Does anyone make this detail part in N scale?

[coosvalley]

I am wondering if anyone knows if this part is, or has been made in N scale. These are numberboards used on Boston and Maine and Southern Pacific EMD first generation switchers...:

[sd45elect2000]

I used to get them from JnJ trains. They had several different sizes.

Randy

[coosvalley]

I used to get them from JnJ trains. They had several different sizes.

Randy

Can you find it on this page? I cannot...

http://users.dwx.com/~jnjtrains/products.htm#Details

[Chris333]

They look like simple Shapeways parts.

[bman]

You might try Minitures by Eric.  There are a couple of types on this page.  Not sure if they are an exact match though.  Sadly there is no photo of the one style. 

https://miniatures-by-eric.myshopify.com/collections/n-scale-parts-l-to-w?page=1

[coosvalley]

They look like simple Shapeways parts.

I think you're right, as it appears that the part is not made by either JnJ or MbyE.

Maybe one of our in house designers would like to take a stab at these....(fingers crossed)

[coosvalley]

OK gang, I've got a shapeways designer willing to take a crack at these. Now what I need to find is the measurements for it, and how big they will need to be to fit an Arnold SW1...Soooo, if anybody can point me in the right direction, that would be a huge help!

[peteski]

Maybe start with the dimensions of a standard number board, then extrapolate or estimate the other dimensions?

[coosvalley]

I assume the "glass" is standard EMD first Gen size, like on GP7s and 9s. I did some digging and may have found someone who owns a real set, so that might make this go much smoother!

[peteski]

I assume the "glass" is standard EMD first Gen size, like on GP7s and 9s. I did some digging and may have found someone who owns a real set, so that might make this go much smoother!

That is what I was thinking - standard glass used on other Diesels. But if you have means to get the actual dimensions then that will make things much easier.

[coosvalley]

The legs are the problem spot. To make them out of brass(suggested by the designer), or to make them out of FXD and beef them up?

[peteski]

The legs are the problem spot. To make them out of brass(suggested by the designer), or to make them out of FXD and beef them up?

The "legs" look to be just extended end sheet metal.  If you want it close to scale  then FUD or FXD would probably be too thick to begin with. Beefing it up with some metal would make them even thicker.  Pieces of brass sheet (probably 0.005" thick) would be the sturdiest solution. Make them longer than needed, make holes in the shell and glue them in.  Or as an alternative extend the center of the bottom of the housing to touch the shell and affix the assembly to the shell using the extended bottom.  I don't think that in N scale you'll miss the see-through opening under the unit.

[coosvalley]

  I don't think that in N scale you'll miss the see-through opening under the unit.

I'll have to go ahead and disagree with ya there.....

I wouldn't see the point of creating a "detail part" if we didn't get that part right. I mean, I could just slap a box on there and say it's right, and be done with it, no need for anyone to "design" it. IMHO, it's what makes these unique, and the look that it "stands alone" is sorta what makes me like them....
 I wonder if the brass "legs" could just be inserted into the bottom of a FUD box?

One thing the designer asked for is the radius of the hood(of the model) where it would attach....I'm not sure I can get that measurement

[peteski]

I'll have to go ahead and disagree with ya there.....

I wouldn't see the point of creating a "detail part" if we didn't get that part right. I mean, I could just slap a box on there and say it's right, and be done with it, no need for anyone to "design" it. IMHO, it's what makes these unique, and the look that it "stands alone" is sorta what makes me like them....
 I wonder if the brass "legs" could just be inserted into the bottom of a FUD box?

But like I said, the "legs" are the actual end walls, so there is nothing to install on the bottom (if you want to make it realistic). Unless you are thinking of making the legs in a shape of a upside down "U" (both legs and the bottom of the box) and then glue the box to that "U". Or you might also be able to get away with pinning the entire box using some brass rod (like 0.015" or 0.020"). That way most of the "daylight" under the number board box would show.

One thing the designer asked for is the radius of the hood(of the model) where it would attach....I'm not sure I can get that measurement

That does seem tough to do. Maybe just lend the designer a spare RS-3 shell (if you have one). That way he can figure it out himself. 

[coosvalley]

I did envision an upside down u shaped piece of brass, and the FUD box attaches to that as well, and it would probably work best too..

 Maybe just lend the designer a spare RS-3 shell

RS-3?..This is for the Arnold SW-1s..