Playing with HOf or HOn22 or HOn6.5mm HO scale/Z gauge

[Chris333]

After asking about putting steel strips under track for magnets in locos:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=43680.0

I started a small layout in HOf. The "f" is for Feldbahn and Busch makes a line of locos, cars, and track. The locos use a strong magnet that relies on metal in the track. I plan to use Z scale flextrack with every other tie removed. I did the turnouts by hand.

Here is the trackplan. Only 10x30".



These aren't my photos, but is where I got the idea from. They are both O scale layouts:



And here is where I'm at now:


It will represent some sort of sand, clay, or dirt pit and part of a generic processing plant. The metal building on the left is made from parts of this Walther's kit:
https://www.walthers.com/backwoods-locomotive-or-car-shop-kit-9-1-16-x-12-15-16-x-5-3-4-quot-23-x-32-9-x-14-6cm
Just about everything is changed around and really only the roof pieces are being used for my walls.

In the center is a small office/garage/loco service made from a DPM schultz garage kit.

On the right is a loading bin that was made from the bins in Walther's N scale Glacier Gravel.

Waiting on some Atlas Z scale flex track now. More to come. 

[Philip H]

Do you sleep? I count at least 4 layouts in some stage of something and your bug restoration project. Yeash.

[DKS]

Do you sleep?

No, Chris is actually a prototype android. The next model after him will be Data.

[Chris333]

So while it's day 8 for my Whitcomb body sitting in Cleveland. I have since placed an order for some Atlas Z scale flextrack and had it delivered. Track is all down and wired, trains are running.

Where do I cut the expansion gaps? 

[nkalanaga]

I doubt that expansion will be a problem, but, whatever you do, don't cut them over a gap in your metal strips.  If it turns out that expansion IS a problem, having both gaps at the same place would be a headache.

How about just leave the joints unsoldered, and run feeders to each section?  That should give all the movement you'll need, at least in a normal home environment.

[Chris333]

Already solders the joints. Red is the joints and green are the gaps cut so far.

[Chris333]

By some miracle my Shapeways order showed up 14 days after being shipped out.







Before:

After:

[metalworkertom]

Well after your long wait at least the print is much better. These various projects of yours are quite interesting learning a lot just following along. Looking good .

[Lemosteam]

@Chris333 , can you share the SW orientation image of your model?  Been thinking about a plank style kit built in this fashion and I think this shows a vast improvement between the modeling styles.

[peteski]

Looks to me like he had those walls printed flat with the outside surfaces facing up. So, no nasty wax supports to fuzzy up the surface.  Plank style wold still result in fuzzies if there were overhangs.

[Lemosteam]

My meaning of plank meant on plank layer for each part.  Not stacked planks.

Cost goes way up for machine space bed coverage this way.

[wcfn100]

Probably printed just like this.



Just put where you want the best surface or surfaces that have any protruding details facing up or top.

Jason

[Lemosteam]

Yes, I'm wondering if he sprued it up or not- that's an additional $9 right.

[Chris333]

@Chris333 , can you share the SW orientation image of your model?  Been thinking about a plank style kit built in this fashion and I think this shows a vast improvement between the modeling styles.

On the left I drew 2 roofs, one upside down just encase one printed better. Also 2 sets of hood sides.

[wcfn100]

Yes, I'm wondering if he sprued it up or not- that's an additional $9 right.

Well $8 because the first part has to get paid for.

The next trick is to oriented the build lines like on the cab side the most ideal way (if desired), something I haven't tried to do yet, but do have a file that probably has the answer.

Jason