 55 turnouts installed (now going on 10 years).   I've had about 12 fail with the points losing connectivity... All of which I was able to fix in place with a drop of solder at the joint (on the small copper plate) where the point meets the stock rail.  A five minute fix. 

Wow, that's encouraging; do you have a close-up picture you could post?

Mark in Oregon

[MichaelWinicki]

Wow, that's encouraging; do you have a close-up picture you could post?

Mark in Oregon

Here you go Mark!



This is before I weathered the joint.

BTW, the area solders more easily if you remove the weathering beforehand. 

I've fixed turnouts that are thrown with Caboose Industry throws, Tortoise machines and Blue-Points... And there's never been an issue with the throw not having enough power to throw the points, even though one of the points is now essentially one-piece from the point to the frog.