My wishlist for N Scale Santa Fe engines this year

[atsf3751]

BLI has produced the two engines at the top of my wishlist but, unfortunately, the wheels are too far apart for me to use them and tunnel clearance would be very difficult. I would love to have an RSD-15, black with billboard SANTA FE preferred, but I will settle for anything. My credit card would melt from overuse if the other engine appeared, a 3800 class 2-10-2. Santa Fe had a lot of them.

I have looked at modifying existing models, but nothing is close enough for my taste. There is not a good starting point for either engine other than scratch building.

[Cajonpassfan]

I second that, and add the 3751 class as well. BLI makes them with the wide gauge also..
Otto K.

[atsf3751]

I second that, and add the 3751 class as well. BLI makes them with the wide gauge also..
Otto K.

excellent choice, though not at the top of my list because I have a hallmark brass model but a good plastic one would be welcome.

[nscaler711]

2900 series Northerns
CF7s
GP7us
Kato SD75Ms...
Beep?

[GhengisKong]

I'd take the ATSF 3800 2-10-2 just for the kitbash potential.

[wmcbride]

CF7

[gelboy45]

CF7s for me too please.

Gerry

[Englewood]

I'll second the Kato SD75s

[randgust]

I get kind of tired of reminding people, but I do custom version builds of CF7's from my resin and etched brass kits....  or you can even do your own.   
http://www.randgust.com/Finished.htm

Did two of these over Christmas for buyers.   I do them specific to actual unit numbers and year, as so many CF7's were rebuilt a second time with the square cabs, had multiple frames, window plating, etc., etc.

I'd replace my rebuilt Model Power RSD15's if I could find anything that pulls as well as they do.   The Atlas chassis have such poor weight and adhesion it's not worth doing.  If the C630 can only pull half as much as one of my MP rebuilds I'll keep waiting.

I heavily modified a Hallmark 3751 as it couldn't do any more than 15" curves.  It's a honey, now, but I wouldn't wish blinding two inner drivers to fix it on anybody else.

Unfortunately ATSF steam is about as signature as PRR, but I was heartened to find an accurate ATSF cab out on Shapeways.  I've always wanted to do a good 1300 or 3400-class 4-6-2 with all the right details, and other than the occasional Pecos River Brass, nothing really comes close.

[nscaler711]

I get kind of tired of reminding people, but I do custom version builds of CF7's from my resin and etched brass kits....  or you can even do your own.   
http://www.randgust.com/Finished.htm

Did two of these over Christmas for buyers.   I do them specific to actual unit numbers and year, as so many CF7's were rebuilt a second time with the square cabs, had multiple frames, window plating, etc., etc.

I'm sure some of us knew about your kit, but for some of us $260 is too rich for our blood... It is especially for me in N scale...
Don't get me wrong it is a very nice model.... Just can't afford it... and it's not even sound equipped 
I don't posses the skills in building one either so that puts it out of sight.
For people that are so inclined to build their own $50 isn't so bad for the kit, but you'd still have to find and modify a GP7/9/15 for a reasonable price...

[randgust]

I'm seeing street prices of as low as $70 for a 'new' Atlas phase 1 and $100 for a factory DCC equipped one, which is really pretty good.  I picked up a handful of Classics a couple years ago so I could do some RTR's on request, but truth is that I've done these so many different ways now I've lost track.  Most of my customers already have an Atlas GP7 handy, or drop-ship one from their favorite e-tailer.  Here's what I've done...
* Kit only
* No mechanism built-up (you supply your own):
- Body shell assembled with no details
- body shell drilled and primed
- body shell painted with details installed - custom decals made or ATSF versions
- body shell painted, decaled & finished
* With mechanism (older Atlas classic or current DCC version)
- all the above options

Everybody has their own best skill sets and I try to fit into what people need.  But yeah, you want me to supply a RTR mechanism, the kit, assemble the kit, custom finish and paint it specific to a unit/year it takes me about three weeks.   The biggest hassle on these is that you really, really, can't finish paint these with all the etched brass details already installed - working around all the grabs and handrails (particularly on the nose) is just impossible.  So I've been experimenting (successfully) with semi-finished and predrilled options.

I wanted people to be able to do this for around $150 total and if you do the kit yourself that's about what you'll have into it.   I'm not a retailer and have to pay full street price too, so I encourage people to use their own stuff.

And for those real die-hards, I've even done this to GP15 chassis (brutal conversion and highly UN-recommended) and one conversion of a Bachmann GP7 (not too bad, but the long hood takes much more work).

It's really a drop-on on the current Atlas chassis, if you can fit sound it a stock one it should fit here.   The only 'trick' I pull is to reverse it, so that the fuel tank and battery box casting are correctly oriented to the cab.  That means relocating the headlight board.  But no frame hacking at all.

[wmcbride]

I as happy to see that the handrails are all one piece. I couldn't imagine soldering stanchions to handrails. Not my skill set right now.

[Atsf222]

Kato sd75's would be killer but I won't hold my breath

[jagged ben]

GP40X

Though I'll second the RSD-15, in pinstripe.

[brokemoto]

I do not model All Tramps Sent Free, but if someone did one of its 2-6-2s (or a Q 2-6-2), I would buy two and letter them for my non-historic.  I do not know why I like that wheel arrangement, but I do.