New 3D Printing Technology for N scale trains, need opinions

[Lemosteam]

That's why we left SW, to set ourselves apart from what everyone else is doing. Our new vendor does all the post processing of the parts as well, so all our customs have to do is some light sanding and panting. No bestine required anymore!

I assume this is the reason you don't want to share the website of the place?

[wcfn100]

When do you expect to have sample pictures posted to the website? 

Jason

 

[SandyEggoJake]

@orionfield

If not 3DS multijet : FUD/FXD, whose tech & material are you running at outoftheboxmodels.com ?

[SandyEggoJake]

Never mind.... found the j750 compatibility chart.  And a cool vid...

http://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/j750

[orionfield]

When do you expect to have sample pictures posted to the website? 

Jason

I hope to have something either this week or next week. I was planning on testing the process on one of my NE-12's, but I need to modify the CAD model before hand, so that will add some time.  Thinking of doing one of Modified BN versions, with some fading on parts of the paint and some rust here and there.

[Maletrain]

That j750 link says that it can print layers "as fine as 0.014 mm."  That is about 0.0005"!  That is about than 3/32 scale inch in N scale!

But, that is layer thickness, which may not be the same as horizontal dot size.  Does anybody know what the horizontal resolution is for this model printer?

[nkalanaga]

Orionfield:  I'd love to have three spans of the MILW Beverly, WA bridge, but no, I don't need anything for my layout.

If you have, or can find, a copy of Paul Mallery's "Bridge & Trestle Handbook" (mine is the 1976 edition), he has some very detailed bridge diagrams.  In particular, there are several truss bridges with dimensions and cross section diagrams for almost every part.  How about a 150' pin-connected Pratt through truss, from the NP, 1900, with an E-50 rating?  Or a 160' riveted Warren "heavy" truss, no rating given, 1920?  In between, a riveted Pratt from the KCM&O, E-45, 1907.

Probably too big to print, or for most layouts, would be the 518' pin-connected Whipple truss!

These are all through single track through truss designs, but he also has deck truss and double track, as well as almost every other type of bridge imaginable, at least that existed in the late 60s.  I have no idea what's in the newer editions of the book.

[thomasjmdavis]

Over on the recent "T gauge" thread, there is a video of a pretty impressive 3D printed bridge- if it can be done in 1/450, I would think it could be done in N:

(post by @Mark W about 3/4 down the page)


https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=43149.0

[orionfield]

Orionfield:  I'd love to have three spans of the MILW Beverly, WA bridge, but no, I don't need anything for my layout.

If you have, or can find, a copy of Paul Mallery's "Bridge & Trestle Handbook" (mine is the 1976 edition), he has some very detailed bridge diagrams.  In particular, there are several truss bridges with dimensions and cross section diagrams for almost every part.  How about a 150' pin-connected Pratt through truss, from the NP, 1900, with an E-50 rating?  Or a 160' riveted Warren "heavy" truss, no rating given, 1920?  In between, a riveted Pratt from the KCM&O, E-45, 1907.

Probably too big to print, or for most layouts, would be the 518' pin-connected Whipple truss!

These are all through single track through truss designs, but he also has deck truss and double track, as well as almost every other type of bridge imaginable, at least that existed in the late 60s.  I have no idea what's in the newer editions of the book.

I found the book on Amazon, I'll order it tonight. Too big to print is pretty relative, I have access to a printer that can print a life size T-Rex Skull, but the detail isn't as great as what we use for the N scale model kits.

One of the biggest announcements I can safely make after having a second meeting with my 3D printing vendor is that none of our products will require any effort from our customers other than some light sanding. No more messing around with Bestine!

[nkalanaga]

In that case, a 518 ft through-truss bridge might actually find a market.  That would allow 19 ft, almost 1.5 inches, for an abutment at each end, and 480 ft clear span, or three feet in N scale.  How about a lift-out entry bridge that both looks like a bridge AND would help keep derailed trains off the floor?

Of course, that depends on how dimensionally stable the material is, in long pieces, and how sold the benchwork is at either end, but as many lift-outs as there are, using simple boards, it might sell a few.

[JMaurer1]

I'll take a life sized T rex skull...

[BCR751]

Personally I'm not quite ready for 3D-printed models using colored resin for body color and decoration.  What about silver and gold colors (if that was what's needed for decoration or markings)?  Also, how are the various colors printed? Small dots of CYMK resins (like the way standard CYMK printers work)?  Would that dot pattern be visible in close-up photos?

For some reason all I can think of when visualizing this is  Legos.  I realize that these will be much finer models, but that is how my mid works.  But if these 3D printers can produce smooth enough surface that no additional sanding/smoothign is needed I woudl be interested (and I would still paint/decorate them myself).

+1

Doug

[orionfield]

In that case, a 518 ft through-truss bridge might actually find a market.  That would allow 19 ft, almost 1.5 inches, for an abutment at each end, and 480 ft clear span, or three feet in N scale.  How about a lift-out entry bridge that both looks like a bridge AND would help keep derailed trains off the floor?

Of course, that depends on how dimensionally stable the material is, in long pieces, and how sold the benchwork is at either end, but as many lift-outs as there are, using simple boards, it might sell a few.

I am going to discuss it with my engineers to see what we can make happen.

[DKS]

Personally I'm not quite ready for 3D-printed models using colored resin for body color and decoration.  What about silver and gold colors (if that was what's needed for decoration or markings)?  Also, how are the various colors printed? Small dots of CYMK resins (like the way standard CYMK printers work)?  Would that dot pattern be visible in close-up photos?

For some reason all I can think of when visualizing this is  Legos.  I realize that these will be much finer models, but that is how my mid works.  But if these 3D printers can produce smooth enough surface that no additional sanding/smoothign is needed I woudl be interested (and I would still paint/decorate them myself).

For me, the problem I envision is that of semi-translucency. To my eye, colored plastics always look like colored plastics, and not painted metal/wood/whatever. I always avoid using anything made from colored plastic because of this; I'll always apply paint or some other finishing effect to kill the colored-plastic look.

Which leads me to wonder what these colored-3D-printed products will look like. I feel as though 3D-printing has become the darling of the model railroad world, in some way, and while I do see plenty of advantages, I also see as many issues.

[wcfn100]

For me, the problem I envision is that of semi-translucency. To my eye, colored plastics always look like colored plastics, and not painted metal/wood/whatever. I always avoid using anything made from colored plastic because of this; I'll always apply paint or some other finishing effect to kill the colored-plastic look.

This.  Colored resins aren't going to replace tradition painting and lettering, at least not in my life time.

and while I do see plenty of advantages, I also see as many issues.

And one of the issues is that we have to piggyback off of other uses be it jewelry making or dental implants or whatever.  It would be interesting to see what sort of printer could be made with just model trains in mind.

Jason