More fun with Proto:87

[ednadolski]

Since it can be nice to do something a little different from time to time,  I took a little break from my N-scale layout construction efforts to play with some of my HO scale and Proto:87 stuff that I have had lying around.  My main takeway from this is that while Proto:87 does require some additional effort, I don't think it's as difficult as some folks might think.  Also, I find it rewarding to upgrade track, wheels, and couplers to a closer representation of the prototype.

I'm directing these efforts toward an Inglenook-style shelf/switching demo diorama-layout that can provide for a bit of informal operation from time to time, as the mood strikes.  This build upon the previous Proto:87 dabbling I have done here: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=30117.msg328737#msg328737

Trackwork is the first target.   I've converted  a couple of Micro Engineering #6 turnouts to P:87 dimensions using the frogs and throwbars from the Proto:87 Stores at www.proto87.com.    Conversion is a matter of gently removing the original parts and installing the new frog and guard rails with a 5-minute epoxy.   The key is to make sure that both routes of the new frog are aligned properly with their respective rails,  otherwise the wheels will jolt/bump as they pass over them.  The alignment has to be checked and adjusted as the epoxy sets -- you get only one shot at it, and if it comes out wrong then the turnout will probably have to be tossed.  Once the frog is set, the guard rails are likewise epoxied into place using the P:87 gauge to ensure the correct dimensions.

Here are some pics of the two turnouts I have done so far:














(Apologies for the T-pins as "switch stands" -- I'll be upgrading these to something more usable as time permits.)


More to follow soon

Ed

[ednadolski]

Here are a few cars converted to the P:87 wheelsets and Sergent couplers, with comparison to NMRA wheelsets.  Conversion was trivial: just get the NWSL Code 64 wheelsets with the proper wheel size and (pointed) axle length, and pop 'em right in in place of the old ones.

(The NWSL wheels are flat on the back, but they are the only game in town as far a P:87 goes.  In most cases they're not too noticeable, you have to look real close to see it.)










In case anyone is curious what those NMRA wheelsets look like next to the P:87 frog:




This Atlas Dash-8 was successfully converted as well.  Again, it was just a matter of a straight swap with the factory wheels.  Just be sure to check the wheel spacing with the P:87 gauge.








I was concerned that the C-C trucks would have geometry problems getting thru the converted #6 turnouts, but they have worked fine so far.   It would be interesting to try to narrow the sideframes to proto width.  There is a lot of room, esp. if I take out the outside-mounted pickup strips and grind the axles flush.   But that would mean fabricating a new pickup mechanism, which would not be trivial. 

Cheers,
Ed

[strummer]

Jeez Ed, that really looks great.

Had considered dabbling in Proto:48 'way back when; decided I wasn't up to the task. Conversion in HO seems very "do-able". For starters, the track gauge is "correct". 

Thanks.

Mark in Oregon

[Birdsong]

It does look good.  I knew about p87 track components, not about NWSL wheels.  I'm to far into P48 to go back to HO though.
John

[ednadolski]

Jeez Ed, that really looks great.

Had considered dabbling in Proto:48 'way back when; decided I wasn't up to the task. Conversion in HO seems very "do-able". For starters, the track gauge is "correct". 

Thanks.

Mark in Oregon

Thanks Mark!   Interestingly, Protocraft does have P:48 flextrack.  You do have to build your own turnouts, but with the available point/frog/guardrail castings it's a relatively straightforward effort.   And a lot has changed recently, for example you can get tieplates and turnout details (plus a lot more) on Shapeways.

However if you want roller bearing trucks then P:87 is easier as it is just a wheelset swap.  And you have far more choice of locos and freight cars (esp. modern era).

BTW, all the track in my little inglenook is held in place with just a few pieces of double-sided carpet tape.   I think it puts to rest the myth that P:87 demands "near-perfect" trackwork in order to run smoothly.   Perhaps that's more essential if you want to run very long trains and/or high speeds.   IMHO it's more important to avoid the problematic geometries, i.e. too-tight curve radii and short turnouts. (The equivalent curvature of a #6 turnout in HO is aroun 48" IIRC.)


Ed

[ednadolski]

It does look good.  I knew about p87 track components, not about NWSL wheels.  I'm to far into P48 to go back to HO though.
John

It's interesting to note some of the trade-offs between P:87 and P:48.   For example, I wouldn't attempt working cut levers in P:87, and for P:48 (and all 1:48 scale) it can be hard to get detail parts and other things that are commonly available in HO.

The one consistency seems to be that steam locos in any Proto:scale would take a lot of work 

Ed

[tom mann]

Looks nice. I agree that the thinness is preferable over the contoured wheel back -  especially seen in those angles.  Really makes you wonder why in this day and age one can’t have both?

[ednadolski]

Really makes you wonder why in this day and age one can’t have both?

Pretty much anything is doable, given sufficient motivation -- i.e., funding.  Presumably NWSL wanted to keep the costs down, and now has an inventory to sell off before it would be feasible to make anything else.  But I doubt there are enough P:87 modelers in existence to support more than a tiny niche market.

Just for grins here is a quick pic of the Protocraft Proto:48 100-ton roller bearing truck:



This is hands-down the best model truck I have ever seen.  In addition to the front/back wheel profiles, the axles have the correct taper, the bearing caps rotate, the springs are correct & functional, and it has the raised foundry markings on the sideframes (zoom in real close to see 'em).  Tracking is incredible and it will roll for an impressive distance with even just a slight push.  The brakes don't actually function, but that too could be made to work, given sufficient motivation (that cost thing, again)

Ed

[JoeD]

nice stuff...still mud wrestling with the street track and switches they sell.  Oye...I gotta change out all my wheel sets and get proto flanges to even move on these things.

Joe