.3mm brass vs. .25mm stainless for etched handrails.

[wcfn100]

I know that apples to apples the stainless is more durable, but the minimum width you can etch varies quite a bit between materials.  I'm drawing some handrails wanting to use a .4mm width.  Ideally I'd like to just use .4mm stainless, but the minimum width on that is .6mm.  To get a .4mm width, I need to choose between .3mm brass or .25mm stainless.

Is the stainless still much better even if it's 15%+ thinner?


Jason

[wazzou]

Will the stanchions be integral to the handrails?  If not, I'd go brass just for the sake of soldering ease.

[Lemosteam]

Or phosphor bronze for the same reason mentioned above.  The PB material is very resilient, similar to stainless, but it will deform if impacted beyond elasticity.

[wcfn100]

Ah, good point.  Yes the stanchions and hand rail are one piece.  No soldering.

Jason

[ednadolski]

I wouldn't go with brass.  I've seen brass handrails on kits that were so delicate it was very hard to remove them from the fret without bending them (and they still had enough of a 'flat' look to them).

Ed

[wcfn100]

So I guess i'll plan on trying the .25mm stainless.

Here's the file so far:



It's for the Bachmann 70 tonner to give it a MU walkover.  I'm going to work on a more correct hood as well.  Either a etched door overlay or a new 3D printed hood as the Bachmann model never existed as configured.

Jason

[peteski]

I'm not a big fan of flat photoetched handrails in N scale, but if one doesn't want to solder wire handrails, that is really the only viable option.

[wcfn100]

I'm not a big fan of flat photoetched handrails in N scale, but if one doesn't want to solder wire handrails, that is really the only viable option.

I'm not really either, but because of all the curves and the in-between piece fitting, etching will yield far better and more consistent results for me.

Plus I'm doing three locomotives.

Jason

[Chris333]

I did etched on my HH660 and a NW2 (that I never finished) Once you paint them they look fine.

[wcfn100]

I did etched on my HH660 and a NW2 (that I never finished) Once you paint them they look fine.

Good to know Chris.  Now I just need to figure out what else I can etch out of .25 stainless to fill out the sheet. 


Jason

[cjm413]

Good to know Chris.  Now I just need to figure out what else I can etch out of .25 stainless to fill out the sheet. 


Jason

NW2

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=108347

[Chris333]

Erie NW's had full length handrails, but I later found a photo of one from 1948 (the year I model) and Erie hadn't installed the full length handrails yet. 

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/el/loco/erie0420lbC.jpg

[bbussey]

I use .125mm stainless and make the handrails .125mm wide. Paint increases the overall thickness and the stainless is strong enough to withstand handling. The Keyser Valley caboose has .125mm stainless grabs.

[peteski]

I use .125mm stainless and make the handrails .125mm wide. Paint increases the overall thickness and the stainless is strong enough to withstand handling. The Keyser Valley caboose has .125mm stainless grabs.

That sounds like a good solution. How much width do you add to compensate for over-etching? Another .125mm overall?

[Chris333]

Modeling these?
http://www.railarchive.net/vintagediesel/sjlc49-51.htm