HO scale Tunnel Motor Preview from the new book

[ednadolski]

Only the Windsor&Newton water solubles; not just any oil.

Have you ever tried the Holbeins?  What did you think of them?

I just picked up a few tubes of the Duo Aqua oils. Supposedly they "melt" with water, which I hope will make some nice scale effects.  But I haven't had the chance to try them out yet.

Ed

[dmidkiff]

I'd be interested to know how you achieved such a fine rust pitting pattern towards the rear of the cab and on the battery boxes. In addition, how do you get color coverage on those pits in one go. I think it would be tough to replicate the same pattern with multiple layers of color.

Doug

[Missaberoad]

Just a bunch of oil paint layers. 

Was the texture simply achieved through oil paint layers? Looks amazing, need a tetanus shot just looking at that visor.

Also how are you sealing your work pieces? do you?

[tom mann]

I'd be interested to know how you achieved such a fine rust pitting pattern towards the rear of the cab and on the battery boxes.

Same as on the trucks.  This doesn't look more than one layer to me, but you can let each layer dry for a day or so and build upon it.

Have you ever tried the Holbeins?  What did you think of them?

No, but in this case cheaper oil paint is probably better. I wouldn't mind trying them but I have a ton of paint already!

You might get the result you're looking for with turpentine, but in my experience you'll just get a nice wash since it'll mix well.

I just did a test and turpentine kind of gives similar results but the effect is finer and uniform - I never noticed it before.  My guess is that the ISO is causing rapid oxidation of the oil and thus pigment clumping.

I've been doing this for years with oil:

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=28592.0

Also how are you sealing your work pieces? do you?

Not usually. I will use dull cote between layers on occasion, but since the end product is all paint, it withstands handling fairly well.

[nuno81291]

Wow the fade on that coil car is outstanding (and the surface rust effect). Jonesing for an airbrush after seeing that. 

[ednadolski]

I have a ton of paint already!

Aha, I would have thought that doing all those 1:29 beasts would have used up a good chunk of your paint supply 

Ed

[tankcar]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ] .               This is a highly modified BLI AC60CW.  Bobby

[peteski]

         This is a highly modified BLI AC60CW.  Bobby

The weathering looks great, but what IMO really sticks out like a sore thumb is those perfectly masked and dead-black rectangular grill areas.  They look too perfect. I really don't have a good answer for what to do to make them look more realistic. Maybe less sharply defined edges? Maybe some gray dry-brushing to soften that deep dark look?  I suck at weathering!   

[GaryHinshaw]

From most viewing angles, these grills look pretty dead flat:

http://www.locophotos.com/PhotoDetails.php?PhotoID=20548  (login required)

I think Bobby has captured it quite nicely, given that the model grills are not open.

[peteski]

Tried to look at the photo you pointed to but I don't have (or want) a login.  Found another photo.



You are right, the openings are sharply defined, but the black still looks a bit too "black" to me.  Just my opinion.

[tankcar]

The older  the engine, the darker the grills become. The 6000 HP 60s were notorious for running rich. The soot was sucked in the radiator intake grills, thus lots of soot on the grills. There's a photo of one that has the entire grill area covered with soot. Thanks for taking time to comment, that's how we learn. BTW, the engine in the proto photo is no longer a 60, you can tell by the number and single stack. UP
gave up on the 6000HP engine and replaced them with the 4400 HP engine and renumbered them.

Bobby

[dmidkiff]

Same as on the trucks.  This doesn't look more than one layer to me, but you can let each layer dry for a day or so and build upon it.

Thanks for sharing Tom. I agree it doesn't look like more than one layer. That was what prompted the second part of my question, how do you manage to get good color coverage with one coat, especially on a darker model?

Doug

[tom mann]

Thanks for sharing Tom. I agree it doesn't look like more than one layer. That was what prompted the second part of my question, how do you manage to get good color coverage with one coat, especially on a darker model?

Doug

So the little rust blisters are one layer, but on top of a light grey glaze (or fade) coat. This lightens the dark SP gray color.  There is a brown/rust was on top of that, and then the rust blisters. Sorry - didn't mean to imply that everything was just one layer.