DELUXE MATERIALS ????

[Maletrain]

I think that bag of #12 lead birdshot is the best option.  It pours well, and the lead is gong to be contained when it is encased in epoxy. And, it is sure a lot cheaper than buying exotic materials at hobby prices.

Lead is not really as dangerous as OSHA, EPA and the "State of California" try to make it out to be.  Sure, if you ingest a lot of it, it will seriously affect your body and brain.  But, washing your hands after touching it is sufficient for safety.  Of course, if you are melting it or doing something that makes lead dust fly around so it can get into your lungs, that is a different matter.  But, handling lead shot is not a problem so long as you don't let it get loose and get into your food. 

[peteski]

I played with unpainted lead-toy-solders as a kid and I'm still around (although it my explain my strange personality).     Per Ed Nadolski the thing to worry about is the lead particles when Lead is machined/filed.  I cut my lead sheet (for train weights) with a box cutter.

[Chris333]

Can you measure afew for an average diameter?  Looks like all kinds of shapes.

I measured and they were small    I got about .033" for small ones and .038" for biggies.

Oh yeah they are magnetic so must be some iron in there.

[Lemosteam]

Wow, thanks Chris, that is small!

[peteski]

I measured and they were small    I got about .033" for small ones and .038" for biggies.

Oh yeah they are magnetic so must be some iron in there.

If these are iron then there is possibility that if these are not tightly sealed in the model, ambient moisture in the air will cause them to rust. Rust takes up more volume than the original metal so there is a chance that the ballast will expand and distort the model housing them.

[Chris333]

Yeah some people think this stuff is great. I just bought it to pour into the bottom of some shapeways hoppers. Flooded it with ACC. No use wasting tungsten where it isn't needed.

[nkalanaga]

I'll agree that solid lead isn't that dangerous.  Lead fumes or dust can be, but solid lead is nonsoluble in water.  Here's an excerpt from the Wikipedia entry on Lead Poisoning:

"Tetraethyllead, which was a gasoline additive and is still used in fuels such as aviation fuel, passes through the skin; however inorganic lead found in paint, food, and most lead-containing consumer products is only minimally absorbed through the skin.[28] The main sources of absorption of inorganic lead are from ingestion and inhalation.[27] In adults, about 35–40% of inhaled lead dust is deposited in the lungs, and about 95% of that goes into the bloodstream.[27] Of ingested inorganic lead, about 15% is absorbed, but this percentage is higher in children, pregnant women, and people with deficiencies of calcium, zinc, or iron.[21] Infants may absorb about 50% of ingested lead, but little is known about absorption rates in children.[136]"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead_poisoning

Washing your hands, and not grinding, filing, or sanding the lead, should keep you safe.

[nickelplate759]

Speaking of which - I just noticed that the solder I've been using for wiring my track (and DCC decoders) is 60/40 Tin/Lead.       I'm wondering if I should switch, and if so to what?

Or should I just be careful to wash up and not eat my track and wiring?

[peteski]

Speaking of which - I just noticed that the solder I've been using for wiring my track (and DCC decoders) is 60/40 Tin/Lead.       I'm wondering if I should switch, and if so to what?

Or should I just be careful to wash up and not eat my track and wiring?

I wouldn't worry about it. 60/40 (actually eutectic 63/37) is the best solder you can use for your hobbies. It has been the standard type of solder used on all electronic circuits for many decades until the RoHS directive was implemented in in 2003 mainly to have less lead going into the landfills (from disposed electronic equipment).  See https://www.google.com/search?q=rohs&oq=rohs

The 60/30 solder is super-easy to use and it produces shiny solder joints (when properly used) which are an excellent indication of good joint and it has a fairly low melting temperature. The lead-free solders that replaced it are pain in the a$$$ to deal with. They have higher melting temperature and they aren't eutectic which means they have a semi-liquid phase which is a recipe for bad solder joints. Also even the good solder joints have a dull surface finish so there  is not easy way to tell if the joint is good.

As I said, for hobby used and hand-soldering the 60/40 or 63/37 solder is hard to beat.  It is still generally available (not yet banned).    If you look at the factory solder joints  on your decoders, you will notice that all the solder joints look dull (because, due to RoHS, they use lead-free solders in production).

I was an electronic technician for over 10 years and back then exclusively used the 63/37 solder on a daily basis. I still use that solder for my hobbies.  Like you said, with good hygiene and not eating the solder and not inhaling fumes should make it safe to use.  I usually have a fan blowing over the work area to dissipate the fumes.

[robert3985]

I'm betting them little balls ain't steel.  I'm betting them little balls is iron   

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Missaberoad]

I'm betting them little balls ain't steel.  I'm betting them little balls is iron   

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

Now you're just splitting hairs carbon atoms 

[Lemosteam]

So after contacting the rep at Midway for the #12 lead shot it appears that small quantities would be better and much cheaper purchased in shotgun shells and extracted from there, on a pound for pound basis.

Yeah well no one sells the shells with #12 shot in them.

Anybody interested in 1 or 1/2 pound packages if I buy a 10 pound bag?

[Santa Fe Guy]

I have just used some of the DM liquid Gravity to add some weight to my new HOn3 kits.
It is so easy to just pour the stuff in till it gets to the height you want.
To seal it in I just flooded it with ACC.
Made an issue go away.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
I recommend it for tight spaces.
Rod.

[MK]

You can also use slow set epoxy or finishing epoxy and fill it level for places where you want to hide them.  Just paint after curing.

[Lemosteam]

I have just used some of the DM liquid Gravity to add some weight to my new HOn3 kits.
It is so easy to just pour the stuff in till it gets to the height you want.
To seal it in I just flooded it with ACC.
Made an issue go away.
(Attachment Link)
I recommend it for tight spaces.
Rod.

Nice, Rod.  What ACC did you use?  Did you buy their super thin?