Seaboard Air Line E7

[hegstad1]

So I'm modeling an SAL E7.  I have no idea why. They don't quite fit in Missoula in the 1950s.  I just like them.  I'm doing the later "mint green" scheme and I have a couple of questions.  First,  has anyone mixed up a batch of that almost white color?  Second,  I can't find a picture of the rear end. Did they have back up lights?  Horns?  What color was the rear?  Black?  Dark green?  Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Not sure if this helps
http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=392467

I'm guessing if the B units have backup lights, the As do as well.

[hegstad1]

Not sure if this helps
http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=392467

I'm guessing if the B units have backup lights, the As do as well.

That's a good shot. I missed that one somehow. It looks like the end is dark green as well.  Thanks

[Point353]

https://www.alpharail.net/histpix/ncarolina2.htm

[wcfn100]

I'm guessing if the B units have backup lights, the As do as well.

I wouldn't assume that.  I believe the reason for the light on the B unit is because there's a control stand to operate the unit by itself.  There  are a few SAL/SCL shots online that don't show a light on the A unit.  You'll notice the B unit also has a horn which the A unit won't have.


Here's an e7 drawing that shows the stand.



I don't know if this was standard however.

Jason

[nkalanaga]

Many B units had hostler controls, although, as far as I know, no FTs did.  Something to do with their electrical system, I believe.  Once the roads quit running multiple units as a "single-unit" locomotive, and started mixing-and-matching A and B units, they had to be able to move them around the shops and service facilities.

[Cajonpassfan]

Many B units had hostler controls, although, as far as I know, no FTs did.  Something to do with their electrical system, I believe.  Once the roads quit running multiple units as a "single-unit" locomotive, and started mixing-and-matching A and B units, they had to be able to move them around the shops and service facilities.

Not true, ATSF FT's did have hostler controls (and a horn) on their B units, hence the openable fifth porthole on one side; see below.
Otto K.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

The control stand is in the engine room under the radiator? That must have been miserable.

[Point353]

The control stand is in the engine room under the radiator? That must have been miserable.

[nkalanaga]

Cajonpassfan:  I sit corrected.  Thank you!  Did the ATSF also buy their FTs with couplers instead of drawbars between the A and B units? 

As for the location of the E7B control stand, it was (supposed) to only be used for moving around the shop/service area, so the hostler wouldn't be there very long.  Yes, it would be miserable if one had to run the train that way, but would it be any worse than the cab of a steam loco in the summer?

[sirenwerks]

Andrew, you and I have to meet some day. While I love the NP (and GN and SP&S), if I had stayed on the East Coast, I had committed to modeling the SAL just before I got the job offer in Portland. It was that model what you know thing, but thank goodness I moved...

[Cajonpassfan]

Cajonpassfan:  I sit corrected.  Thank you!  Did the ATSF also buy their FTs with couplers instead of drawbars between the A and B units? 

     Yes, they did, first road to do so, in large part due to union agreements as to how many units constituted a "locomotive". Thus the early ABBB FT configurations...

As for the location of the E7B control stand, it was (supposed) to only be used for moving around the shop/service area, so the hostler wouldn't be there very long.  Yes, it would be miserable if one had to run the train that way, but would it be any worse than the cab of a steam loco in the summer?

     Same purpose on the ATSF, hostling independent, coupler equipped B units around.
Otto K.

     

[hegstad1]

Finished the SAL E7.  Old disintegrating decals are the worst btw.   Now I might have to find a few cars to pull behind it.

[thomasjmdavis]

Andrew,

Loco looks great.

Old disintegrating decals are the worst btw.

I recently had brand new ones disintegrate.  That's even worse.  And worse beyond that is the recent habit of decal manufacturers to put minimal decals on a sheet- no spares- so if you make one mistake or have one single decal break up or otherwise fail, you have to buy another sheet.

[peteski]

Couple of easy fixes for shattered decals:

1. Brush-paint several coats of Microscale Liquid Decal film, then cut the individual decal images out of the sheet.  The decal film creates a new solid clear layer.

2. Airbrush a wet coat of lacquer thinner over the entire decal sheet (wet coat is important). I melts the cracked film back together.

Method 2 is a bit more risky, but both should work to rejuvenate those old decals.